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Trying to get my car (2006 c6 ls2) to pass smog but have a check engine light. Code is a p0106 and for the life of me, can’t figure out what’s throwing it. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks using brake clean and didn’t notice any changes. Car is currently 100% stock. Any recommendations or anybody had this problem? What can cause it or typical solutions? Also I can check the live data, does anybody know what the range is for map and maf on these ls2 c6’s or what the acceptable range is before the car will throw a code?
Last edited by C6_Crackerman; May 21, 2020 at 10:35 AM.
Rule of thumb is MAF grams/second should be about the displacement of your engine so roughly 6.0 grams/second...my 5.7 usually reads around 6.3 at idle...MAP key on engine off should read a little over 100 kPa key on engine off at sea level...sometimes a dirty throttle body can cause a P0106...look at your live data for TP desired vs. TP indicated if it has that data PID...both should read similar with KOEO !!..as far as connectors I like using DeoxIt.
Rule of thumb is MAF grams/second should be about the displacement of your engine so roughly 6.0 grams/second...my 5.7 usually reads around 6.3 at idle...MAP key on engine off should read a little over 100 kPa key on engine off at sea level...sometimes a dirty throttle body can cause a P0106...look at your live data for TP desired vs. TP indicated if it has that data PID...both should read similar with KOEO !!..as far as connectors I like using DeoxIt.
Took a picture of the live data from my scanner this morning while cruising down the freeway at about 70mph. Don’t know if these ranges look normal but typically if I clear the code, it’s the second time I start the car it’ll pop right back up. I tried cleaning the MAF and MAP sensor (map sensor had some oil on it) but no luck.
Your Long Term Fuel Trims are too high...anything over +- 10 is concerning !!...what are your long terms at idle ??...if higher at idle but decrease at higher RPM you have a vacuum leak and that may set the 0106...check your LTFT’s at idle and check the things I mentioned KOEO...if LTFT were lower and idle but INCREASE under load you have either a fuel delivery issue or a MAF sensor one !!...the ECM is seeing a lean condition and in your case adding 15-16 % more fuel !!...what does your TP read at idle ??...should be less than 10%. ECM calculates MAP based on TP and engine RPM !!
Your Long Term Fuel Trims are too high...anything over +- 10 is concerning !!...what are your long terms at idle ??...if higher at idle but decrease at higher RPM you have a vacuum leak and that may set the 0106...check your LTFT’s at idle and check the things I mentioned KOEO...if LTFT were lower and idle but INCREASE under load you have either a fuel delivery issue or a MAF sensor one !!...the ECM is seeing a lean condition and in your case adding 15-16 % more fuel !!...what does your TP read at idle ??...should be less than 10%. ECM calculates MAP based on TP and engine RPM !!
Just took these two screenshots, first start up of the day and just idling there, the LTFT would scavenge from 8%-11% but mainly under 10%. I have only noticed about 3% increase of both fuel trims with just mild 1st-3rd driving around my block.
this was cruising around in second gear at about 15% mph. However I’m not sure what you mean by KOEO?
Well let’s not worry about your fuel trims right now for a MAP DTC !!...KOEO means Key On Engine Off...what does your MAP read KOEO ??...I don’t know your mechanical/electrical skills but you can watch this video and you can test yours...I believe your MAP sensor is on the passenger side of the intake manifold forward side. Like I said I don’t know if your scan tool shows TP but what does it say KOEO ??...have you looked at your throttle body for cleanliness ??
Well let’s not worry about your fuel trims right now for a MAP DTC !!...KOEO means Key On Engine Off...what does your MAP read KOEO ??...I don’t know your mechanical/electrical skills but you can watch this video and you can test yours...I believe your MAP sensor is on the passenger side of the intake manifold forward side. Like I said I don’t know if your scan tool shows TP but what does it say KOEO ??...have you looked at your throttle body for cleanliness ??
If im not mistaking throttle position at KOEO is showing 25.9% and my MAP KOEO is reading 27.2 (inHG)... lol. I’m no expert but is throttle position suppose to be that high? And the throttle body was cleaned about 6 months ago and when I checked the other day it also seemed to be pretty clean
WOW !!!...almost 26% at KOEO ???...6-10% is good...I took 2 snapshots of my ‘01 with KOEO (TPS at 9%) and idle...4%...try cleaning your throttle body and especially around the bore where the plate sits...I would also make sure the throttle plate is not binding !!...also what is your altitude where you live ??...I’m basically sea level so my Baro is around 30.1 inHg.
WOW !!!...almost 26% at KOEO ???...6-10% is good...I took 2 snapshots of my ‘01 with KOEO (TPS at 9%) and idle...4%...try cleaning your throttle body and especially around the bore where the plate sits...I would also make sure the throttle plate is not binding !!...also what is your altitude where you live ??...I’m basically sea level so my Baro is around 30.1 inHg.
sounds good, that would make a lot of sense! I’m also at about sea level! So I’ll give that a shot today and pull the TB back off and see how it looks. I’ll send a couple pictures to, any recommendations on how to clean it or just simply shoot it with some throttle body cleaner?
You DON’T have to remove it to clean !!!...recheck your KOEO MAP...should be close to mine...you may have a bad MAP and a dirty TB....video enclosed !!!...your BARO puts you about 2000 feet above sea level.
You DON’T have to remove it to clean !!!...recheck your KOEO MAP...should be close to mine...you may have a bad MAP and a dirty TB....video enclosed !!!...your BARO puts you about 2000 feet above sea level.
im about 180 ft. Over see level in Vacaville ca. I’m showing 27.5 (inHg) or ( 93kPa) KOEO for my MAP still. Tried cleaning throttle body but it didn’t look that dirty to begin with. Still have the code though 😅
Last edited by C6_Crackerman; May 24, 2020 at 03:22 PM.
Don’t know your electrical abilities but you should try testing the MAP sensor as shown in the video if you have a DVOM...best to have a vacuum pump too while testing...make sure that plate isn’t binding...always best to disconnect the harness while fiddling with the throttle plate. Like I mentioned you should see less than 10% on the TP data PID and you might as well clear that DTC.
Don’t know your electrical abilities but you should try testing the MAP sensor as shown in the video if you have a DVOM...best to have a vacuum pump too while testing...make sure that plate isn’t binding...always best to disconnect the harness while fiddling with the throttle plate. Like I mentioned you should see less than 10% on the TP data PID and you might as well clear that DTC.
little off topic but what do you think of this? I believe it’s a boot for the PCV line but not positive.
I put my finger in it to show how badly the boot was actually split open. This was found about a year ago and apparently was “temp fixed” by being electrical tape over the line. When spraying the brake clean, it didn’t notice to change Rpms however the car at WOT will have a super quick, one time misfire and I’m curious if that’s from the pressure or vacuum building up and seeping by.
The line that this boot rides on gets plugged into here.. don’t know exactly what line this is but could this be the issue? I was recommended replacing the PCV valve since there is suppose to be a small inline check valve somewhere?