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Ya, I think it might do that (removing hood and front bumper cover). I'm removing the drivetrain anyways to make it easier to change my fuel pump. So once the drivetrain is removed, I believe I can pull the engine without having to lower the front crossmember, so it should be straight forward.
I've never tried to pull the motor without dropping the cross member but I feel like that's not possible. You don't have to remove it completely, though. You can lower the front and let it hang off the back bolts. You will need to unbolt the suspension from the body and the shocks from the control arms.
I've never tried to pull the motor without dropping the cross member but I feel like that's not possible. You don't have to remove it completely, though. You can lower the front and let it hang off the back bolts. You will need to unbolt the suspension from the body and the shocks from the control arms.
Once the drivetrain is out, the engine can be put on a hoist, and the front x- can be dropped for clearance. If you remove the I/M, it may clear without dropping the crossmember but you may run into rack issues unless you can lift the engine up really high and angle it out fo the way. The steering rack is VERY close to the balancer. I suggest buying an trans jack, supporting the x, putting a cherry picker on the engine, and while the picker holds the engine, drop the crossmember (and upper A-arms). Very easy to do - 8 a arm bolts and 4 crossmember bolts, IIRC.
I am wondering also when pulling engine from the top you loosen the transmission cross member bolts and take you trans jack and lift the torque tube up a little (I think it goes up an inch or so before it hits the floor) to help with the install angle to miss the rack etc.
Im looking to buy a set of Quick Jacks, can you explain what happened to make you feel not confident with them?
Neighbor had his Ford Maverick pick-up, on QJ's.
When he was lowering, the near side jack came down quickly, causing the vehicle to "tilt." This tilt caused the opposite side jack to "kick out" and hit his show car (1966 Nova.) in the door/rocker areas. So, ya can't be on the side of ur car when these come down, or you might eat a QJ! He was working at the wheel/brake when it came down. You can't easily tell that the vehicle is tilted from that plane of vision.
Until QJ has this independent lift/lower thing ironed out, I wouldn't use them. I still use floor jacks and stands, when I do tire/wheel/brake/suspension work.
Neighbor had his Ford Maverick pick-up, on QJ's.
When he was lowering, the near side jack came down quickly, causing the vehicle to "tilt." This tilt caused the opposite side jack to "kick out" and hit his show car (1966 Nova.) in the door/rocker areas. So, ya can't be on the side of ur car when these come down, or you might eat a QJ! He was working at the wheel/brake when it came down. You can't easily tell that the vehicle is tilted from that plane of vision.
Until QJ has this independent lift/lower thing ironed out, I wouldn't use them. I still use floor jacks and stands, when I do tire/wheel/brake/suspension work.
that is my concern with them as well. wish they were connected together.
Also: was both locking arms "unlocked" before he started lowering the vehicle?
*** does each side have its own line? wonder if you could introduce a "Y" to the lines so they would equalize pressure? ***
Neighbor had his Ford Maverick pick-up, on QJ's.
When he was lowering, the near side jack came down quickly, causing the vehicle to "tilt." This tilt caused the opposite side jack to "kick out" and hit his show car (1966 Nova.) in the door/rocker areas. So, ya can't be on the side of ur car when these come down, or you might eat a QJ! He was working at the wheel/brake when it came down. You can't easily tell that the vehicle is tilted from that plane of vision.
Until QJ has this independent lift/lower thing ironed out, I wouldn't use them. I still use floor jacks and stands, when I do tire/wheel/brake/suspension work.
Why was he lowering the car while working at the wheel/ brake?