I already have the exhaust off all the way up to the manifolds..I just installed Dougs headers and side pipes on my C3 with only a floor jack and jack stands..it wasn’t easy but I got it done..is doing long tubes on the C6 about the same difficulty?..car is 2010 Grand Sport auto..

 

There not that difficult to do on jack stands.Get the car as high as you can to make it easier on your self

 

If your C3 is a Big Block, the C6 is a cake walk in comparison. Seriously, easy job on Jack Stands.

 

I was surprised how bad they weren't, after reading a lot of threads on it over the years I was expecting worse. They really aren't bad to do as long as you have the room. Easier with a second person to help hold them from up top but I did it by myself.

 

[QUOTE=BigBlok502;1601924125]If your C3 is a Big Block, the C6 is a cake walk in comparison. Seriously, easy job on Jack Stands...the C3 is a small block..the passenger side was really easy to get in and a few bolts started..the driver’s side not so easy,especially doing it solo

 

I’m gonna do these next week and needs gaskets and possibly new bolts..which should I get?i kinda want middle of the road stuff not cheap but reasonable..it’s an LS3

 

I installed used Kooks and re-used the factory bolts and gaskets, 2006 LS2. That was four years ago, no leaks or issues whatsoever.


Kooks LTs with HF Cats

 

I just used OEM gaskets and reused the old bolts.

 

I did this also.

One thing I would add, get the 31 inch 02 extensions instead of 24 inch.

 

are the 24s too short or just tight?i bought these used and it only had one 24 so I need to order some anyway

 

The 24’s are tight. You can spend the time and unwrap some of the wiring under fuel rail covers to get some more slack. I didn’t want to mess with that.

 

I installed 1 7/8" American Racing Headers & 3" Catted X-Pipe on my 2012 Grand Sport in Early 2019.

Tommy Wong (Vancouver,WA) My Tuner advised me to not use the rear O2's and too plug the Bung Holes.

I have a ROTARY Two Post Lift and feel its the BEST Tool that I ever bought myself . If youre doing this
install on Jack Stands...I would definitely have a helper, standing by as you'll constantly be needing misc
tools and other items.

When I removed the OE Exhaust System I installed the DEI Tunnel Heat Insulation Kit.

I dont know about other brands but ARH warns that the RIGHT Inside Frame Edge may need trimming
and mine did. I used a Harbor Freight small angled air motor and a 3" Cut Off Wheel to make several
cuts until I had adequate clearance. The cut edge is extremely sharp so I then used a 60 grit flapper
wheel to dress down the sharp edge...I suppose you could hand file it......Doing this laying on the floor
will be a chore.............

ARH headers have a bell mouth style collector end. You MUST leave one header loose in order to
get the X-Pipe started in Bolt Collectors ...then finish tightening the other header...I learned this the hard
way..........

I also went to a fastener supply in my area and bought the kind of nuts that cant loosen on their own....
Where the flanges hold the collector and X pipe together.....Look at my pictures and ask me questions

I also ordered Foil Insulating Tape Wrap from Summit or Jeg's and pkg's of Insulation for Trans Line
and Wiring Bundles ...the insulation has Velcro and Opens /Closes around whatever youre applying it too

Stock NPP mufflers..............400 RWHP on a MUSTANG DYNO ( Stingier than a DynaJet)

 

Ok I have one header on and will most likely finish up tomorrow...am I safe to assume that the O2 sensor will connect from the long tube to the front connector above the plugs?the one nearest the front bumper

 

Make sure you have X pipe married up with Header/Collector BEFORE you tighten bother Headers to Cyl Heads

 

How are y’all running your o2 extension wires so they don’t get too hot and burn up?..the ones running from headers to the front plug

 

I went straight to the frame rails from the engine, followed the frame rails, and then straight over to the O2 sensors. I used zip ties to secure them.