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First step is to remove a wheel and look at the lowering bolts with a trouble light. Determine if they are OEM or aftermarket. If OEM, is the rubber portion worn off//squashed? How much of the threaded lowering bolt is protruding above the monoleaf spring? I recently went through this to find that I have OEM lowering bolts, but they are badly worn/squashed. There was still about one inch of thread above the monoleaf spring, so I turned them down as far as practical for now. I'll drive it some and measure ride height again and compare that to my measurements before making the adjustment. One bit of advice is that the hex at the top of the lowering bolt is 10mm, so get a 6-sided short-length socket (I bought an impact socket). If you use a 12-pointed socket, you will probably round the head before the bolt moves, because they are somewhat difficult to get moving the first time.
My buddy has an 08, as is mine, his front dam is almost 4” off the pavement. He also has a lot more room in wheel wells.
Originally Posted by 4SUMERZ
According to all the literature out there, your numbers seem to be in line for sure. The service manual mesures the Z trim height measurement in the front and D height measurement for the rear.
My manual for a 2006 does not include the measurements from ground to bottom of fender as most of us have done, although I did see a chart with the P and R measurement, although not from my manual, but from a 2009 manual. (attached) The Z51 suspension is FE3, 27.3 & 28.2 so your in the ball park for sure .
My manual also stated that the nominal spring adjustment bolt protrusion from top of spring to top of adjusting nut should be 24mm (a) in the diagram. It is not to exceed nominal by more than + or - 5mm (.20 in)
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
