C6 Base Brake Upgrades...
Last edited by kite167; Aug 1, 2020 at 11:33 AM.
So on that note, first thing to do is to power flush the brake fluid to get the old humidity contaminated fluid out, and new clean/ dry fluid in to begin with so the pedal is working correctly. Now with the OEM brakes working their best, re-evaluate if you do need to get into better gripping brakes if you are not able to get into the ABS system fast enough, or if the problem is tire grip for increased breaking isntead.
Simply, will bank that it just more initial bite, better pedal feed back, and maybe slightly higher working temps that the OEM base brake pads are not offering now (since you will be able to get into the ABS system fast enough with enough pedal push with clean brake fluid in the system), and that can be solved by just switching to either the OEM HD pads found on the Z51 cars, or going to 1521's that will dust less than the HD pads isntead.
Note, service manual calls out for the Dot 3 brake fluid to be power flushed every three year, and if you are running Dot 4 that collects humidity faster (dot 4 does have a higher temp range through), then may have to power flush more often if you are getting the brake fluid up to those higher working temps. Also, really takes a Tech 2 to power flush the abs pump to get the old fluid out of it at the time of power flushing as well.
Last edited by Dano523; Aug 1, 2020 at 01:09 PM.
So on that note, first thing to do is to power flush the brake fluid to get the old humidity contaminated fluid out, and new clean/ dry fluid in to begin with so the pedal is working correctly. Now with the OEM brakes working their best, re-evaluate if you do need to get into better gripping brakes if you are not able to get into the ABS system fast enough, or if the problem is tire grip for increased breaking isntead.
Simply, will bank that it just more initial bite, better pedal feed back, and maybe slightly higher working temps that the OEM base brake pads are not offering now (since you will be able to get into the ABS system fast enough with enough pedal push with clean brake fluid in the system), and that can be solved by just switching to either the OEM HD pads found on the Z51 cars, or going to 1521's that will dust less than the HD pads isntead.
Note, service manual calls out for the Dot 3 brake fluid to be power flushed every three year, and if you are running Dot 4 that collects humidity faster (dot 4 does have a higher temp range through), then may have to power flush more often if you are getting the brake fluid up to those higher working temps. Also, really takes a Tech 2 to power flush the abs pump to get the old fluid out of it at the time of power flushing as well.
front brackets #88964166
rear brackets #88964167
GM Z51 Rotors
89060328 Front Brake Rotors
89060329 Rear Brake Rotors
Personally I don't like the GM rotors for a number of reasons. They cost more, they rust and they are not correctly drilled and slotted. I went with Rotors from Brake Motive and they work great. Contain zinc so they don't rust, are drilled and slotted correctly for right and left side, and best of all they are inexpensive.
Brake Motive C6 Z51 Rotors
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-...4AAOSwi1Zd6V9l
If you are going to track the car you probably want to go a different direction as the drilled brake rotors will crack. For spirited street driving or autocross this is an improvement over the base JL9 brakes that doesn't cost much.
If you are doing the work Dano suggests I would also swap my brake lines for stainless steel lines while I was swapping fluids and bleeding brakes. The SS brake lines will cost you another $100.
If nothing else the larger, drilled and slotted, shiny zinc coated rotors look a lot better then the plain and tarnished base JL9 rotors.
YMMV
front brackets #88964166
rear brackets #88964167
GM Z51 Rotors
89060328 Front Brake Rotors
89060329 Rear Brake Rotors
Personally I don't like the GM rotors for a number of reasons. They cost more, they rust and they are not correctly drilled and slotted. I went with Rotors from Brake Motive and they work great. Contain zinc so they don't rust, are drilled and slotted correctly for right and left side, and best of all they are inexpensive.
Brake Motive C6 Z51 Rotors
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-Drill-Slot-Brake-Rotors-And-Ceramic-Pads-For-Chevy-Vette-C6-XLR/391674283397?epid=633016486&hash=item5b3 19b4585:g
B4AAOSwi1Zd6V9lIf you are going to track the car you probably want to go a different direction as the drilled brake rotors will crack. For spirited street driving or autocross this is an improvement over the base JL9 brakes that doesn't cost much.
If you are doing the work Dano suggests I would also swap my brake lines for stainless steel lines while I was swapping fluids and bleeding brakes. The SS brake lines will cost you another $100.
If nothing else the larger, drilled and slotted, shiny zinc coated rotors look a lot better then the plain and tarnished base JL9 rotors.
YMMV





So if you are looking for rotors and caliper brackets, don't limit yourself to finding "Z51" parts, but look for "J55" parts instead.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
So if you are looking for rotors and caliper brackets, don't limit yourself to finding "Z51" parts, but look for "J55" parts instead.





I personally use the JL9 (aka base) rotors, drilled in the same pattern as J55 rotors. They're lighter and smaller, which makes them better for drag racing as opposed to road racing.
Strangely enough, the OEM J55 rotors don't have correct airflow for cooling. One front has correct rotation and the other is backwards. The rears are worse, since they draw air from the exterior and vent toward the interior right where the cooling duct is trying to force air in from the back side. Yet the JL9 rotors utilize an interior post construction rather than vanes and the unique placement creates proper airflow irrespective of rotation.
If you want the larger J55 size, it makes good sense to ensure the cooling airflow is correct for all 4 wheels.
I personally use the JL9 (aka base) rotors, drilled in the same pattern as J55 rotors. They're lighter and smaller, which makes them better for drag racing as opposed to road racing.
Strangely enough, the OEM J55 rotors don't have correct airflow for cooling. One front has correct rotation and the other is backwards. The rears are worse, since they draw air from the exterior and vent toward the interior right where the cooling duct is trying to force air in from the back side. Yet the JL9 rotors utilize an interior post construction rather than vanes and the unique placement creates proper airflow irrespective of rotation.
If you want the larger J55 size, it makes good sense to ensure the cooling airflow is correct for all 4 wheels.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/400895030923
Nothing wrong with the ceramic pads that come with the above rotors, low dust and work as good or better then stock... but if you are looking for a serious improvement over stock you might want to look at different pads.
If you don't plan on tracking the car the above is plenty and will look great.
Last edited by Iceaxe; Aug 4, 2020 at 11:14 PM.





One additional thing to note, and this ties into Dano523's warning about tires, is that the JL9 rear calipers have a slightly larger (45mm) piston than the ones used on the J55 rear calipers (42mm). GM did that to compensate for the 1" larger rear rotors. The front calipers for both JL9 and J55 are identical. Of course, GM didn't plan for a blower on that car either.

Make your tire selection carefully, according to how you intend to use the car.









Assuming you find both the Z51 and J55 codes, I can assure you the rotors you show in the photos are not OEM rotors. The width of the swept area by the pads appears to be correct, but OEM J55 rotors only have 2 rows of holes and the countersinks are not that deep. The physical size of the JL9 and J55 pads are identical, but the pad materials are different.
To avoid any future confusion, remember that Z51 is simply an option and not a model.





Assuming you find both the Z51 and J55 codes, I can assure you the rotors you show in the photos are not OEM rotors. The width of the swept area by the pads appears to be correct, but OEM J55 rotors only have 2 rows of holes and the countersinks are not that deep. The physical size of the JL9 and J55 pads are identical, but the pad materials are different.
To avoid any future confusion, remember that Z51 is simply an option and not a model.
It seems my only issue is that the rotor wear looks strange - and maybe that's just me. Brake function seems fine, I had it out on track this past weekend and even tried the ABS function a few times at 60 mph and all seemed fine. I'll plan to run these down and then replace.
I've noticed when shopping for brake pads such as Carbotech, Hawk, etc, there are listings for C6 base and a separate listing for C6 Z51. I don't recall which websites I was looking at but this made me think there was a physical difference.
While on the topic, is there a preferred brand of pad for track duty? I've seen a lot of mention of Carbotech XP10 & 8's. Do these squeal too much for occasional normal driving? Preferred pad vendor? I see KNS brakes on this forum and their prices seem fair with the comparing I've done. When replacing the rotors, do you recommend vented & drilled or vented only. Any particular rotor brand or vendor for quality & price?
I appreciate the info, my mind is at ease knowing what I've got here. Thanks again.





It seems my only issue is that the rotor wear looks strange - and maybe that's just me. Brake function seems fine, I had it out on track this past weekend and even tried the ABS function a few times at 60 mph and all seemed fine. I'll plan to run these down and then replace.
I've noticed when shopping for brake pads such as Carbotech, Hawk, etc, there are listings for C6 base and a separate listing for C6 Z51. I don't recall which websites I was looking at but this made me think there was a physical difference.
While on the topic, is there a preferred brand of pad for track duty? I've seen a lot of mention of Carbotech XP10 & 8's. Do these squeal too much for occasional normal driving? Preferred pad vendor? I see KNS brakes on this forum and their prices seem fair with the comparing I've done. When replacing the rotors, do you recommend vented & drilled or vented only. Any particular rotor brand or vendor for quality & price?
I appreciate the info, my mind is at ease knowing what I've got here. Thanks again.
Some things to consider when you get to the point of needing replacements. How much track time are you doing in relation to daily driving and which is more important to you. If track time wins that question, there are several options to improve upon the current setup with prices to match. Play with what you have, so you'll have a better idea of what you might need.











