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I had my alignment done was wondering if someone with some knowledge could look at the specs and let me know if it all looks ok..thanks 2006 c6 all stock 74,000 miles thanks
Puzzling...
The angles aren't really much better than they were before... All the angles were officially in spec before any adjustments were made. Wonder why they bothered making any adjustments at all?
I'd call it crap, but the car will still drive OK with those settings.
I like to see the values basically even side-to-side, with the exception of caster. The car will drift to the side with the lower value, so a little less on the L/H will help with road crown.
They should at least try get them even...
That's the difference between a gas station/tire shop alignment and a performance shop one.
It seems like I have to constantly correct the steering that's why I asked for some advice.
im going back this weekend. What should I tell them what needs to be fixed ? Thanks
Last edited by JEROUIMET; Jun 15, 2020 at 09:12 PM.
Should I have them go with pfadt specs ?
im gonna put on z51 bars and bilisteine b6s in a couple weeks .
It's funny on the way to work this morning it seemed pretty straight changing lanes felt pretty good still floaty I think due to stock original shocks ..
A street alignment for me would be negative 2.0 front 8.0 caster and 0 toe for the front. 1.2 negative camber with 0.2 toe in for the rear. i would get a lot more aggressive for autocross or track.
If you want good tire wear and decent street handling, go with Pfadt Performance Street alignment numbers.
Note that the Pfadt toe measurements are opposite what most alignment shops are used to - negative numbers usually indicate toe out to them. Just make sure they understand you want toe in.
2nd on the Pfadt recommendations, and make sure they understand that the Pfadt toe specs are noted backwards, that you need TOE IN, not toe out as written.
Ask them if they can get the side-to-side measurements a lot closer.
If you have no play in the suspension/steering, there's no reason other than laziness that they can't.
If there is play... it needs to be addressed beforehand.
none of the actual numbers individually are horrible, it just isn't symmetric. They should have gotten the front camber around -0.7 on both sides, and the rear around -0.4 on both sides (for instance)
This is why I recommend people learn to check there own stuff with hand tools. It's not the fancy lasers and computers, it's the brain running them and turning the wrenches. Just because the machine lights up "green" doesn't make it right.
It's not the fancy lasers and computers, it's the brain running them and turning the wrenches. Just because the machine lights up "green" doesn't make it right.
I've been preaching that for years.
You can set a car so it's all in the green, but will practically do U turns when you take your hands off the wheel.
Alignment specs
