Mighty Mouse Catch Can - Installed
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With the dry sump oil system on the LS7, it is essentially a vacuum pump on the crankcase. Wet sump engines are not this way.
So, the crank case pressure at the valley port should be pretty low at idle, and probably close to zero or negative at high RPM because of the scavenging action of the dry sump pump.
Is the valley port lower pressure than the intake manifold vacuum at idle? Not sure, probably depends on the camshaft, but the intake system may draw oil in at idle with a big cam, because the intake is lower pressure than the crankcase.
At WOT we know the intake pressure is close to zero, but the valley may be low as well since the dry sump pump is spinning fast and is pulling oil and pressure out, however piston/rig blow by is high.
The factory dry sump tank is essentially a giant catch can/oil separator/reservoir in itself, that is its purpose.
If the object is to keep oil out of the intake system, why wouldn't I just cap the intake port and the valley port, and let the dry sump pump scavenge the crank case, and let the dry sump tank do its job?
I am not convinced the differential pressures between the intake port and the valley port, with a dry sump oiling system justify a catch can separator system.
What is the risk of just blocking off the two ports?
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With the dry sump oil system on the LS7, it is essentially a vacuum pump on the crankcase. Wet sump engines are not this way.
So, the crank case pressure at the valley port should be pretty low at idle, and probably close to zero or negative at high RPM because of the scavenging action of the dry sump pump.
Is the valley port lower pressure than the intake manifold vacuum at idle? Not sure, probably depends on the camshaft, but the intake system may draw oil in at idle with a big cam, because the intake is lower pressure than the crankcase.
At WOT we know the intake pressure is close to zero, but the valley may be low as well since the dry sump pump is spinning fast and is pulling oil and pressure out, however piston/rig blow by is high.
The factory dry sump tank is essentially a giant catch can/oil separator/reservoir in itself, that is its purpose.
If the object is to keep oil out of the intake system, why wouldn't I just cap the intake port and the valley port, and let the dry sump pump scavenge the crank case, and let the dry sump tank do its job?
I am not convinced the differential pressures between the intake port and the valley port, with a dry sump oiling system justify a catch can separator system.
What is the risk of just blocking off the two ports?
With the dry sump oil system on the LS7, it is essentially a vacuum pump on the crankcase. Wet sump engines are not this way.
So, the crank case pressure at the valley port should be pretty low at idle, and probably close to zero or negative at high RPM because of the scavenging action of the dry sump pump.
Is the valley port lower pressure than the intake manifold vacuum at idle? Not sure, probably depends on the camshaft, but the intake system may draw oil in at idle with a big cam, because the intake is lower pressure than the crankcase.
At WOT we know the intake pressure is close to zero, but the valley may be low as well since the dry sump pump is spinning fast and is pulling oil and pressure out, however piston/rig blow by is high.
The factory dry sump tank is essentially a giant catch can/oil separator/reservoir in itself, that is its purpose.
If the object is to keep oil out of the intake system, why wouldn't I just cap the intake port and the valley port, and let the dry sump pump scavenge the crank case, and let the dry sump tank do its job?
I am not convinced the differential pressures between the intake port and the valley port, with a dry sump oiling system justify a catch can separator system.
What is the risk of just blocking off the two ports?
I haven’t seen the inside of your can but I strongly suspect with that filter on your can you are introducing unmetered air into the engine. Have you seen a lean cel or have you scanned it and noticed increased fuel trims? Also, because of that filter you have eliminated the Positive Crankcase Ventilation, because the engine will draw clean air from the filter rather than drawing on the crankcase...I personally like drawing the PCV to burn the blow by which keeps the engine clean inside, eliminating sludge.
This is deja vu for me....I used to run a filter style can and had that problem, my oil got black in no time, I got a po174 lean code plus the filter would let oil smell get into my HVAC inlet right by where your can is. I swapped to a can with no filter which took care of all problems - if you get these problems you might try replacing the filter with a plug.
I haven’t seen the inside of your can but I strongly suspect with that filter on your can you are introducing unmetered air into the engine. Have you seen a lean cel or have you scanned it and noticed increased fuel trims? Also, because of that filter you have eliminated the Positive Crankcase Ventilation, because the engine will draw clean air from the filter rather than drawing on the crankcase...I personally like drawing the PCV to burn the blow by which keeps the engine clean inside, eliminating sludge.
This is deja vu for me....I used to run a filter style can and had that problem, my oil got black in no time, I got a po174 lean code plus the filter would let oil smell get into my HVAC inlet right by where your can is. I swapped to a can with no filter which took care of all problems - if you get these problems you might try replacing the filter with a plug.





Check out the Mighty Mouse website for lots of information on different crankcase ventilation systems and catch can setups
Catch Can | LSX | Mopar | Ford | Mightymouse Solutions | Virginia, USA
Check out the Mighty Mouse website for lots of information on different crankcase ventilation systems and catch can setups
Catch Can | LSX | Mopar | Ford | Mightymouse Solutions | Virginia, USA
If it has one, that would prevent the problems that I had with my can with filter which had no check valve. Looks like a nice clean install.


Filtered outside air is pulled into the engine's crankcase via the small hose attached in the rubber accordion bellows just downstream of the engine's air intake air filter ... not through the filter on top of the catch can.
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Last edited by Turbo6TA; Jan 2, 2021 at 04:27 PM.
Filtered outside air is pulled into the engine's crankcase via the small hose attached in the rubber accordion bellows just downstream of the engine's air intake air filter ... not through the filter on top of the catch can.
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I couldn’t see the one way disk on the filter/can combo that the OP has. That will take care of the problems I listed, except for the release of oil vapor into the HVAC intake, but I would suggest that is rare and not really an issue. Without that one way disk, you’ll have the issues I listed, I know from experience.
Last edited by Joe_G; Jan 2, 2021 at 05:41 PM.


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Dirty crankcase fumes are sucked in from the valley cover barb and into the catch can
Then the 'cleaned' crankcase fumes are pulled into the vacuum port of the intake manifold (on the intake side of the throttle body)
Of course this air needs to be always replaced with clean fresh air .. which is provided by a filter in the valve cover.
During idle and normal part throttle operation and cruise, there will always be vacuum to keep a steady flow of fresh air throughout the crankcase and into the intake manifold (of course 'cleaned' by the catch can).
But, if under full throttle operation (especially in high HP engines) there can be a situation where pressure tends to build quickly in the crankcase due to piston ring blow-by ... this excess pressure is relieved through that filter in the valve cover (saving crankshaft seals).
Attachment 48332676
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Fresh air inlet breather / filter installed in a set of Holley 'tall' LS valve covers (wet sump LS3)
Last edited by Turbo6TA; Jan 2, 2021 at 07:06 PM.












