Looking at A circle D converter for my 2010 G/S 700 wrhp . stage 3 blower cam

The car drives great now with stock converter but hate when you put it n gear it pulls the engine down so much you cant hear the cam at all so I have a few questions?

1 Who has a cammed ls3 Auto w/ a 3000 stall and can you hear the chop from the cam when in drive ? Idle clips would be great in and out of drive,
2 When i talked with Circle d today they said with a 3000 stall it still would pull the engine down some in drive and eliminate some of the chop ,
3 Do you experience any heating with the aftermarket converter and what did you do to prevent this, also what temp did you experience after the stall

Just looking for info before i pull the trigger on a stall .

 

nevermind. Vid wouldnt attach

 

I don't have any experience yet with a C6, but had a cammed Fbody with a stall....You definitely want to make sure you have a quality trans cooler. I had no overheating issues in the 4l60e.

 

Nobody with a cammed A6 C6? WOW!

 

I had the stock stall when I did heads/cam for awhile like you said it was holding back the engine
then swapped it out for a yank pas3400-3600 big improvement in performance/drivability
nice tight converter that hits hard when you step on it

 

OP ...

You now have two of the exact same threads going on at the same time (I responded to the other thread).

Why don't you have a moderator combine these two threads into one.

 

you have any data on that converter after install?

 

I am going thru this debate right now too. I wish I could drive a 3200 stall car. Leaning towards a 3200 for my ls3 A6 base.

 

I was very weary of going with the 3200 stall. I didn’t want it to suck around town. I ended up with a Yank ss3200 and it is perfect. 30 min of driving and you’ll forget that it’s even a different stall...it’s that nice. If you’re cammed you may get a little surging when it locks out around 50mph. It goes away around 57 if I recall.
I run a b&m cooler and bypass the stock cooler in the radiator. I heard some say it’s not needed for a 2800/3200, but the builder recommended it.

 

you probably want t go with a Yank SC3200 stall and go with the tru-cool 40kgvw tranny cooler it is hands down the best tranny cooler especially with the supercharger

 

I have never looked into the Tru-Cool coolers. I have heard good things, but what is actually better about them compared to others? Thanks!

 

just the simple fact that they have a higher GVW rating which translates into cooler temps and they have a better quality build supposedly i no tranny cooler expert but if some of the fastest Vettes in the country use them then thats enough for me

 

Not One idle clip?

 

Going in with AR headers. NPP cracked open 1/4" at all times
works normally after 3500rpm. Custom blower friendly cam and Yank SS3200 stall.

 

Sounds good but thats what im worried about when you put it Gear the chop is almost non existent . What size cam do you have ?

 

Pretty mild. Its like a 230/242 115+3 or something. 5 or 6 deg overlap

 

Here's a couple videos of mine, not in gear but just neutral.



There are some other videos on my channel, too.

Cam is custom-spec CamMotion 23x-62x/24x-61x, 114 LSA with a nice lope to it that makes great power. The converter is a custom ProTorque 3200 stall that is closer to a 3600, with a 3-disc carbon clutch that will hold and lock at WOT, low throttle, and anything in between.

On the E38/LS3, cam lope sound is legitimately more related to the tune than anything (provided you have a lumpy cam in the first place). I can tune this car to have barely any perceptible lope at all by adjusting the spark overshoot/undershoot and idle PID settings. I have my in-gear settings such that there is minimal lope for minimal bucking, as that gets uncomfortable. I can also tune it to sound positively violent, which makes it literally zero fun to drive but also "feels" like a racecar. My P/N settings are closer to this than the "smooth" mode that I have for driving, just so that I can get the sound that I want. When I first had the car cammed and dialed everything in, I had to intentionally add in some lope to the tune because you could barely tell it wasn't just a car with a loud exhaust.

There's definitely some obvious effect that loading the car with the converter/brakes/trans has, like increasing the required airflow to keep the engine turning against that load, but you can still keep the lope with the right combination of spark and airflow settings.

Getting the idle tune right on these cars is a comical experience if you've never done it before, and can be really hard on your starter since your car will be dying every 2 seconds until you finally get it right.