Brakes and Rotors. Has anyone used these?
11-01-2020, 05:36 PM
#1
Brakes and Rotors. Has anyone used these?
11-10-2020, 05:17 PM
#5
Very reputable. Very well known. Good price, good quality. You can't go wrong.
11-10-2020, 11:51 PM
#6
They are a good brand like others said, but I've had these installed on my car, just switched them out to their track Day pad. They were great for daily driving, especially for the price. They hardly dust, no noise. Never saw any cracking in the rotors. Maybe less initial bite than the OE brake is the only negative I can think of.
11-11-2020, 06:03 PM
#7
Form over Function,
On a base car, will Pretty it up without lose, but on a Z51 car, step in the wrong direction.
Hence on the rotors, drilled will off-gas a lot better than slotted, but drilled rotors will spider crank when heated to high speed road course temp instead.
So for just road type driving temps, want drilled for better off gassing, while for road course work, want slotted that are not going to spider crack from heat isntead.
As for plated, will help to prevent rust longer in the none pad contact areas, but plating in the pad contact areas will be removed by the pads. Hence may luck out and wear the plating off fast and even enough that not problem, while has seen some rotor platting at the pad area chip off in flakes to cause braking problems instead. So on that note, prefer that the one piece rotors are just chemical treated like nitrated, that will accept a good paint type coating, and which you can leave the pad areas un-coated to wear naturally.
As for pads, pretty much just basic ceramic pads, so less initial bite, less pedal feel feed back, and no where near the working temps of say OEM agressive semi metalic HD pads. Hence those pads are on pair with just the C6 base pads, or better yet, the Duralast pads that you can get front and back pads for under $100 for all 4 wheels.
On a base car, will Pretty it up without lose, but on a Z51 car, step in the wrong direction.
Hence on the rotors, drilled will off-gas a lot better than slotted, but drilled rotors will spider crank when heated to high speed road course temp instead.
So for just road type driving temps, want drilled for better off gassing, while for road course work, want slotted that are not going to spider crack from heat isntead.
As for plated, will help to prevent rust longer in the none pad contact areas, but plating in the pad contact areas will be removed by the pads. Hence may luck out and wear the plating off fast and even enough that not problem, while has seen some rotor platting at the pad area chip off in flakes to cause braking problems instead. So on that note, prefer that the one piece rotors are just chemical treated like nitrated, that will accept a good paint type coating, and which you can leave the pad areas un-coated to wear naturally.
As for pads, pretty much just basic ceramic pads, so less initial bite, less pedal feel feed back, and no where near the working temps of say OEM agressive semi metalic HD pads. Hence those pads are on pair with just the C6 base pads, or better yet, the Duralast pads that you can get front and back pads for under $100 for all 4 wheels.
11-11-2020, 10:57 PM
#8
Racer
I'm really enjoying owning and driving my Vette, Dano. I am able to do nearly all of the work required, and I like the few simple mods I've done. Thanks! for getting me started with it.
I recently discovered that Les Schwab tire centers are happy to mount tires on wheels for me, and are able to do alignments. Nice folks to work with.
I recently discovered that Les Schwab tire centers are happy to mount tires on wheels for me, and are able to do alignments. Nice folks to work with.
11-12-2020, 01:32 AM
#9
I'm really enjoying owning and driving my Vette, Dano. I am able to do nearly all of the work required, and I like the few simple mods I've done. Thanks! for getting me started with it.
I recently discovered that Les Schwab tire centers are happy to mount tires on wheels for me, and are able to do alignments. Nice folks to work with.
I recently discovered that Les Schwab tire centers are happy to mount tires on wheels for me, and are able to do alignments. Nice folks to work with.
Do they have a Tech II or some other reader, or their tire alignment machine able to read the steering wheel position sensor so they have the steering wheel reading Zero at the same time as the tires reading zero on the machine.
Hence used to be problems with getting cars aligned at shops that could not read the steering wheel sensor to keep the wheel at Zero during the front end alignment, and the best solution to the problem, was to just take your own to let them use it, or end up with the steering wheel position sensor/steering wheel slightly off when the car was going straight down the road isntead. Hence when the machine does it's final print out, nice to have the Tech II on the car if the machine can not read the sensor, so you know that the steering wheel is reading Zero at the same time the front tires are as well.
As for my personal favorite shop for alignments, there is a Meineke down the road a few miles that I trust their work.
For rotor turning (even drilled for $15 each), have a Oreilly a few blocks away, but dialed the lads in on how to turn drilled rotors in the first place to start with (including turning the drum lips on the back side so E brake shoe adjustments are a snap). Hell, they even turned vezePilot rotors when he bought his car over so could do a brake job on it a while back.
Note, all shops are different, so just because I trust my local lads at these shops, does not mean that you can trust these same shops with different lads in your areas. As stated, when I need my drilled rotors turned, took the time to dial in the shop on method to do such with dampening belt and shallow cuts per pass due to the interrupted cuts (don't have a lathe at the house big enough to turn them myself), and would bank that If I took a set of drilled rotors to an Oriley across town, may be told that they can not turn them (since they have broken too many cutter tips from taking too deep of cuts), or end up with the surfaces chatter city to hell from them turned without a dampening belt installed/ the rotors having too much vibration from the interrupted cuts if not dampened.
11-12-2020, 03:45 PM
#10
Form over Function,
On a base car, will Pretty it up without lose, but on a Z51 car, step in the wrong direction.
Hence on the rotors, drilled will off-gas a lot better than slotted, but drilled rotors will spider crank when heated to high speed road course temp instead.
So for just road type driving temps, want drilled for better off gassing, while for road course work, want slotted that are not going to spider crack from heat isntead.
As for plated, will help to prevent rust longer in the none pad contact areas, but plating in the pad contact areas will be removed by the pads. Hence may luck out and wear the plating off fast and even enough that not problem, while has seen some rotor platting at the pad area chip off in flakes to cause braking problems instead. So on that note, prefer that the one piece rotors are just chemical treated like nitrated, that will accept a good paint type coating, and which you can leave the pad areas un-coated to wear naturally.
As for pads, pretty much just basic ceramic pads, so less initial bite, less pedal feel feed back, and no where near the working temps of say OEM agressive semi metalic HD pads. Hence those pads are on pair with just the C6 base pads, or better yet, the Duralast pads that you can get front and back pads for under $100 for all 4 wheels.
On a base car, will Pretty it up without lose, but on a Z51 car, step in the wrong direction.
Hence on the rotors, drilled will off-gas a lot better than slotted, but drilled rotors will spider crank when heated to high speed road course temp instead.
So for just road type driving temps, want drilled for better off gassing, while for road course work, want slotted that are not going to spider crack from heat isntead.
As for plated, will help to prevent rust longer in the none pad contact areas, but plating in the pad contact areas will be removed by the pads. Hence may luck out and wear the plating off fast and even enough that not problem, while has seen some rotor platting at the pad area chip off in flakes to cause braking problems instead. So on that note, prefer that the one piece rotors are just chemical treated like nitrated, that will accept a good paint type coating, and which you can leave the pad areas un-coated to wear naturally.
As for pads, pretty much just basic ceramic pads, so less initial bite, less pedal feel feed back, and no where near the working temps of say OEM agressive semi metalic HD pads. Hence those pads are on pair with just the C6 base pads, or better yet, the Duralast pads that you can get front and back pads for under $100 for all 4 wheels.
11-12-2020, 09:45 PM
#11
Because no one in their right mind is going to use those rotors for high speed road course work to begin with, where you are glowing the rotors pretty much all the way around the track for the heavy brake use each corner dive/weight transfer.
So what you are seeing, is OEM Z51 rotors that are drilled for autocross work since it just single laps that are run that you will get the rotors slightly higher than street temp use, being used for high speed road course work that the rotors are pretty much glowing from much harder.longer use around the track, well above street/auto temp use instead.
And trust me, catching the problem at drill channel spider cracking, is a hell of lot better than going too long where the rotor just fully cracks isntead.
And we use the term "street use" for mostly "flat landers", since if you are mountain driving at even normal speeds with long down slop parts on the highway and roads where you are into the brakes for longer duration, can get the rotors to auto cross use heat, and higher temps, just driving the car at normal speeds with all the extra brake use.
Last edited by Dano523; 11-12-2020 at 09:46 PM.