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Coolant vanishing

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Old Apr 29, 2020 | 02:13 PM
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Default Coolant vanishing

I drove my car about a couple of weeks ago for a short while. I always pop the hood and give it a once over before shutting it down. A few days later, I noticed coolant puddling on the floor on the passenger side. i removed my blower so that I could get a better look at the thermostat housing. It seemed dry. I found that on the driver's side, the coolant had vanished from the reservoir and was empty. I found traces of old coolant (white) streaks near the overflow tube as if it had dripped down from there and on the front of my black Mezeire water pump. I remove the cap, and hear the whooshing sound of air rushing in to the reservoir. I filled it back up and ran the electric pump to prime the system. I found no leaks after doing this. 4 days later, I find a puddle under the driver side. I pop the hood and see coolant slowly dripping out of the overflow tube coming from the reservoir. I begin to remove the cap, and coolant forcefully shoots out of the overflow tube as if it is under immense vacuum. I close the cap and it stopped. I am capable of my own repairs, but I am not sure what is causing this and would like some guidance here.
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Old Apr 29, 2020 | 03:00 PM
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I am suspecting a head gasket...I will pull the plugs and see how they look. But any help is welcomed.

Thanks
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Old Apr 29, 2020 | 04:15 PM
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So basically is it totally cold when you are popping the radiator cap and hissing coming out of over flow? If totally cold I could see it being a head gasket as it is only suppose to hiss when it is hot when it is cold then it should open with no pressure. The head gasket is creating additional pressure even when cold.
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Old Apr 29, 2020 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by double06
So basically is it totally cold when you are popping the radiator cap and hissing coming out of over flow? If totally cold I could see it being a head gasket as it is only suppose to hiss when it is hot when it is cold then it should open with no pressure. The head gasket is creating additional pressure even when cold.
Yeah. I havent driven the car since the last time I took it out. I'll check the plugs.
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Old Apr 30, 2020 | 04:34 PM
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had an issue like that yrs ago it was the GM water pump gaskets.
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Old Apr 30, 2020 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
had an issue like that yrs ago it was the GM water pump gaskets.
I pulled the plugs and water pump today. Plugs look perfectly fine. Water pump gaskets look fine. I do see coolant streaks
Coming from somewhere on the front of the water pump. I cant remember if I used thread sealant last time. Do these bolts go into a water jacket?
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Old May 1, 2020 | 09:06 AM
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I think they might go into the water jacket, if not maybe one does. Do a paper clip test and see where it goes of if you have a mirror. Though this would not explain the big hissing sound out of tank on a cold motor. For simple leaks also check your front steam crossover tube and the temp sensor tightness on the passenger side in front of the number 1 plug.
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Old May 1, 2020 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by double06
I think they might go into the water jacket, if not maybe one does. Do a paper clip test and see where it goes of if you have a mirror. Though this would not explain the big hissing sound out of tank on a cold motor. For simple leaks also check your front steam crossover tube and the temp sensor tightness on the passenger side in front of the number 1 plug.
I'll confirm that. I'll be pulling the heads at this point either way. I had an overheating event 1.5 yrs ago when my blower belt broke. I switched to an electric pump and got the car retuned as I added methanol and a smaller pulley. The car picked up 180WHP and drove great. So I thought everything was fine. 1.5 yrs later...it seems like everything is not fine.
I have a steam vent w AN fittings and confirmed they were all good. And the ECT is on the driver side and is in there nice and tight.
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Old May 2, 2020 | 04:29 PM
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Pulled the passenger head and found the culprit..


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Found some light rusting on one of the cylinder walls. I also found that all but one of the header ports are white from coolant. The ls9 gasket had no signs compromise, perhaps the head warped...
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Old May 2, 2020 | 04:48 PM
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ugh that really sucks!
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Old May 2, 2020 | 06:20 PM
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Check the cylinder sleeve for a crack too.
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Old May 2, 2020 | 07:20 PM
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I couldn't find any cracks in the sleeve. Those are steel and I'd probably be more likely to find some crack between the valves. Ill take the heads in to get resurfaced, checked and cleaned.
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Old May 3, 2020 | 09:11 AM
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Good at least you check the sleeves its still an OEM sleeve but not as thin as the LS7 sleeve which is prone to split in forced induction scenarios. Were any head bolts/studs looser than normal when you took apart. Hope you find the leak.
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Old May 3, 2020 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by double06
Good at least you check the sleeves its still an OEM sleeve but not as thin as the LS7 sleeve which is prone to split in forced induction scenarios. Were any head bolts/studs looser than normal when you took apart. Hope you find the leak.
I found that the studs on the intake side of the head weren't very tight. All of the other studs were very tight. I have to check ARPs specs for all the studs as this may be by design.
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Old May 3, 2020 | 11:02 PM
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I removed the other head today and everything looked normal on the driver's side. I'm thinking of switching to trickflow genx 255 heads. I'd like a head that can support 1000whp. I'm at 890 now on pump gas. Anyone have experience with these heads?
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Old May 7, 2020 | 11:04 AM
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I had the heads checked. No issues there. I went ahead and purchased the TF 255 GenX heads. Unfortunately, my Yella Terra rockers won't work with these heads. So, I will need new rockers as well.
I will post more pics this weekend during the install.

Last edited by slow goat; May 7, 2020 at 11:05 AM.
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Old May 8, 2020 | 08:40 AM
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I cleaned the block so far and got it ready for the new hardware.


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I also got the rust out of the cylinder..

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