Trans Cooler Questions
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 233
From: Chicago Illinois
Trans Cooler Questions
No doubt this question has been asked many times. I did a search on this forum, but tit not sww exactly what I has looking for.
I want to add a simple and easy trans cooler to my 06 C6 Automatic. I like to Autocross the car, as well as street driving at times with the paddles. When I do these things I watch the trans oil temps, They get into the 220 Degree F ranges. I want to keep the install simple by placing the cooler up front, no electric fans, no rear cooler mounting wither.
I would imagine there are two ways to go. One would be to run the lines directly to and from the trans to the cooler. Requiring me to cut the existing lines. The other would be to run the cooler inline with the existing lines. I am guessing on these options.
Questions:
I want to add a simple and easy trans cooler to my 06 C6 Automatic. I like to Autocross the car, as well as street driving at times with the paddles. When I do these things I watch the trans oil temps, They get into the 220 Degree F ranges. I want to keep the install simple by placing the cooler up front, no electric fans, no rear cooler mounting wither.
I would imagine there are two ways to go. One would be to run the lines directly to and from the trans to the cooler. Requiring me to cut the existing lines. The other would be to run the cooler inline with the existing lines. I am guessing on these options.
Questions:
- Inline or bypass cooler install? Which is the most effective? Which is the easiest to install?
- If I choose to bypass the stock radiator, what happens with the lines at the stock radiator?
- Are there trans cooler kits that include all the required fittings needed to complete the job?
- Who has done this using either the bypass or inline method? And what advice can you give on doing this right?
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 120
Likes: 17
From: San Jose, CA
Questions:
- Inline or bypass cooler install? Which is the most effective? Which is the easiest to install?
- I guess I did a mix of both. I cut the soft part of the lines that go into the radiator and used a 3/8" male to male hose barb to run lines to my cooler. I believe I bypassed the radiator completely so I wouldnt add more heat to the coolant and limit the amount of pressure drop as much as possible.
- If I choose to bypass the stock radiator, what happens with the lines at the stock radiator?
- I would just find a way to plug those lines so it stays clean. So either cap where you cut the line or remove the lines from the radiator and use a plug made for that connection.
- Are there trans cooler kits that include all the required fittings needed to complete the job?
- I think there are some generic kits but I chose not to go that rout.
- Who has done this using either the bypass or inline method? And what advice can you give on doing this right?
- Look up mounting orientation of a cooler to limit air pockets.
- I used clamps on the soft lines I cut so I didn't leak much ATF and create air bubbles. these look like plastic pliers and mine came in a set of 3 sizes from amazon.
- Pre fill the new cooler so there isn't a massive air pocket running through the system.
- The tub and fin type didn't cool enough for me. I suggest getting the plate type and get one a little bigger than you think. prize difference of the generic coolers is pretty small so might as well go for more cooling rather than not enough and having to do the job twice (or 3 times like me).
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 13,262
Likes: 3,150
From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I am in the process of adding a trans cooler to my 2011 GS since I will be installing a 3,000 rpm stall converter in it very soon.
It's a stock head and cam car with a Heartbeat supercharger at 8 PSI boost and headers. It's tuned for 93 octane pump gas.
I purchase a B&M 'stacked' 11" x 5 3/4" cooler (P/N: 70264)
I will be mounting it to the front of the radiator ... In my case, that would be to the front of the SC intercooler since the intercooler is in front of the radiator)
________________________________
1. Transmission fluid will flow through the radiator first before flowing through the transmission aux cooler.
2. The transmission hot fluid line will remain attached to lower inlet fitting of the radiator (don't mess with that lower trans cooler line)
3. The transmission aux cooler gets plumbed into the cooled fluid line which is attached to the upper outlet fitting of the radiator.
Use transmission compression fittings (3/8" tube to 3/8" barb) to plumb the transmission into the steel cooler line.
Compression Fittings (2ea):
Mount the transmission aux cooler so as their 2 fittings are either oriented on top or to the sides of the cooler.
.
It's a stock head and cam car with a Heartbeat supercharger at 8 PSI boost and headers. It's tuned for 93 octane pump gas.
I purchase a B&M 'stacked' 11" x 5 3/4" cooler (P/N: 70264)
I will be mounting it to the front of the radiator ... In my case, that would be to the front of the SC intercooler since the intercooler is in front of the radiator)
________________________________
1. Transmission fluid will flow through the radiator first before flowing through the transmission aux cooler.
2. The transmission hot fluid line will remain attached to lower inlet fitting of the radiator (don't mess with that lower trans cooler line)
3. The transmission aux cooler gets plumbed into the cooled fluid line which is attached to the upper outlet fitting of the radiator.
Use transmission compression fittings (3/8" tube to 3/8" barb) to plumb the transmission into the steel cooler line.
Compression Fittings (2ea):
Mount the transmission aux cooler so as their 2 fittings are either oriented on top or to the sides of the cooler.
.
Last edited by Turbo6TA; Jun 9, 2020 at 12:25 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 233
From: Chicago Illinois
SkittlesRgood
So then, you completely by-passed the stock radiator. How did you choose the size of the cooler you used?
The lines to and from the trans, where did you make the cuts in the lines?
Pre-filling the cooler sounds like a great idea. Had to be a holy mess to position the cooler filled with trans fluid oil!
By adding the cooler, did you get the temp results you were after?
So then, you completely by-passed the stock radiator. How did you choose the size of the cooler you used?
The lines to and from the trans, where did you make the cuts in the lines?
Pre-filling the cooler sounds like a great idea. Had to be a holy mess to position the cooler filled with trans fluid oil!
By adding the cooler, did you get the temp results you were after?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 233
From: Chicago Illinois
I am in the process of adding a trans cooler to my 2011 GS since I will be installing a 3,000 rpm stall converter in it very soon.
It's a stock head and cam car with a Heartbeat supercharger at 8 PSI boost and headers. It's tuned for 93 octane pump gas.
I purchase a B&M 'stacked' 11" x 5 3/4" cooler (P/N: 70264)
I will be mounting it to the front of the radiator ... In my case, that would be to the front of the SC intercooler since the intercooler is in front of the radiator)
________________________________
1. Transmission fluid will flow through the radiator first before flowing through the transmission aux cooler.
2. The transmission hot fluid line will remain attached to lower inlet fitting of the radiator (don't mess with that lower trans cooler line)
3. The transmission aux cooler gets plumbed into the cooled fluid line which is attached to the upper outlet fitting of the radiator.
Use transmission compression fittings (3/8" tube to 3/8" barb) to plumb the transmission into the steel cooler line.
Compression Fittings (2ea): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mount the transmission aux cooler so as their 2 fittings are either oriented on top or to the sides of the cooler.
.
It's a stock head and cam car with a Heartbeat supercharger at 8 PSI boost and headers. It's tuned for 93 octane pump gas.
I purchase a B&M 'stacked' 11" x 5 3/4" cooler (P/N: 70264)
I will be mounting it to the front of the radiator ... In my case, that would be to the front of the SC intercooler since the intercooler is in front of the radiator)
________________________________
1. Transmission fluid will flow through the radiator first before flowing through the transmission aux cooler.
2. The transmission hot fluid line will remain attached to lower inlet fitting of the radiator (don't mess with that lower trans cooler line)
3. The transmission aux cooler gets plumbed into the cooled fluid line which is attached to the upper outlet fitting of the radiator.
Use transmission compression fittings (3/8" tube to 3/8" barb) to plumb the transmission into the steel cooler line.
Compression Fittings (2ea): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mount the transmission aux cooler so as their 2 fittings are either oriented on top or to the sides of the cooler.
.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 13,262
Likes: 3,150
From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I chose the stacked plate B&M cooler because since the plates are 'stacked', you get the same amount of BTU cooling from a smaller size cooler.
Since I am mounting the cooler in front of the SC intercooler, I don't want a large size trans cooler covering up too much of the supercharger intercooler.
The 11" x 5 3/4" stacked cooler cools the same as a larger 11" x 11" single plate cooler.
.
Since I am mounting the cooler in front of the SC intercooler, I don't want a large size trans cooler covering up too much of the supercharger intercooler.
The 11" x 5 3/4" stacked cooler cools the same as a larger 11" x 11" single plate cooler.
.
Last edited by Turbo6TA; Jun 13, 2020 at 09:37 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 120
Likes: 17
From: San Jose, CA
lol yeah it was tricky and I absolutely spilled some.
I don't have a picture but I cut near the radiator, where the hard lines from the radiator turn to rubber.
All of this will add resistance to the flow of oil, resulting in a pressure drop. I have no idea what the total drop is, but I wanted to limit this drop as much a possible so I do recommend bypassing the radiator, personally. But wouldn't call someone who doesn't bypass it wrong.
I don't have a method for choosing a size. I just stopped messing around and went for a big one. More rows = less resistance. If you're worried about keeping the oil too cold you can throw in a thermostat, I didn't and it's not an issue. I have like 6 different coolers in my amazon history... I think I ended up with this one lol:
I do the 20min track sessions and honestly temps could be lower still, but it's good enough for me. If I get too unhappy about it I'll move the cooler behind the fog light, remove fog light, and make a duct.
I don't have a picture but I cut near the radiator, where the hard lines from the radiator turn to rubber.
All of this will add resistance to the flow of oil, resulting in a pressure drop. I have no idea what the total drop is, but I wanted to limit this drop as much a possible so I do recommend bypassing the radiator, personally. But wouldn't call someone who doesn't bypass it wrong.
I don't have a method for choosing a size. I just stopped messing around and went for a big one. More rows = less resistance. If you're worried about keeping the oil too cold you can throw in a thermostat, I didn't and it's not an issue. I have like 6 different coolers in my amazon history... I think I ended up with this one lol:
I do the 20min track sessions and honestly temps could be lower still, but it's good enough for me. If I get too unhappy about it I'll move the cooler behind the fog light, remove fog light, and make a duct.
Last edited by SkittlesRgood; Jun 9, 2020 at 01:08 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 13,262
Likes: 3,150
From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I don't have a method for choosing a size. I just stopped messing around and went for a big one. More rows = less resistance. If you're worried about keeping the oil too cold you can throw in a thermostat, I didn't and it's not an issue. I have like 6 different coolers in my amazon history... I think I ended up with this one lol:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 233
From: Chicago Illinois
Aside from the pre-filled cooler itself. How much trans fluid did you all need to add to the system after installing the cooler. Also, where is the fill location for trans fluid in the C6 auto trans?
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 120
Likes: 17
From: San Jose, CA
The fill plug is a bit of a PITA. Its on the passenger side of the trans. Theres a little ledge along the side there and you'll find a rubber plug with a plastic sorta pin in the middle of it. similar to body panel clips. Pop the plastic up and wiggle/pull like hell. Curse a little.
Future tip. I replace my ATF more often than most since I track the car. But dropping the pan is the biggest pain ever, since you can't access the bolts in the rear. So every few track days I put a tube into the fill hole and pump out as much oil as possible, then refill. So I always have 3 quarts of fresh oil
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 233
From: Chicago Illinois
I went out to look over the location of things and I would guess that all the C6 auto trans models share the same layout. On my 04 C6 auto trans base coupe, the trans lines to and from the radiator are located on the passengar side. Would that be correct?
Before I started this thread, I looked at lots of Hayden coolers. The recommendations in this thread are B&M coolers with the stacked-plate design as opposed to that old-school design. The Hydens also appear to be of the stacked plate configuration. Those here who are using the B&M coolers, what prompted that choice of cooler.
Before I started this thread, I looked at lots of Hayden coolers. The recommendations in this thread are B&M coolers with the stacked-plate design as opposed to that old-school design. The Hydens also appear to be of the stacked plate configuration. Those here who are using the B&M coolers, what prompted that choice of cooler.
Last edited by gpruitt54; Jun 10, 2020 at 08:54 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 120
Likes: 17
From: San Jose, CA
I went out to look over the location of things and I would guess that all the C6 auto trans models share the same layout. On my 04 C6 auto trans base coupe, the trans lines to and from the radiator are located on the passengar side. Would that be correct?
Before I started this thread, I looked at lots of Hayden coolers. The recommendations in this thread are use B&M coolers with the stacked-plate design as opposed to that old-school design. The Hydens also appear to be of the stacked plate configuration. Those here who are using the B&M coolers, what prompted that choice of cooler.
Before I started this thread, I looked at lots of Hayden coolers. The recommendations in this thread are use B&M coolers with the stacked-plate design as opposed to that old-school design. The Hydens also appear to be of the stacked plate configuration. Those here who are using the B&M coolers, what prompted that choice of cooler.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,807
Likes: 508
From: Oshawa, Ontario
SkittlesRgood
So then, you completely by-passed the stock radiator. How did you choose the size of the cooler you used?
The lines to and from the trans, where did you make the cuts in the lines?
Pre-filling the cooler sounds like a great idea. Had to be a holy mess to position the cooler filled with trans fluid oil!
By adding the cooler, did you get the temp results you were after?
So then, you completely by-passed the stock radiator. How did you choose the size of the cooler you used?
The lines to and from the trans, where did you make the cuts in the lines?
Pre-filling the cooler sounds like a great idea. Had to be a holy mess to position the cooler filled with trans fluid oil!
By adding the cooler, did you get the temp results you were after?
Last edited by irok; Jun 10, 2020 at 12:05 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,376
Likes: 1,118
Best bang for the buck in coolers is the Hayden 679, which retails for a whopping $50 bucks, as shown below:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-679
Less than half the price of a comparable B&M and works just as well or better, without having to take out your fog lights and use a fancy fan/cooler module.
I’ve never tested it for pressure drop, but I can tell you that my transmission seems to work fine with it. It isn’t flimsy at all, and I certainly wouldn’t describe it as a toy.
That’s all I’ve ever used with my car ever since I installed my FTI 3600 stall converter. I connected it first in series with the radiator and now as a stand-alone. Bypassing the rad seems to help the TFTs stay lower, and in 8-95* weather, the trans temps warm up quickly enough.
Right now I have it sandwiched between my A/C condenser core, where a 1.75” B&M wouldn’t fit.
My trans temps usually stay in the upper 170s and never gets higher than 200, even when I beat on it a bit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-679
Less than half the price of a comparable B&M and works just as well or better, without having to take out your fog lights and use a fancy fan/cooler module.
I’ve never tested it for pressure drop, but I can tell you that my transmission seems to work fine with it. It isn’t flimsy at all, and I certainly wouldn’t describe it as a toy.
That’s all I’ve ever used with my car ever since I installed my FTI 3600 stall converter. I connected it first in series with the radiator and now as a stand-alone. Bypassing the rad seems to help the TFTs stay lower, and in 8-95* weather, the trans temps warm up quickly enough.
Right now I have it sandwiched between my A/C condenser core, where a 1.75” B&M wouldn’t fit.
My trans temps usually stay in the upper 170s and never gets higher than 200, even when I beat on it a bit.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 120
Likes: 17
From: San Jose, CA
Best bang for the buck in coolers is the Hayden 679, which retails for a whopping $50 bucks, as shown below:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-679
Less than half the price of a comparable B&M and works just as well or better, without having to take out your fog lights and use a fancy fan/cooler module.
I’ve never tested it for pressure drop, but I can tell you that my transmission seems to work fine with it. It isn’t flimsy at all, and I certainly wouldn’t describe it as a toy.
That’s all I’ve ever used with my car ever since I installed my FTI 3600 stall converter. I connected it first in series with the radiator and now as a stand-alone. Bypassing the rad seems to help the TFTs stay lower, and in 8-95* weather, the trans temps warm up quickly enough.
Right now I have it sandwiched between my A/C condenser core, where a 1.75” B&M wouldn’t fit.
My trans temps usually stay in the upper 170s and never gets higher than 200, even when I beat on it a bit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-679
Less than half the price of a comparable B&M and works just as well or better, without having to take out your fog lights and use a fancy fan/cooler module.
I’ve never tested it for pressure drop, but I can tell you that my transmission seems to work fine with it. It isn’t flimsy at all, and I certainly wouldn’t describe it as a toy.
That’s all I’ve ever used with my car ever since I installed my FTI 3600 stall converter. I connected it first in series with the radiator and now as a stand-alone. Bypassing the rad seems to help the TFTs stay lower, and in 8-95* weather, the trans temps warm up quickly enough.
Right now I have it sandwiched between my A/C condenser core, where a 1.75” B&M wouldn’t fit.
My trans temps usually stay in the upper 170s and never gets higher than 200, even when I beat on it a bit.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 233
From: Chicago Illinois
I pulled the trigger and bought a cooler for my 06 base coupe:
Like many of them, this one came with a number of fittings that may come in handy during the install. I believe I will do an in-line installation. With an in-line install, I will not heed to routch the line coming from the trans and into the radiator. WIth the in-line setup, I will be adding extra cooling to the fluid boing back into the trans. I hope to do this without cutting any existing line.
Is it possible to install an in-line cooler in the C6 Base Coupe and not cut the stock lines?
Like many of them, this one came with a number of fittings that may come in handy during the install. I believe I will do an in-line installation. With an in-line install, I will not heed to routch the line coming from the trans and into the radiator. WIth the in-line setup, I will be adding extra cooling to the fluid boing back into the trans. I hope to do this without cutting any existing line.
Is it possible to install an in-line cooler in the C6 Base Coupe and not cut the stock lines?
Last edited by gpruitt54; Jun 11, 2020 at 03:22 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,843
Likes: 330
From: western NY
https://derale.com/product-footer/fl...4/13403-detail
Last edited by jft69z; Jun 11, 2020 at 05:36 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,431
Likes: 233
From: Chicago Illinois
The upper trans cooler fitting on the C6 Vette is an NTP fitting Right? Is that fitting Male or Female?
My cooler arrived from Amazon this evening.
I am considering buying an AN6 fitting kit with nylon or stainless brad tubing. I think that would look pretty cool.
My cooler arrived from Amazon this evening.
I am considering buying an AN6 fitting kit with nylon or stainless brad tubing. I think that would look pretty cool.
Last edited by gpruitt54; Jun 13, 2020 at 10:50 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,807
Likes: 508
From: Oshawa, Ontario
Look at the Russell Pro Classic Black Braided AN hose that is more flexible,lighter and easier to cut than stainless that looks even cooler with their black fitting's
4th Gear
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
How is this trans cooler setup working?
I’m doing the same thing on my a&a supercharged 2011 GS. How is this working out with the cooler between the radiator and ac condenser. I’m a little concerned about heat build up and lacy of airflow with the intercooler in front of all of it.
Best bang for the buck in coolers is the Hayden 679, which retails for a whopping $50 bucks, as shown below:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-679
Less than half the price of a comparable B&M and works just as well or better, without having to take out your fog lights and use a fancy fan/cooler module.
I’ve never tested it for pressure drop, but I can tell you that my transmission seems to work fine with it. It isn’t flimsy at all, and I certainly wouldn’t describe it as a toy.
That’s all I’ve ever used with my car ever since I installed my FTI 3600 stall converter. I connected it first in series with the radiator and now as a stand-alone. Bypassing the rad seems to help the TFTs stay lower, and in 8-95* weather, the trans temps warm up quickly enough.
Right now I have it sandwiched between my A/C condenser core, where a 1.75” B&M wouldn’t fit.
My trans temps usually stay in the upper 170s and never gets higher than 200, even when I beat on it a bit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-679
Less than half the price of a comparable B&M and works just as well or better, without having to take out your fog lights and use a fancy fan/cooler module.
I’ve never tested it for pressure drop, but I can tell you that my transmission seems to work fine with it. It isn’t flimsy at all, and I certainly wouldn’t describe it as a toy.
That’s all I’ve ever used with my car ever since I installed my FTI 3600 stall converter. I connected it first in series with the radiator and now as a stand-alone. Bypassing the rad seems to help the TFTs stay lower, and in 8-95* weather, the trans temps warm up quickly enough.
Right now I have it sandwiched between my A/C condenser core, where a 1.75” B&M wouldn’t fit.
My trans temps usually stay in the upper 170s and never gets higher than 200, even when I beat on it a bit.