When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Has anyone within this forum done abs and traction control delete. I have several questions on removing the harness. I am also deleting airbags. Looking for someone who has worked with this to answer some questions.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by racer151; Apr 12, 2020 at 04:57 PM.
And once you take the ABS controller off the CAN bus you will have a constant BRAKE light (same light as ebrake) on the IPC. The brakes will work but feel spongy. This feel will be intermittent as sometimes they will feel nice and hard (like when you pump them up after a burn out on the way to the staging lights, but at the end of the run they will feel spongy again, like they need to be bled). Also, once off the bus it will permanently turn off traction control and display errors in the DIC for both during startup.
As for the airbags, you can delete/remove all of them (plus the controller behind the center stack). You will constantly have a CES light on the IPC. Nothing detrimental from the ECM.
The line lock won't help (outside of doing burnouts ). I haven't run a proportioning valve so can't say. I've tried bleeding till blue in the face (both gravity and pressure) no bueno.. but ymmv. Outside of going with manual brakes..I haven't found any.
I am removing mine and looking into the Finish Line kit with proportioning valve
i know this is like the "did you turn it off and on again?" but the only time i've ever felt spongy brakes on any vehicle was air in the lines or crappy rubber hoses...
i upgraded to ss brake lines on both my z06 and zr1 and both have felt firm and responsive... on the track and on the street....
If you delete the ABS, you need to loop the CAN wires in the harness.
^ This, assuming its stock ecm.
Originally Posted by bmfvette
And once you take the ABS controller off the CAN bus you will have a constant BRAKE light (same light as ebrake) on the IPC. The brakes will work but feel spongy. This feel will be intermittent as sometimes they will feel nice and hard (like when you pump them up after a burn out on the way to the staging lights, but at the end of the run they will feel spongy again, like they need to be bled). Also, once off the bus it will permanently turn off traction control and display errors in the DIC for both during startup.
As for the airbags, you can delete/remove all of them (plus the controller behind the center stack). You will constantly have a CES light on the IPC. Nothing detrimental from the ECM.
I removed the ABS (not only taking it off the canbus but completely removed it from the vehicle) and did not have spongy brakes, if anything they felt better. I tee'd the lines coming off the master down by the steering rack. I later converted to manual brakes with a Strange master and Wilwood brakes all around.
Agree on airbags, I removed everything traction control, ABS, power steering, HVAC, etc... I was down to 2,300lbs (with twin turbos) before I started on the cage.
I have a narrow body C6, base model, LS2 car which we bought bone stock earlier this year (have owned three C6s), shown below. We have added the Z51 brakes and track pads to it, some 19x10" wheels and 275/35/19 Hankook RS-4 tires to it, plus a seat. Otherwise stock. Due to the typical "ice mode" issues these cars can see, plus some added rear brake locking particular to this car/package I have seen on track (plus another driver), we're swapping the ABS from GM to Ford (bracket and Ford ABS brick shown below). But the first step is removing the GM ABS...
We have done this Ford ABS swap on a C5 (the main owner at HPR's car, below) and it worked VERY well (best braking Corvette I've ever driven, autocross or track), but was not an easy swap - since we had to add Ford speed sensors + reluctor rings to that car, on top of the plumbing and wiring changes.
Every time I drive this C5 again I am reminded how good these cars can stop, so we're pushing forward with this same ABS swap on our C6.
But as some of you have noted, the C6 won't even start (using the factory ECM + body control modules) with the factory ABS brick unplugged...
One of the first steps in our Ford ABS upgrade was to remove the GM ABS unit. We did that and... the engine wouldn't start. Just gives a blank screen. We looked around, found this thread, and plugged the brick back in and it started. But that's not a long term fix.
We found this ABS hydraulic delete kit from "Finishing Lines" and figured they would know the exact wiring fix (that some here alluded to). After emailing them they replied with some instructions and this pic...
Looking at the wiring harness for the C6, we noted the 4 CAN wires... two CAN high and two CAN low. You can cut the harness and just twist them together like they do.
Instead, since we want to re-use the power from the GM ABS harness and didn't want to hack up anything needlessly (we want to make this ABS swap reversible if something goes wacky), we made jumpers. The C6 ABS connector layout above shows where they go.
The jumpers are simple copper solid wire shown above. We did that, and with the GM ABS removed the engine fired right up.
So our C6 has no functioning ABS at the moment, and the GM ABS brick removed, which is one step forward for our ABS swap. Just drove the car and it locks the rear tires painfully easy, but that just verified that the stock front-to-rear brake balance was as bad as I had thought. Driving this car on track (4 tests, various brakes / pads / tires) has been a bit of a chore, and it always wants to lock the tires (except when it had 245/275 OEM sizes with low grip 300 treadware and parts store brake pads).
We will wire up the Ford ABS soon and then get back to track testing this narrow body turd.
And before someone narcs on me for posting WaTeRmArKeD pictures, I'm also an owner at HorsePower Research - which is a paying supporting vendor here. And I'm not trying to sell anything, or pretend to be a "corvette shop" - we are not. Just sharing what we have learned from this thread, other vendors, and a little experimentation based on that. I would rather document the harness jumpers here than on social media, where it will be gone and forgotten in a day...
Thanks for the guidance, and hope these pictures help!
Terry @ HPR (and Vorshlag)
The C6 EBCM system is not that bad, its just that its not programmed for the tires that you want to run the car/the way you want it to work instead.
With TIS2000, there are ways to trick the program into programming another model's firmware in to the EBCM to change the EBCM values to a degree, or you can run after market programs to rework the firmware in the EBCM with the perfect desired perimeters/biasing for your needs instead.
I have a narrow body C6, base model, LS2 car which we bought bone stock earlier this year (have owned three C6s), shown below. We have added the Z51 brakes and track pads to it, some 19x10" wheels and 275/35/19 Hankook RS-4 tires to it, plus a seat. Otherwise stock. Due to the typical "ice mode" issues these cars can see, plus some added rear brake locking particular to this car/package I have seen on track (plus another driver), we're swapping the ABS from GM to Ford (bracket and Ford ABS brick shown below). But the first step is removing the GM ABS...
We have done this Ford ABS swap on a C5 (the main owner at HPR's car, below) and it worked VERY well (best braking Corvette I've ever driven, autocross or track), but was not an easy swap - since we had to add Ford speed sensors + reluctor rings to that car, on top of the plumbing and wiring changes.
Every time I drive this C5 again I am reminded how good these cars can stop, so we're pushing forward with this same ABS swap on our C6.
But as some of you have noted, the C6 won't even start (using the factory ECM + body control modules) with the factory ABS brick unplugged...
One of the first steps in our Ford ABS upgrade was to remove the GM ABS unit. We did that and... the engine wouldn't start. Just gives a blank screen. We looked around, found this thread, and plugged the brick back in and it started. But that's not a long term fix.
We found this ABS hydraulic delete kit from "Finishing Lines" and figured they would know the exact wiring fix (that some here alluded to). After emailing them they replied with some instructions and this pic...
Looking at the wiring harness for the C6, we noted the 4 CAN wires... two CAN high and two CAN low. You can cut the harness and just twist them together like they do.
Instead, since we want to re-use the power from the GM ABS harness and didn't want to hack up anything needlessly (we want to make this ABS swap reversible if something goes wacky), we made jumpers. The C6 ABS connector layout above shows where they go.
The jumpers are simple copper solid wire shown above. We did that, and with the GM ABS removed the engine fired right up.
So our C6 has no functioning ABS at the moment, and the GM ABS brick removed, which is one step forward for our ABS swap. Just drove the car and it locks the rear tires painfully easy, but that just verified that the stock front-to-rear brake balance was as bad as I had thought. Driving this car on track (4 tests, various brakes / pads / tires) has been a bit of a chore, and it always wants to lock the tires (except when it had 245/275 OEM sizes with low grip 300 treadware and parts store brake pads).
We will wire up the Ford ABS soon and then get back to track testing this narrow body turd.
And before someone narcs on me for posting WaTeRmArKeD pictures, I'm also an owner at HorsePower Research - which is a paying supporting vendor here. And I'm not trying to sell anything, or pretend to be a "corvette shop" - we are not. Just sharing what we have learned from this thread, other vendors, and a little experimentation based on that. I would rather document the harness jumpers here than on social media, where it will be gone and forgotten in a day...
Thanks for the guidance, and hope these pictures help!
Terry @ HPR (and Vorshlag)
Thank you for the solid info. I didn't want to hack up my wires either.
2006 C6 Z06 Brake booster, Anti lock system and instrument cluster delete
Good Morning Gentleman,
we are working on our race Corvette to remove all necessary wiring. We have installed a race ECu dash system and the question is can we just unplug the original gauges? Will the engine fire again? We have removed the brake booster and installed a twin brake cylinder system with a balance bar. We want to get rid of the ABS module. Anyone knows how to go on with the wiring?
Peter
ABS delete
). I haven't run a proportioning valve so can't say. I've tried bleeding till blue in the face (both gravity and pressure) no bueno.. but ymmv. Outside of going with manual brakes..I haven't found any.
