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Anyone ran a 225/233 114 Lsa with an auto trans? My last Cam was 221/229 115lsa & idled like stock! The 225 cam has a zero overlap & I have a 2200 stahl right now & can Idle up to 1,00rpm without pushing through the converter & even tho I know the car would be a lot quicker with a higher stall I don't want to go any higher in stall as I know that traction would be hit or miss with the tire I prefer to run!
Anyone ran a 225/233 114 Lsa with an auto trans? My last Cam was 221/229 115lsa & idled like stock! The 225 cam has a zero overlap & I have a 2200 stahl right now & can Idle up to 1,00rpm without pushing through the converter & even tho I know the car would be a lot quicker with a higher stall I don't want to go any higher in stall as I know that traction would be hit or miss with the tire I prefer to run!
I think you will be fine. I used to have an LS2 auto trans GTO that I cammed. The cam was a CamMotion 222/228 duration with 114 LSA and I was on the stock converter. Never had any pushing at all and car drove normally.
I think you will be happier with a real converter. I was heads/cam and stock converter it ran ok then swapped a yank pas3600 and woke up the beast, lol
I hook pretty good with pirelli trofeo r tires 305/30/20
btw, cam is cammotion grind 219/230 115lsa+5 and around .630 lift using yella terra 1.85 rockers
milled heads around 11.8 compression
I'm running a 226/234 115+4 cam which is a true 0 overlap cam. Your cam is actually is a +1 degree overlap cam. I know that's nit picking. The dyno on my cam shows more power at idle speed on up vs the stock cam. It really outruns the stock cam by a large margin from 2500 on up. Manners are stock like with excellent fuel eco.
Said all that to say this. Your cam, with a decent tune, should play nice on the streets and wouldn't absolutely NEED a higher stall converter....although a higher stall converter would get you from pt A to pt B quicker.