So I know this Question has been asked about 5000 times and I did read 100 of the previous threads, some go back to 2011.
BUT ( yet another one ) being new to the LS family but not new to racing. I still didn't get a great idea on a Stall to start with on an otherwise stock LS3, except for E85 and catback exhaust.
The idea is it seems everyone's advice is do the convertor B4 the cam. AND that you cant get a decent say stage 2 cam and retain much drivability ( stop lights ) around town.
The last thing I want to do is ruin drivability. this is just a saturday cruise car. vacation car, Id like to put a mild cam in it and maybe a power adder later. Not trying to break any established records at the track.
What stall convertor and cam combo are some of you guys running in autos and primarily street driven, even a daily driven car that drives great. I ( we ) see alot of posts about Cams. Id like to see what convertor the auto guys are running with said Cam. if you have a Time slip too post it up. convertor specs/ cam specs/ et slip/ drivability/ Ls2 or 3? ..post it up!

 

ok i can just chime in with my own current situation... ok so my goals with my car which is an 08 A6 with just AR headers catted Xpipe and muffler delete, Haltech CAI and Tune now my issue is this do i go after the current FBO record which meant i needed a bigger stall now i dont mind because for 12 years i DD my 02 WS6 with a big *** cam and Yank 4k stall converter all over NTX but seeing that i drive to work now further than when i did it with my WS6 i wanted a little less stall speed so i battled with this for months just ask a few CF members on here lol i ended up with the Yank 3400 PAS so my current issue is to cam or not? i really want a stealthy cam mainly because i dont want my competition to now whats coming and there are alot of great choices out there and you should get alot of great input once people on here start chiming in, just remember a Yank or Circle D converter seems to be the two top dogs an good tranny cooler and pick your poisen with the cam just get a great tuner involved and you will be good to go so good luck and post up results if you will.

 

I have a stock head and cam GS with a supercharger and a set of headers.

I just had a Circle D 2,800 stall converter installed.

The converter puts a lot of power to the ground at launch ... and since my supercharger is of the roots type, the boost is almost instant ... The blower combined with the higher stall torque converter makes the car real hard to launch even with drag radials. It blows off the rear tires pretty quick.

I would not go with too high of a stall speed or it will effect driveability ... Your stock converter is only about a 1,600 stall unit, so going to even a 2,800 stall unit is a big change.

And as far as a cam change ... it's like anything else ... Don't go overboard on the cam or you will hurt driveability too. Lots of folks out there that find out after they have had there big cam installed, they wished they had gone with a little milder of a cam.

Moral of the story ... Don't go overboard and find out later on that you chose the wrong parts for your daily driver ... Remember, your C6 is not a trailored race car.

 

Oh, and if you are not going to install the converter yourself, figure about $1,000 or slightly more for the labor charge.

Not a cheap install and not an easy job on a C6.

 

amen!!!!!!!

 

My LS2 Vortech SI trim with Vigilante 3600 stall triple disc was $500. for the install and any one driving it on the street and not knowing the car would not realize there is a stall in it.It runs 1.30's 60 ft leaving at idle and not too difficult to launch without wheel spin

 

Very good !

Using a high stall converter really helps a centrifugal supercharger car right off idle since that type of supercharger takes awhile (needs higher RPM) for the boost to come up ... The converter brings the boost up faster

With a roots blower like I have, the boost comes up so fast off idle, that the high stall converter just makes things worse (as far a the initial launch of the car).

You got real lucky finding someone to install a converter for $500 .... I called all the shops that specialize in late model Corvettes within a 150 mile area of my home here in Florida, and the labor charge ranged from $1,000 to $1,500

 

BTW .... I used my 'Dragy' a couple of days ago and did a couple of 1/8 mile pulls on the street.

With a set of 305/45 -17 ET Street S/S drag radials @ 19 PSI and launching just off idle with traction control on ... the best I could get for a 60' time was 1.93 sec.

No way to stop the wheel spin unless I let off on the throttle ... Again, the combo of a roots blower and a high stall converter on a non-prepped country asphalt road don't equal a good launch at all.

Maybe on a drag strip it would be better ... with good traction, there is no reason this car shouldn't get a 60' time of at least 1.5 sec using 305/45 -17 drag radials.

 

The boost with the centrifugal is instant.The trick to launch the car is modulating the throttle on launch so you don't blow the tires off.Mine is making enough power in under 1 second to do a funny car burn out if that's what you want.Like I stated I leave at idle and any more than that would blow the tires off every time.Don't know why price's in your area would be so high for the install.Get your car to the track to find out what it will actually run