Apologies if this is a dupe, but my search turned up nada.
I can find plenty of info on installing a catch can on a wet sump LS3 but nothing on dry sump cars. I think there are some differences, but I am not exactly sure. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

I've a 2010 GS M6 with the Dry Sump - awesome car. I installed a Catch Can soon after purchasing the car. The car only had 13,000 miles on it, BUT I'd read so much about the oil blowing thru the PCV system and coating the inside of the intake with oil, well I just had to take a look for myself. So within days of getting the car I pulled the TB, shined a light in there, HOLY CRAP every surface was wet and shiny AND I had a small puddle in the middle. That was THAT! I got a lint-free rag in there and sopped it all up, and got myself a nice Catch Can (Elite Engineering).

I simply installed it the same way as a wet sump, as the Tech I spoke with said dry sump or wet, makes no difference. Like you, I could not find any definitive warning or caution that Catch Cans on the Dry Sump must be mounted &/or hoses routed differently. See the pics after the install. I have seen plenty of pics of them mounted back by the Sump, but most of those were on race cars, and had every breather vent hose stuck in there. Mega overkill for the average non-supercharged Vette. I do not know, but I don't believe the ZR1 has a different PCV system than our NA LS3... but I could be wrong.

To date I have put about 2,000 miles on the Vette, and emptied it twice.... well empty isn't the correct word. After 1,000 miles I found I had perhaps a Tablespoon of oil, same at 2,000 as well. At 2,000 I took the TB off and shined the light in there; the inside had no shine, but I did get just a slight film on my finger smearing around in there (a lot).

Hope this helped. Now go enjoy your awesome Vette brother!

 

Correct. I thought I'd go the extra mile and bought the ZR1 setup (dual can) from Elite Engineering for my '10 GS 6M (dry-sump), and the can that runs into the intake always collects oil (same can as the wet-sump / single can install), and one stays dry.
Elite Engineering is my preference, but I also hear great things about Mighty Mouse.
Hope this helps.

 

Thanks guys, I have an Elite CC so your write ups and pics are very helpful.

 

It takes a team sometimes, brother-man, which is what this forum is all about. God only knows how much wisdom I've been gifted or stolen from this forum, which help set me on the right path to C6 LS3 power, as well as saved me gobs of time & money$.

In 1675, Isaac Newton made his most famous statement: “If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of Giants”. There are many such giants in this forum, helping all of us see farther, which for me brings thoughts to mind of folks like Old Motorhead and SpinMonster, but there are many others.

 

On dry sump, Elite can on the dirty side, and oil separator cap on the oil tank, is about the best option.

 

So basically just a breather to replace the cap on the tank ?

 

Separator cap, hence front vent line on the tank (farthest away from the cap) to the port in front of the TB gets cap plugged at the tank, and now your coming out of the separator cap vent port to that line at the tank instead.




If you go to super charge, then one way valve installed on the dirty side at the intake port line so air can only flow into the Intake manifold port (so boost is not pushed out that port into the catch tank),Then on the oil tank port that you capped off, pull that cap and install an another line with a fuel tank vent breaker with check vavle, on the back side of the tank so you have slop back to the tank port.

The motor under boost is going to have major blow by past the pistons, and since the dirty side is out of play under boost, only have the clean side off the valve covers to the tank in play/want to allow the extra pressure out of the tank a secondary place to go, instead of just the single cap separator vent/ or blowing the line off it instead.

The fuel tank vent breather with check valve does not need to be fancy, and even something like the below would be fine.
Simply check valve in it keeps the line from back drawing any air into the tank,and the filter in it is enough to catch any oils so they are not blow up and out of it.

So out of OEM tank vent with hose, loop behind the tank and mount the gas filter with check valve with it outlet side upwards behind the back of the tank (out of site, out of mind, and a slight slop from the tank breather with check vavle downwards back to the tank).

Hence if the tank does need a secondary line to vent under boost, it will be pushed up and out of the breather (check valve has enough back pressure that the separator cap will be doing most of the venting, and just there if if the boost blow by get strong enough that it needs a secondary line to vent, and what oil that is trapped by the filter, will back flow back down to the vent in the tank when not venting isntead.


If you want to go fancy (instead of the $3 for the plastic one), then here you go for $16 instead.


Or you could do something like this on the tank vent port, but since it does not have a check valve in it, and nothing to flow any oil it catches back to the tank, can be messy isntead.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Vibrant-Perfo.../2165/10002/-1

 

Thanks Dano for that great writeup. I am NA right now but hopefully when the kids are out of college I will have some money left over for a blower. Now I have to buy a vented cap for the tank.................

 

Your problem is Bound to be covered here


http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/i...tructions.html

 

 

Mighty Mouse has a dedicated mount that mounts to your oil tank. Easiest set up IMO.

https://www.mightymousesolutions.com/catch-cans

 

Maybe I missing something, but both MM kits for the C6 dry sump (mild and wild) state "Not for road course use" both.

Hence whole reason for the dry sump system in the first place, is for road cause use so you don't oil starve the motor in a prolong high G turns.