Torque converter question
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Orlando, FL
Torque converter question
Hello all, I've got a couple of questions about installing a torque converter on my 2006 base model. My next mod will be a nice can and supporting mods, I just wanted to prepare for it. Called a local shop that only works on vettes here in central FL, they said it'd be $950 to swap out my factory unit with a new one (Yank pas 3400 is what I'm thinking about going with.)
1.) Question is, do I need to have it tuned to accept the new torque converter or will the PCM figure it out on its own?
1.) Question is, do I need to have it tuned to accept the new torque converter or will the PCM figure it out on its own?
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,042
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From: Central MO
Hello all, I've got a couple of questions about installing a torque converter on my 2006 base model. My next mod will be a nice can and supporting mods, I just wanted to prepare for it. Called a local shop that only works on vettes here in central FL, they said it'd be $950 to swap out my factory unit with a new one (Yank pas 3400 is what I'm thinking about going with.)
1.) Question is, do I need to have it tuned to accept the new torque converter or will the PCM figure it out on its own?
1.) Question is, do I need to have it tuned to accept the new torque converter or will the PCM figure it out on its own?
Last edited by BadAV; Sep 10, 2020 at 07:53 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Orlando, FL
I am planning on getting it tuned. I found two great tuners in the Tampa FL area, haven't decided yet who to go with. It's just that the shop who is installing the TC doesn't offer tuning. I asked my question because I would still have to drive my car two hours away to get to the tuner. I didn't know if the PCM would freak out or not and start throwing all kinds of codes and check engine light. I just bought headers and a cold air intake so I figured I get all three put on before I got it tuned.
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From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I just had a Circle-D 2,800 stall converter installed in my GS ... I don't plan on locking the converter at WOT so I opted for the standard single clutch / disk converter. (A multi-disk converter is only needed if you desire to lock the clutch at WOT).
Since the lock-up feature of this converter will act just like it did with the stock converter, I did not find it necessary to do any additional tuning after installing the converter.
This converter launches much harder than the stock 1,600 stall converter .... great mod !
BTW ... If my car did not have a roots type blower (almost instant boost off-idle), I would have installed somewhere around a 3,200 stall converter, but with the the combo of a PD supercharger and a higher stall converter, I felt that a 2,800 stall speed would be more than enough ... it still gets a lot of tire spin at launch even with drag radials.
Since the lock-up feature of this converter will act just like it did with the stock converter, I did not find it necessary to do any additional tuning after installing the converter.
This converter launches much harder than the stock 1,600 stall converter .... great mod !
BTW ... If my car did not have a roots type blower (almost instant boost off-idle), I would have installed somewhere around a 3,200 stall converter, but with the the combo of a PD supercharger and a higher stall converter, I felt that a 2,800 stall speed would be more than enough ... it still gets a lot of tire spin at launch even with drag radials.
Race Director
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From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
You will find most of the cars that are used a lot for drag racing will lock the converter's lock-up clutch at WOT in order to get more HP to the ground.
As you know, your stock converter C6 when cruising, goes into lock up which lowers the revs and increases gas mileage. Push down on the throttle a little, and it comes out of lock up. This is ideal for a car that is used mainly for normal type driving.
If you have pretty much a dedicated drag race car, get a multi-disc lock up converter that will allow lock up at WOT.
For pretty much a daily / weekend driver, get a single clutch (disk) converter that acts just like your stock converter (but has a much higher stall speed).
I am no expert, but that's the best I can tell you from my experience.
As you know, your stock converter C6 when cruising, goes into lock up which lowers the revs and increases gas mileage. Push down on the throttle a little, and it comes out of lock up. This is ideal for a car that is used mainly for normal type driving.
If you have pretty much a dedicated drag race car, get a multi-disc lock up converter that will allow lock up at WOT.
For pretty much a daily / weekend driver, get a single clutch (disk) converter that acts just like your stock converter (but has a much higher stall speed).
I am no expert, but that's the best I can tell you from my experience.
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From: Orlando, FL
Thank you so much for the info! Much appreciated! Now is a single disk converter, non-lockup? Also, hows the driveability now with the higher stall? Back in the day I had an 1993 Supercharged Vette and I had a Vigilante 3000 stall converter put in. It felt like a slipping trans. At a red light, I could take my foot off the brake and the car wouldn't move.
Last edited by Chokeu; Sep 10, 2020 at 10:53 AM.
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Race Director
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Central MO
Thank you so much for the info! Much appreciated! Now is a single disk converter, non-lockup? Also, hows the driveability now with the higher stall? Back in the day I had an 1993 Supercharged Vette and I had a Vigilante 3000 stall converter put in. It felt like a slipping trans. At a red light, I could take my foot off the brake and the car wouldn't move.
You can drive the car to the tuner (or for as long as you want) without tuning and it won't hurt anything. You just might not be happy with how it shifts.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Now is a single disk converter, non-lockup?
Also, hows the driveability now with the higher stall?
Back in the day I had an 1993 Supercharged Vette and I had a Vigilante 3000 stall converter put in. It felt like a slipping trans. At a red light, I could take my foot off the brake and the car wouldn't move.
Your aftermarket single disk converters are exactly the same as the stock converter, except that they will have a higher stall speed of your choice, and much better billet materials in them (capable of handling more HP)
If you want a [quality] converter, get a Yank, Circle-D, TCI or Precision Vigilante
Driveability is no problem unless you get too loose of a converter ... Again, mine is a 2,800 stall which is a big difference from the 1,600-1,800 stall in the OEM converter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2011
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From: Oshawa, Ontario
Vigilante converters are historically a "loose" converter, which is what gives you that slipping feeling. If you buy a "tight" converter it doesn't do that. I had a Yank TT2600 in my supercharged, fully built 2002 Avalanche. It was a tight converter and you really couldn't tell it was there during daily driving. Stomp the gas and flash the converter, and you got a big smile on your face.
You can drive the car to the tuner (or for as long as you want) without tuning and it won't hurt anything. You just might not be happy with how it shifts.
You can drive the car to the tuner (or for as long as you want) without tuning and it won't hurt anything. You just might not be happy with how it shifts.
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From: Orlando, FL