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Leaking tick master cylinder

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Old Mar 3, 2021 | 06:47 AM
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Default Leaking tick master cylinder

I've had an adjustable tick master since my origional build in 2013. Always been using a RPS quad who still looks good.

Last drive I got caught in a traffic jam, by the end clutch felt weird like ot wasn't disengaging. Fluid was black and has been flushed using a remote bleeder.

Was looking it over and turns out there's a small leak from where the shaft enters the master inside the car.

Is this a common problem?

Anyone else with similar or have solutions for longevity?

Thanks
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Old Mar 3, 2021 | 02:32 PM
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The master cylinder is just a Tilton that Tick adds the extra parts onto so it will work in the C6.


Rebuild kit for it is like $10 from Tilton, or you can just see if tick will replace it instead.
But yes, would resolve the problem if the master is leaking.
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Old Mar 3, 2021 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
The master cylinder is just a Tilton that Tick adds the extra parts onto so it will work in the C6.


Rebuild kit for it is like $10 from Tilton, or you can just see if tick will replace it instead.
But yes, would resolve the problem if the master is leaking.
Thanks for the info!

I called them and they're send one, I cam return the core for a full refund. Very impressed with tick
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Old Jul 17, 2021 | 12:03 AM
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Default Me too

Wow... This literally just happened to me. Doing maintenance while car's on jack stands. About to start putting my bumper cover back on, checked fluids and clutch reservoir was almost totally empty. Saw shaft going into firewall is wet. Guess I should call tick as well and see what they say? I've had this master cylinder for a few years.
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Old Jul 23, 2021 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by c6moneypit
Wow... This literally just happened to me. Doing maintenance while car's on jack stands. About to start putting my bumper cover back on, checked fluids and clutch reservoir was almost totally empty. Saw shaft going into firewall is wet. Guess I should call tick as well and see what they say? I've had this master cylinder for a few years.
I talked to Chris there, great customer service. Mine required some tweaking due tot he RPS quad clutch but still an easy fix, not my video but great tutorial.


Last edited by SinisterC6; Jul 23, 2021 at 09:35 PM.
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Old Jul 23, 2021 | 10:21 PM
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Just got my replacement master cylinder from Tick. There's almost no room to work in that area, not looking forward to wiggling this thing out and disconnecting the slave connection. I'll probably be doing a lot of swearing.
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Old Jul 24, 2021 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by c6moneypit
Just got my replacement master cylinder from Tick. There's almost no room to work in that area, not looking forward to wiggling this thing out and disconnecting the slave connection. I'll probably be doing a lot of swearing.
Mine was hard to unscrew but it eventually released, gotta have the wheel off and the fender liner out.

Do you already have a tick in there?

Do you have remote bleeder?

You will introduce a lot of air, took almost a hour of 2 person bleeding to fix
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Old Jul 24, 2021 | 09:30 PM
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that was a bioootch... But got it out. So they want me to release that clip to disconnect the end of the line where it snaps onto the slave connection. That way air only really gets in the new master and you can just bleed the master separate from the slave, then reconnect. But that last pic is as far as I can get the line towards the wheel well. My fear is that I will get that clip off but never be able to see or get the angle to get the connector and clip back on.

If I just disconnect where the blue connector is, swap the blue fitting onto the new master, then reconnect there, I'll have to bleed air through the entire system. I do have the tick remote bleeder with the check valve. Will that help bleed the air out faster I wonder? Or will it still take forever... I may not have a choice honestly...

What do you think?

Last edited by c6moneypit; Jul 24, 2021 at 09:32 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2021 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by c6moneypit



that was a bioootch... But got it out. So they want me to release that clip to disconnect the end of the line where it snaps onto the slave connection. That way air only really gets in the new master and you can just bleed the master separate from the slave, then reconnect. But that last pic is as far as I can get the line towards the wheel well. My fear is that I will get that clip off but never be able to see or get the angle to get the connector and clip back on.

If I just disconnect where the blue connector is, swap the blue fitting onto the new master, then reconnect there, I'll have to bleed air through the entire system. I do have the tick remote bleeder with the check valve. Will that help bleed the air out faster I wonder? Or will it still take forever... I may not have a choice honestly...

What do you think?
Nice work

I did the blue fitting and 2 person bled for about 45 min
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Old Jul 24, 2021 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SinisterC6
Nice work

I did the blue fitting and 2 person bled for about 45 min
Thank God! I did not want to deal with that clip. I'll do what you did.

Last edited by c6moneypit; Jul 24, 2021 at 10:30 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2021 | 07:37 PM
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This tick master has such a long line going to the slave... I was able to feed it back to the center of the engine bay. The car's high enough on jack stands right now that I was able to get under the car and have plenty of room to disconnect it easily. This will make bleeding the system much easier.
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Old Aug 21, 2022 | 04:08 PM
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I have a c5 but noticed my tick master cylinder is leaking, bummer will reach out to tick. Have had it I believe for 6 years.


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