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Anyone know why there are different part numbers for auto and manual FE1 leaf springs? Specifically the front spring. Is it fitment or just spring rate?
Last edited by TRSCobra; May 30, 2020 at 08:08 PM.
Spring rate, with the Auto having a little more tension for the added weight of the trans and torque converter during weight transfer during braking (so the front end does not dip too low to cause hook steering).
As for Fe1 and Fe3 trans springs on a balanced system, the Fe1's work better if you find your self gliding through corners, while the Fe3's do require forward braking weight transfer to get the front end to grip correctly into the apex isntead.
So really, if you have a manual, and adding a super charger with about 100lb in the front added, here is where you would want to swap from the manual to auto front trans spring. If auto and running a Fe1 auto, then may want to step up to a FE3 manual front trans spring instead.
Spring rate, with the Auto having a little more tension for the added weight of the trans and torque converter during weight transfer during braking (so the front end does not dip too low to cause hook steering).
As for Fe1 and Fe3 trans springs on a balanced system, the Fe1's work better if you find your self gliding through corners, while the Fe3's do require forward braking weight transfer to get the front end to grip correctly into the apex isntead.
So really, if you have a manual, and adding a super charger with about 100lb in the front added, here is where you would want to swap from the manual to auto front trans spring. If auto and running a Fe1 auto, then may want to step up to a FE3 manual front trans spring instead.
Thanks for clearing it up! I'm just looking for the lowest spring rate for a drag racing application. Manual FE1 sounds like the ticket!
Thanks for clearing it up! I'm just looking for the lowest spring rate for a drag racing application. Manual FE1 sounds like the ticket!
I understand removing the front sway bar to reduce weight, but fail to see an advantage in softer front springs. I'm just questioning what difference does the front spring rate make for drag racing?
BTW, For exact spring rate specs, try contacting Jim Mero who was the Corvette suspension guru for the C6.
I understand removing the front sway bar to reduce weight, but fail to see an advantage in softer front springs. I'm just questioning what difference does the front spring rate make for drag racing?
BTW, For exact spring rate specs, try contacting Jim Mero who was the Corvette suspension guru for the C6.
A softer spring will transfer weight to the rear better. My car is a Z06, so a 420lb/in Manual FE1 spring is a good bit lighter than my stock spring. Figured a used take off spring would be cheap to try out anyways. Here's where I'm getting my information: http://www.cachassisworks.com/Attach...1-226_drag.pdf
A softer spring will transfer weight to the rear better. My car is a Z06, so a 420lb/in Manual FE1 spring is a good bit lighter than my stock spring. Figured a used take off spring would be cheap to try out anyways. Here's where I'm getting my information: http://www.cachassisworks.com/Attach...1-226_drag.pdf
I suspected you had looked at that type of information. Unfortunately, that is entirely based on use of adjustable coil springs with adjustable shocks, which wouldn't be on your car when retaining a leaf spring. A lighter rate front leaf spring can increase the vertical travel, but without adjustable shocks, the weight transfer can bounce back and forth both on the initial launch and during shifts. The biggest concern from my point of view, would be the possibility of lifting the front too high during the final shift at speed and the bounce on the rebound.
If you're currently having traction issues on launch, other than controlling the rate of power application, what else have you changed from bone stock?
I suspected you had looked at that type of information. Unfortunately, that is entirely based on use of adjustable coil springs with adjustable shocks, which wouldn't be on your car when retaining a leaf spring. A lighter rate front leaf spring can increase the vertical travel, but without adjustable shocks, the weight transfer can bounce back and forth both on the initial launch and during shifts. The biggest concern from my point of view, would be the possibility of lifting the front too high during the final shift at speed and the bounce on the rebound.
If you're currently having traction issues on launch, other than controlling the rate of power application, what else have you changed from bone stock?
I've already had reasonable success with the stock leaves, Viking DA shocks, no front swaybar, and ZR1 rear bar, getting a 1.45 60' best, but recently added monoball control arm bushings and just toying around with the idea of switching front springs to experiment. I'll be adding another 100whp or so, and really would like to get into the 1.3x
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