I’ve a 2010 C6 Vette GS M6. I recently grabbed a header setup from American Racing Headers (ARH)…ie: Headers (1.875” primaries), Catted X-pipe along with standard 3”x 2.5” pipes to mate-up with my stock NPP. I have yet to install this system, thus I’ve no idea if the install will be as painless or as painful as whatever web source one decides to believe, but whatever the case, I am not concerned. This post is simply to provide my experience with this purchase, provide pictures and also the follow-up support I received from ARHs.

My order arrived on schedule, and undamaged, but to my dis-appointment it did not contain the Catted x-pipe I’d ordered (it had the off-road style). I immediately called ARH to arrange a swap for the correct one. An individual named ‘Sal’ picked up; I explained things, he asked questions about the part number I’d ordered, where I purchased it, and text him pictures showing him the label on the box and the x-pipe..etc. Upon seeing the pics he called, saying they’d certainly get the proper x-pipe out to me right away, very sorry about that, …etc… plus of course I’d need to send them the one I had. In all, it took perhaps 15 minutes from start to finish and I had a shipping label sitting in my email - just like that! Wow!

The Catted x-pipe arrived about 6 days later, looked great, but there was a problem = no O2 sensor plugs! I’m going to delete those during my tune, so back on the phone with Sal. I explained, and he said sorry but that’s the way they’re sold, no plugs. We chatted about it, and he said they don’t normally supply those, but given the situation, he’d go ahead and have two sent my way – just awesome service!

In the meantime I gave the headers a critical examination, as I’d seen other brands with cracks in the tight bends (usually inferior material), or in the welds at the flange (shallow welds or over-ground), and others things. Indeed, my ARH headers were everything I’d hoped for! I was especially surprised by how light they were, given there’s a lot of metal there. But all the welds were quite sound, bends nice and smooth, the merge collectors and even the merge spikes… everything was as it should be, and for this price point I’d expect nothing less, but ya never know. Once installed and on the dyno, I'll know the rest of this story, whihc is hopefully a very happy ending.

Yes, I know there are other fine header systems out there, for I studied all of them for quite some time! The other popular name brands have their own subtle differences, but in the end they all make ‘relatively’ the same power as the ARH, honestly, but final power depends a lot on the tune and if there are additional mods. I chose ARH NOT because they’re necessarily ‘vastly better’ than the others, but because my tuner really gushes about them, about their ease of install, make great power…etc, and I also just happened to come across a Black Friday special I could not ignore. He noted he’s installed many different header brands on C6 Vettes, but the ARH always installed with little to no drama, were a nice design, fit well at the joints, rarely leaked and consistently made great power with minimal tuning. I’m a show-me kinda guy, so we will see.

I could share my opinion about Primary lengths and diameters.... but this forum is riddled with countless posts and ongoing debates about that. Look: I have an LS3, will be doing a SpinMonster build, and you can see what I chose. I could have chosen any other system, varied header designs, diameters, lengths... etc.. ARH. Done.

I’m posting this just to show the pictures and share my experience. I took pictures of things I’ve not found on the web before, so perhaps these will be illuminating for some. I’m not bashing any other header maker out there, I’m not about that. I’ll be doing the install myself probably next summer, and will take pictures, and do a post about that as well. My many thanks to Sal and those involved back at ARHs for the prompt support and great customer service.

This is a web-shot for a Z06, but it shows basically what I got.

Da-Headers!


Nice welds at the flange, top & bottom.

Nice merge collector profile!

Inside the collector, there's the merge spike.

Just measuring the primary lengths, working my way around the header, all; 4 pipes. See the next 3 pics for the others.




Then the 9" collector. There's a lot of metal with any header system, but the catted x-pipe was heavier than the header, ha...

Catted x-pipe before I installed the O2 sensor plugs. Short Cats... they must work.

Left x-pipe; merge hole. The Catts in the back-ground.

Right side with merge hole.

There's an ARH Cat. The weld blob is for the O2 bung. The Cats are shorty-short! Makes one wonder how they can do much, but as long as they eliminate that gassy exhaust smell, that's all I care about. Plus, my Stainless Exh Tips stay clean, and not black like a chimney.

 

I had an extremely good experience with ARH as well, my first contact was on a Sunday. I had emailed them as I was debating a 2" header upgrade to my LS3 416 stroker & Nick replied. We had a telephone conversation discussing the 1 7/8 vs 2.0, @ my power level I decided to give the 2" a try. I asked if it was preferred to order direct or thru a dealer, he was very professional supporting his dealers so I order thru a big name shop.

Not remembering my base model vert was already equipped with Z06 LG Pro's & a full 3" exhaust I ordered a base model ARH 2.0", catted 3.0". Came with 2.5" connection pipes rather than 3" Z06 mufflers. That proved a challenge for the selling dealer to understand what was wrong & Sal @ ARH treated me like I was complete moron. Living in a very rural area, there are no custom muffler shop that were capable of bending 3" stainless. I could have butchered up the various connection pipes I had & cobbled something that would work......I'm not like that LOL!

This happened mid summer, car was apart & I'm located in the great White North. I was getting desperate & finally emailed Nick again, he had been very helpful back when I made my first contact. He looked @ the photo's I had sent everyone else, that would be Sal & the selling dealer. Nick figured out I had 2.5" connection pipes, not the 3.0" Z06 connection pipes. Immediately offered to take back the 2.5" pipes & get me the correct ones. Due to border delays I choose to purchase outright the correct pipes & within 3 weeks the car was back together.

When I installed the headers one tube was touching the frame ever so slightly, I made a small dimple & had a little clearance. Thinking how the motor might move under load I thought it would be OK. Well these power trains with the torque tube move differently & the very first dyno run was plagued with KR. I immediately knew what was causing it, stuffed some header wrap between the tube & the frame & changed the KR that was occurring.

Where this contact area was, a spot that was difficult to see never mind a simple clean solution. Once again I got a hold of Nick, he immediately wanted the header back. He said they would fix or replace it & cover ll the shipping costs both ways. As soon as the header arrived @ there place the shop was on it, I had marked the contact area. They went to there local Corvette shop & checked out another Z06 with the same headers & sent me photo's of that. They built a new header immediately, double checking in there jig the fit.

The season was over by the time I rx'd the new header & installed it. Just the way the replacement installed it was different & it now has clearance @ the offending area. Nick is a true professional & help me solve this in the best possible manner.

 

Wow! I was starting to get stressed just reading that! I am surprised that Sal didn't understand the issue, unless you ordered the wrong pipes in your kit? I've no idea of course, but if that was the case, and you were asking for free service, that may be why there was resistance..?... no idea, just glad it was eventually corrected. My first picture (above) show the pipes you want, vs the 2.5" reduced versions I have.

2" headers, lord those are fatties, ha.. geez is there any low end tq at all?, ha, ha... I actually had a discussion with my tuner about folks using 2" headers on the C6. He basically said if you're stroked big or blown with a heathy sized cam, yes it will free-up some power above 5,000, but it's a real challenge for a header mfg to bend everything 'just right' to fit those big pipes in that little area. He did say he's installed many 2" ARH sets on big-build track cars (no street), and it's just a tight fit to install, but he never mentioned anything rubbing or contact issues.

Dents: I saw a video not long ago where a shop had an engine on the dyno and did pulls while progressively applying dents to the headers..ie: make a pull, make a couple dents, do another pull, then add some more dents...etc.. I was astonished to see in the end that very VERY little power-loss was observed, even though there were plenty of dents, some deep. Dents will be a hot spot, so obviously those areas will be the first to show stress fatigue and possible cracking over time. I saw a post & pics a few years back where a header (TxSpd) had been crunched badly (crunch and scrape), and the pipe was about 40% flattened! The owner said he had no loss in 'seat of the pants power', and just left it that way, ha... so headers are a fascinating topic indeed.

For me, knowing what I know now, and if my headers I have some kind of 'very minor' frame contact when I do my install; I'll be fashioning a modestly domed wooden dent forming tool, strategically place it on the pipe on the exact contact spot, and gain the clearance I need..ie: give'r a couple soft whacks! Yeah baby! Done & Done. AND THEN have them ceramic coated for good measure.

 

I’ve had both ARH and Kooks. Kooks fit better by far. With the ARH, I had to bend a pinch weld for enough clearance on the passenger side (this was in the installation instructions) and the trans line was always too close to the passenger header.

My current Kooks fit perfect with zero modifications to my car.

 

Indeed I know of that pinch-weld area on the passenger side. I know longer primaries make better torque, and the ARH headers have noticeably longer primaries vs the Kooks. I like the compactness of the Kooks, and was considering them, but I could not find a vendor that would: Sell a Kooks Header and x-pipe package = there is no such part number, all sold separately. I call many distributors looking for the very best deal; possible, and found prices for their catted x-pipe ran approx $1300 to $1500, and the headers are approx $1000 to $1300. If you found a full system for less than these prices, PLEASE do not tell me, ha, ha...

To be honest - My pockets aren't as deep as some, so there was no choice here, just like Stainless Works. I swear I am still conflicted about the prices these systems go for. I mean; Over these many, many years, I have built my fair share old school muscle cars, big blocks & small, Chevys, Mopars, Fords and even a couple Pontiacs! Those headers were all mild steel, they never leaked, made great power, they did rust but not badly and they ALL cost less than $600.... Even the old Hooker fender-well headers I had on my old stroked big block Cuda drag car. They were just $465 and they're probably still on the car! Paying these prices for a header system is like paying $1 million for a 1970 Hemi Cuda... BUT.. that is the price "if you want it"... and so, we pay, but not necessarily gladly. BUT that's America and we love it = free market choices, thank god, ha, ha...

For me: #1 goal of the header system is to improve power, #2 goal is best bang for the bucks, #3 goal is ease of install. "For me" ARH product met my goals. I also believe Kooks & ARH make about the same power, thus the Kooks costs a lot more for basically the same power. I think all of us are trying to achieve the same thing, and the journey there is glorious, but expensive, ha, ha.... All the best sir.

 

I learned long ago that paying a fair price is key to developing long term relationship's with supplier's, it makes problem solving easier. Unfortunately my 416 has had a multitude of big name high price suppliers that have failed to deliver on their promise. If I had not contacted Nick the second time after being blown off by Sal & the original selling dealer I would have labeled ARH as a typical bad customer support supplier.

2.0" headers are fat tubes for sure, knowing that some clearance issue's may occur & did. They were easily corrected except for the one that needed Nick's assistance, once again I'm in awe how he handled both of my issue's

It was a long painful process for me to decide on the 2.0" vs 1 7/8 tube size, I won't get into that in this thread. One comment I will make & reason for choosing ARH over Kooks, ARH retains their "Merge Collector" with 2.0" headers.

Old Country, if I'm reading your comments correctly you are going to ceramic coat your headers? Nick & I talked about that & he has very good reasons for "not" doing that. You might want to look into that before doing so.....just a suggestion.

 

Installed ARH 1 7/8 ZO6 headers/catted x-pipe/akrapovic axle back in july on my Grand sport, have to say these were the easiest header install i have had to date. Just moved the pinch welds out of the way per instructions, not a big deal at all. Since you have a 6MT prepare for an oil change as well, since you have to unbolt the dry sump lines. also consider doing something to protect the starter as well while you are there, heat shield or wrap/blanket mine was on its way out to begin with but was stupid and didnt address it then. Bonus is when you have to replace the starter you dont have to remove the header or unbolt, just enough room to move the starter and remove. Biggest pain with the entire install was getting the Passenger akra exhaust over the subframe assembly, wound up having to loosen the subframe to give some more clearance.

 

Here is the glitch with headers, and it really boils down to the motor mounts in play.
Note, have seen guys bitch that some header type protrudes way below the car, only to know that the OEM fluid filled engine mounts are cracked, the fluid gone, and the motor sitting lower than normal in the engine bay to cause the problem. On some aftermarket engine mounts, motor sits up higher in the engine bay, and headers may have to be tweaked downward to clear instead.

https://www.google.com/search?q=c6+m...h=550&dpr=1.25

So dry fit the headers to be being with (hell, check the motor mounts in the first place in cause they need to be replace before hand), and see if you need to heat tweak/bend the headers to fit the drop drop area better, due to the where the engine is sitting in the engine bay to start with.
Also, install the X pipe on the headers, to hold the end points of the headers so why will fit the X pipe once tweaked as well.

Once the headers, and maybe even X pipe is tweaked to fit the car cleanly (so they are not protruding way down below the car), then you can bead blast and ceramic coat the headers. Hence this is the problem I have with getting ceramic coated headers in the first place, since if you need to tweak the headers, going to damage the coating during the tweaking. Also, like the idea of two piece X pipes, since it allows you to adjust the X pipe between the header and the muffing pipes, to fit the X pipe better. But again, dry fit the pipe, spot tig it to hold the middle point together, then drop the pipe to do a full tig welds at the middle connection points on the X pipe.

 

Interesting replies here, thank you. It's interesting that my post contained zero questions, and yet look at the comments and productive suggestions, ha... just LOVE this forum!

So - Don't ceramic coat the headers? What the heck! I was thinking of wrapping them with Titanium wrap, but a few 'in the know fellows' talked me out of that, noting ceramic is the way to go, and now it's being suggested I shouldn't do that either, ha.. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and caution! I will try to get ahold of Nick @ ARH and have him try to convince me otherwise.

WHAT!? There's fluid in the motor mounts?? Like a rubber bladder type of thing? That would certainly absorb engine vibration well, but I'd think they'd also install a torque strap to hold'r down should a mount fail. I'm going to have to research this, learn the what & why and see what's up! I've heard nothing about this in all my C6 Vette travels and studies... how the hell did that happen! Maybe mount failure/leaks is such a rare occurrence that it's a non-issue? Regardless - I'll certainly look into it, and if need be just install new ones when I hang the headers... just to be safe. Maybe Henson solid mounts, but then again that could manifest some unwelcome engine vibration to the car? Research-Research-Research!!!

Hey - Lot's of good advice to consider here. I really appreciate it, MANY thanks.

 

Research is complete - holy crap!

I called ARH tech line and talked to 'Mike' at length about pros & cons regarding Ceramic coating. Whoa.... He was pretty informative and definitely anti-Ceramic.
Here are some tid-bits from the conversation:
a) If it's a show car, yes, Ceramic will be prettier than the plain stainless.
b) Ceramic does mitigate corrosion formation for a some time, but certainly not forever.
c) Ceramic coatings can & do tend to scrape and chip off, thus you're back to exposed stainless, so why even go there.
d) Heat reduction is minimal, and really not needed for the C6, as there is plenty of cooling ventilation thru the engine compartment.
e) Ceramic can/will seriously bruise the life time warranty.
f) Over time, Stainless will form some level of surface corrosion, BUT it takes a long time, and depends on a few factors;
1> If you're driving your Vette on the beach in the salty surf, or salted roads in winter, expect it to show corrosion within a couple years, but so will parts of your Vette!
2> If you see normal driving in rainy roads or fresh water washing, it will take a long time, but it'll form.
3> If you're a dry-weather performance kinda Vette owner (me), you shouldn't see any at all for a looooooong time, but spot corrosion will eventually form.
4> Just simple surface corrosion, and should not impact material weld, structure or strength (or the warranty).

And so bye-bye to my idea of Ceramic coating.

Engine mounts?
Yep, the stock ones are filled with an oil, like a thick rubber bladder, and yes they do deteriorate, do crack and do split over time, especially in hot arid climates &/or if the engine has been modded, which adds stress to the mount system. And so: I will be upgrading my mounts when I install the headers, or simply installing new OEM mounts... to be determined after more research. The Henson's seem to be the go-to mounts, but they'll surely add a level of engine-factor to the car vs the stock fluid filled bladder mounts. I'm not planning to race the car, sooo we'll see. I can use the $$$ that I was going to spend on the Ceramic coating, ha, ha...

And there ya go.
I think this thread has probably run its course, unless anyone else feels the need to chime-in. The post was just an fyi, mainly to get the pictures out there. All the best ~

 

You will find the stainless header will "not" radiate & transfer the heat like steel headers do, less need for the coating. I run the ceramic boot plug wires & heat socks just for a little added protection.

I'm happy that you started the thread, I really wanted to tell my story & how in this day & age there are still some pro's that take it to another level.

Best of luck with your project! Next spring I plan to get back on the dyno & maybe post some of my findings.

 

Hi ya CTD! Thanks for the interesting comments and info you shared. I have read that before, that SS doesn't radiate heat like the steel header from days of old. Coming from you 'it's just gotta be true', ha, ha... I will certainly be putting a heat blanket of shield on my Starter, and the Dry Sump Oil Lines, absolutely!

Anyway - I'm brighter now about this topic 'because of you' and all the other fine fellows on this forum that I've been getting tutored by in this cyber-space classroom of the Vette...

 

I know you said not to tell you but a quick search I found more than a couple vendors selling 2” Kooks with 3” catted x-pipes, gaskets and o2 extensions for right about $2k, pretty much the same price as ARH.

 

ARH 1 7/8"


I wound up plugging the REAR O2 Sensor Bungs



3" X Pipe necking DOWN to Fit 2 1/2" over the axle Grand Sport Tailpipe's

Blue Tape MArking where I trimmed/cut the frame to clear outer most right side tube.....

 

Don't forget that your throwing extra heat at the starter with headers, so want to get a heat shield on it, before you start to crack the Bakelite bolt terminals off the solenoid.

 

I think I got the first, or, one of the first sets of ARH headers for the ls2...14 years ago! Had them on and off a few times for engine mods, new heads, etc. I did have to bend the right side pinch weld up a bit to clear.... a big set of channel locks and a few minutes took care of that.

Terrific headers. Not one leak or problem in 14 years and counting. I never had the starter problem some header systems seem to cause...knocks wood...

 

Nice response, very good stuff.

I got my ARH setup on a black-Friday sale for $1799, which included shipping. True these usually are between $1900-$2400..., the Kooks were always in the upper end of that.

Very nice header pictures there CamarosRus. My only concern is the radiant heat at the right front primary, it's mega close to the AC line. Mine will be too, so I'm going to make a bracket and pull that line away from it by about an inch. I don't know if you'll recall, but my wife and I met you in summer 2019 at Woodburn drags strip. I didn't even have my Vette yet, and we saw your Vette in the pits - wow! We were pretty taken by your amazing Inferno Orange beauty! I think your wheel/tire combo is still one of the best I've seen on a C6. You told me all about your ARH install & tune at Tommy Wongs. Fast forward to Jan/2021 and here we are, ha.. I visited Tommy about a month ago, and we had a good 2 hr long chat. He's about to retire so I better get my mods going. I purchased his slightly spicier version of the SpinMonster cam, since he's installed over a dozen, has several good tuning maps and knows where to tweak it. Anyway - nice pictures.

Okay, Happy New Year everybody!

 

And YES - I'll be installing multiple heat shields/blankets in various places, but especially the Starter, absolutely!