Guidance, LS7 Block Build....
1- 2007 LS7 full short block / 7800 miles on her
The motor is running mint but will not be able to go further with power.
2- Current modifications to the car, Kooks Headers w/ full exhaust, Intake, Nick Williams 102mm tb, Mamo ported MSD intake.
Mast Motorsports 305cc Heads, large camshaft, 65lb injectors, ATI balancer.
3- i plan to add boost even at a lower amount with depending on tuning. I'm not looking to build a 1200whp drag car. It's my street car that I take to car shows and rip once it a while. Heck, it has 7800 miles on it. 2007 Z06.
4- I'm looking at Darton Sleeveing 4.125 / 4.000 and having the shop do the machining. Or buy one outright from TSP. That becomes the same price in the end. Then I could sell mine if someone wanted a really nice block. I'm also looking at wiesco LS7 pistons that utilize the stock rod. Then putting it back together with the needed new parts it takes. Next it will get a new procharger kit and I'll be keeping boost pressures down through pulleys and tuning.
do you experienced guys have any real life input? Not to hear someone say, as advice, "LSX block" or "build the whole motor" money is always an issue when you have a wife and 2 kids.
thank you guys. I appreciate it. I'm going to be buying what I need real soon. This is not just a boredom thread by some 17 year old with a dream.
Last edited by gordonjw86; Dec 4, 2020 at 01:07 AM.
also if you do machine your block. looks for new rods. i have seen other threads of the TI rods wearing the anti friction coating off and spinning a bearing. but you only have 7800 miles on it so...
Good luck
aftermarket crank with the center counterbancers to keep bearing wear to a minimum, keyed also for the supercharger, instead of the hokey **** the supercharger kit comes with, this will require a keyed damper to match.
Sale your stock titanium rods, go to a good quality I-beam rated to 1000+hp in case you want to turn up the power down the road
diamond or cp forged pistons, I believe they are the best imo
Ferrea 4042 exhaust valves, stock titanium intakes
Johnson drop in lifters
Arp main studs with a quality line hone
arp head studs, might consider a o-ring setup if going with sleeves in case of any movement under extreme power it will add insurance.
fuel system(e85) and clutch with higher hp rating than your shooting for in case again u decide to turn up the power
Stick with the oem water pump as I wouldn't trust a electric water pump to remove the extra heat of a supercharged engine.
Hood vents to help with heat soak, because its going to get smoking under the hood with how well sealed the vette engine bay is.
oversized radiator unless u go with e85
high amp altinator to ensure it has the energy to supply a big fuel system you will need under wot.
Catch can
2 inch headers
Full roller rockers to keep the valves and guides in good shape, unless you are running a near stock lift cam.
oem intake to hold the boost, or a sheet metal intake
I don't feel the msd is up to par for big boost now having one on my NA car.
Upgraded half shafts
Rear dif support regardless if your launching it or not with that much power
bfg g-force drag radials, had these on a car with 600 pounds of torque and dead hooked in first, note they suck in corners
I plan on doing a forced induction setup down the road
Last edited by Banshee10mill; Dec 7, 2020 at 01:15 AM.
That what I do.
I would price out the cost of taking my existing block, sleeving it, and building it. I'd then look at what a fully built one would cost me. Because my engine is so low mileage, I'd see what the sale price of it is as a stock long block, subtract that from the built engine cost and I'd see which route would cost me less.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
A simple bottom end refresh forged pistons only build is all you need. Get a good piston/rings and pins. Go back with coated bearing and use ARP rods bolts main cap bolts and head studs 👌🏻 that will hold a lot of power, way more then your asking about.
or sell the engine like you mentioned and go with a TSP set up, two best options in my opinion.
remember you already have forged rods and crank from the factory, sure there are better aftermarket forged cranks but the stock crank will hold a lot of power, pistons/rings/pins are the weak link followed by the bearings and rod bolts, the factory cam material is also kinda shitty a cam motion 8620 core is the way to go 👌🏻
Last edited by 73DBG; Dec 10, 2020 at 12:16 AM.
Last edited by jonjoy; Dec 13, 2020 at 03:56 PM.
Now what I find most hilarious about your “suggestions” is using GM as the all knowing subject matter expert when coming up with your “best engine for boost theory” yet completely missing that the same peeps that made that engine did the LS7 heads...real god damn geniuses over there at GM. Pure brilliance 🧐
Now what I find most hilarious about your “suggestions” is using GM as the all knowing subject matter expert when coming up with your “best engine for boost theory” yet completely missing that the same peeps that made that engine did the LS7 heads...real god damn geniuses over there at GM. Pure brilliance 🧐



















