The Hood Release in my 07 Base has broken. I have not seen this issue discussed before. I cannot open the hood in order to attach my Battery Tender during cold weather.

I would like to ask if anyone knows the correct Name of this part, so that I can search and find a replacement. See photo attached.

Thanks!!!

 

Well, I guess it's called the ... Hood Release. They have it at CariD, Amazon, PartsGeek, Ecklers ... even Home Depot. Sorry about posting before research.

 

Chevrolet part number is

15209368 and is less than $40.00

 

I’m pretty sure rockauto has them

 

There does not seem to be a utoob video regarding Hood Release replacement in a C6. If it works out, I'll make one and post it (PSA).

 

Walk in the park,

Release the hood to have it up, then go to the end point of the cable on both latches, and release the ball end from the latch lever. If you are struggling to get the cable off the latch lever with it pulled more open, then you can use a screw driver to release the plastic end housing clip to pull it away from the lever housing, and angle the cable with end ball out of the lever slot. Normaly, the latch release can be pulled outward enough and will have enough excess cable room to pull the end ***** out of the latch lever slot, but some times on newer cables, have to hold your tongue in the right way to pull it off if you don't want to have to use remove the plastic housing end from the lever housing isntead.
Note, small piece of wire to hold the latch lever all the way pulled in, will free up both hands to angle the cable through the lever slot;

Attachment 48339855


Now with the end ***** released from the hood latches both sides, go back to the hood lever housing inside the car, remove the screw to you can pull the housing slightly outward, release there end ***** from the lever, and you can now remove the lever housing from the car.

Put the new lever housing in place, attach the end ***** in place, go back to the latch ends to put the those end ***** back in the latch levers, and bolt the lever housing back in place with the screw. If needed and you pulled the lever housings a touch to far to get the ball end out of the lever, just pull the the cable housings at the firewall on the driver side to pull the excess slack back towards the motor, to allow the lever housing to push in place to get the screw back in.

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As for lever housing back in place, but just seems like you have to pull the lever too far to unlock the hood, or hood latches do not fire open at the same time, easy to solve that cable stretch problem as well.

Down dirty, you can use some Split ring washers on the end cable ***** crimped inwards so they stay on the cables, to space the end ball farther off the latch lever to take up some slack. Hence may need just one on the driver side, while on the longer passenger side, may need to add in two to take the excess slack of the longer cable stretch.
Hence lever housing back in, and ball end on hood latch lever with it back to it released position with the hood back up, just see what cable space needs to be taking up to so the cable ball ends do not have a tone of excess slack off the face of the latch lever surfaces.
Attachment 48339856

Myself since I do have a lathe and mill , I measure that need spacer take up distance for each lever due to cable stretch, and them make split ring spacer of the needed thickness to add-crimp down on the cable ends to the latch side end ***** so I don't need a lot of lever pull to release the hood, as well as get the latches to fire open at the same time of the lever pull as well.
Attachment 48339857

Hence look close and you can see the slip ring spacer added to the cable.
Attachment 48339855

And yes, if you want to make the trip down, can measure and make you up some cable end spacers to take car of the cable streach, and get the lathes to fire both at the same time of lever pull with min lever pull.

As for why GM did not put cable adjusters on the cables so they could be adjusted at the latch lever as the cables stretched, best guess, so they could sell more cables as they stretched and would be too long for the lever to pull the cables enough to release the hood isntead.

I did the spacer trick on mine, but if I need to do add in thicker spacers any time soon, will just be mod'g the cable end and latch housing to take adjusters isntead.



Once last thing, and if you need to remove the latch from the fender wall, use a sharpy or thicker pencil to outline the latches to the fender wall, so you bolt them back on place the same locations that you removed them. If you don't do the outline, will spend a hour loosening and re-tightening the latch bolts on latch shift adjustments, to get them adjusted again perfectly again.

Hence pretty sure that the assembly line has a special gauge they use to adjust the latches when they are building the body, or just leave the latches bolt loose, gauge the hood with it closed on the body, and have someone go up and tighten the latch bolts to have the latches perfect before the motor/drive line is installed in the body. Hence adjusting the latches from the top with hood openings and closings to get them perfect blindly, is a pain in the **** to start with, so make sure to outline the latch on the fender wall if you need to remove the latches, so you can bolt them right back to the same location pulled them from to start with.