My summer DD a 2007 LS2 with 6L80e trans is getting flex fuel and a small cam to go with its Kooks exhaust and Eforce that will go from a 3.85 to 3.5" pulley for I guess 10psi. All supporting mods are included.
Pic is cam quote only.
Is the CompCams trunion upgradeTexas Speed push rods, valve springs & Ti retainers the right stuff?
It lists TSP .660 Polished dual spring kit with PAC valve springs. What is that? TSP or PAC springs? Whats the difference?
Are 'PRC Integrated seat/seals' different than or better than stock seals? I dont know what seat/seals are?




Thanks
Angelo
In IL.

 

If you are using dual valve springs, the stock valve guide seals will not fit (the inner spring is too narrow for the valve guide seal)

The PRC Integrated Seat and Seal fits when you are using dual valve springs

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-9513-p...set-of-16.aspx

 

Personally, I would recommend a centri blower over a PD blower like you have selected, unless that is already installed on the car.

As far as the valvetrain stuff it all looks good to me with exception of the post above me

 

Look on Texas Speed website. Some of those prices are a little high. Also expect more. When they take your cam out will be a story to every lobe. Lifters may need to be replaced. LS7 performance lifters, Comp cams 17302 Trunion upgrade kit or similar will work. Only use OEM Lifter trays if you need to go this route. Head gaskets, and other items an excellent idea.

 

Something wrong with what I posted ?

Please explain ...

 

See if you can find the CHE bushings for the rockers instead of the Comp Cams stuff

 

Nothing wrong with the use of Comp Cams Trunion upgrade. CHE maybe if you are going to see 8,000 and a lot more money. Your decision.

 

. Care to explain ?

 

In this post Im making no inquiries relative to types of blowers. But you can tells us all what you have anyway.

 

Good info. I'll ask them to check the cam and replace the lifters if needed.
Heads arnt coming off.
Car has 32000 miles. Shall we change timing gears?
Does the LS2 need a 3 bolt cam conversion?
How about adding a Melling oil pump?

Thanks

 

Heads need to be removed if you replace the lifters.

And, if you replace the lifters, make sure you replace the plastic lifter trays


EDIT: I now see that '2008 Corvette' already mentioned the lifter trays

.

 

I believe all new cams require a 3 bolt kit. Mine did, Texas Speed stage 1. A brand new OEM pump from Chevrolet will be just fine. No need for high volume or high pressure.

 

32K miles, you do not need new cam gears, timing chain, or oil pump as long a all of those are in good condition (and they likely are). Up to you if you want to spend money on new parts. LS2 engine uses a 3-bolt cam so you already have what you need. Not a bad idea to replace the cam retainer plate (they are cheap).

I did a cam swamp in a 2006 GTO with the LS2 and about 35K miles and chain, gears, and oil pump were all just fine. Didn't change the lifters either as the stock cam coming out was perfect.

If the cam lobes look good, the lifters should be fine as well. Not a bad idea to replace lifters with cam swap but its not necessary. Again, it comes down to your budget and what you want.

As for the springs, based on the lift of the cam, you do not need dual valve springs with titanium retainers. It won't hurt anything but it is a bit overkill. All you need is an upgraded beehive spring like a PAC 1218 or 1219. New valve seals with your stock retainers will run great. Valvetrain will be perfectly stable.

And again, you really don't need any trunnion upgrade either. But up to you if you want to spend the money.

ID1050X injectors are definitely needed since you are adding Flex fuel. On top of that, I would add a Boost A Pump or BAP. Running more boost and Flex fuel will require more fuel flow. The BAP will boost the voltage to stock pump at a set boost level (typically 3 psi). At the least, it is a good idea to add a Racetronix fuel wire kit to get the max voltage out of the fuel system.

As for boost on the E-force, with a 3.5" pulley, you will likely be at about 7 or 8 psi.

I didn't see it in your original post but you will need a custom tune to get everything dialed in.

 

OP ...

All great suggestions that 'Spaceme' posted above !

 

OP ...

And you certainly don't need those dual valve springs with the cam lift you initially posted.

As Spaceme mentioned, the PAC single 'beehive' 1218 springs will be just fine, and can safely accept up to a .600" cam lift.

Your whole valvetrain will last a lot longer with these PAC 1218 springs vs those stiff .660" max lift dual springs on your list of parts.

 

Good info.
Its slated to get an A&A twin pump and dyno tune.
Thanks for valve spring part #.

. OP
Angelo

 

I agree you don’t want too much spring for the cam you have. I went with dual .660 springs on a small cam once and not only was it hard on the valvetrain but they were noisy as hell.