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Hey all I purchased a set of Morimoto headlights and I'm debating whether to install myself or have installed. I've watched some Youtube videos and the install looks fairly involved for someone without a lift just in their garage like myself. I had it quoted at a local shop that does Corvettes for almost $600, which was about 8 hours labor and seemed high to me for a shop that has the proper equipment.
Any advice from those that either had done their own install or had it done? I'm also concerned about the gaps doing it myself as I've seen some other posted on here with some folks having issues getting the panels to line back up properly when put back together. If anyone is in North NJ that can recommend a shop I'd appreciate it.
Hey all I purchased a set of Morimoto headlights and I'm debating whether to install myself or have installed. I've watched some Youtube videos and the install looks fairly involved for someone without a lift just in their garage like myself. I had it quoted at a local shop that does Corvettes for almost $600, which was about 8 hours labor and seemed high to me for a shop that has the proper equipment.
Any advice from those that either had done their own install or had it done? I'm also concerned about the gaps doing it myself as I've seen some other posted on here with some folks having issues getting the panels to line back up properly when put back together. If anyone is in North NJ that can recommend a shop I'd appreciate it.
I have reinstalled my headlights after I replaced the lenses. I assume new Morimoto's would about be the same effort. It can easily be done without a lift if the front wheels are off the ground. People say it can be done without removing the fender. However, I did remove the fender because I didn't like OE panel fit at the bottom of the wheel well. You can replace the headlights in about 5 minutes with the fender panel off. Takes (me - DIY) about 45 minutes to get the panel off and 45 minutes to get the panel back on. How fussy you are about fit will determine the rest of the time. (maybe 2 hours of fiddling with the screw tightening order.) Some folks remove the front bumper instead and that might be a better method.
For $600 I'd do it myself, without question. You can always have the panel adjusted by a pro for less than that. If you do it yourself and you don't have much DIY experience be careful of the plastic clips you don't want to break anything. Just realize if you need to force something you are probably doing it wrong. Ask here on the forum for advice if you get stuck, I have, and you get all the help you need.
I did mine myself. Left fenders on. I took my front bumper off (most time consuming part of the whole process). Once the bumper is off, just loosen the fenders and remove the 3 bolts that hold in the headlight, and out they come. The wiring for them is quite simple and their instructions are great. As far as aligning them, it was not hard. Set the light in it's home and leave the 3 nuts loose-ish. Run your wiring and test functionality. Once it works like you want it, start putting everything back together. Once the bumper is on, move the light to where you want it by reaching through the wheel well area. Tighten them down, and you're done. Then adjust them in your driveway that night. Mine did require healthy adjustments to point correctly. But all in all, it was NOT a difficult process by any means. If you can change your oil, you can swap your lights.
This can easily be done without bumper and fender removal. Taking my time I did this job in about two hours, this included using fender washers as shims to adjust headlights into position so no gaps were present.
I helped a forum member install his that needed no shims and that job went much quicker.
So I guess it just depends on wether you need shims or not. I used a cutting wheel to put a slot in fender washers so I could easily slide them under headlight studs to adjust into position.
If you have any other questions just ask, there are plenty on the forum who have done this themselves. 600 bucks sound twice the going rate I've seen others get it done for.
Will admit it took 4 hands to do this in my account. Found that removing the rubber cover for bulb replacement. Gave better purchase to place and hold the light till tightened up.
Did raise hood and marked fender location with painters tape. easy to put back to proper location.
Done on Jack stands with no body panels removed. Understand to remove the clip (fender to bumper)
Its the bumper you are unclipping from the fender (( there is one fender screw under this area ))
How were you able to reach all the washer nuts for the headlight assembly? I actually gave this a shot last week and got the fender and bumper loosened but couldn't get to two of the three bolts for the headlight, so I didn't even bother trying the other side.
You need to remove the front wheel well liner and go in from the wheel well. I think there were one or two bolts you install and shim by brail....lol.
If I recall it was pretty easy if all the plastic is removed from wheel well.
The first head light will probably take you an hour & once you’ve got that in, the 2nd is a breeze. I’ve done it a few times now & can swap the lights in about 40 min total. Definitely wouldn’t pay $600 to have them installed.
Tip: don’t tighten the 3 nuts down until you’ve got the headlight perfectly aligned. Then tighten one a little, move the next, and so forth until they’re all snug & the light is correctly aligned. If you’ve got large hands a 10mm ratchet wrench is the tool to tighten them down
oe gaskets only fit if you replace the morimoto smoked lenses with attached gaskets. We recommend that if you do that use our Zen6 lenses.
I thought the headlights only came with clear lenses, that’s what I have. One of my OE gaskets was torn and it looks like installer used anyway and tucked the torn part down. I haven’t been able to see print or video that shows the OE (or any) gasket being used.
I thought the headlights only came with clear lenses, that’s what I have. One of my OE gaskets was torn and it looks like installer used anyway and tucked the torn part down. I haven’t been able to see print or video that shows the OE (or any) gasket being used.
Morimoto headlights have a pre-configured gasket on slightly smoked lenses. They are not perfectly clear, they have a smoke tint to them.
Describe fender washers aftermarket gasket none fit - gap,cure?
Originally Posted by SixAddict
This can easily be done without bumper and fender removal. Taking my time I did this job in about two hours, this included using fender washers as shims to adjust headlights into position so no gaps were present.
I helped a forum member install his that needed no shims and that job went much quicker.
So I guess it just depends on wether you need shims or not. I used a cutting wheel to put a slot in fender washers so I could easily slide them under headlight studs to adjust into position.
If you have any other questions just ask, there are plenty on the forum who have done this themselves. 600 bucks sound twice the going rate I've seen others get it done for.
I have the C6 = C8 Carbides I just installed. Spent like over 2 hours trying to fit fender, bumper headlight to get gaps good. Many fit adjustments just left big air gap gasket to body. After trying to screw out mounting studs with 5mm socket - only to find it, barely in and easily wobbling, that was a no go there. After all the reviews I didn't expect this and didn't read up on it until now, here and you mentioning fender washers. Yesterday I boosted up the rear most @1/4" and got that topped edge near good, but wow the gapping w/o was terrible darn near entire circumference. So last night I ordered fender shims and here I am. Just wondering did you (SixAddict and others) find this often and was the lift in all 3 mounting studs like 1/4" and near equal on all 3 or did you end up staggering the shim amounts?
I can’t recall if I had to install fender washers on all three studs or just a few of them. Each car is different as in when I did a friends install in his vette, they bolted right in with no shims needed.? Here is a photo of my home made shims. Worked great to fill in the voids around headlights.
Thanks Sixaddict, I’ll guess as I tipped 1 point to excess I will remove it and start over with shim adjust all 3 1st to more near leveling - tbd but hoping just inner fender removal - access to make these adjustments. I do wish gaskets were lightly glued from the manufacturer to hold position whilst fitting as they also seem to easily move around (slide under desired position).
A follow up I have finalized my installation & tweaks. Easy to readjust with just wheel off and fender liner out. It seems the black gasket around lens isn't meant to be sealing (or won't be) around the entire circumference of the oval-ish opening. It's a 3 point stud - shimming leveling adjustment, for my figment, and to make the inner side gasket of oval and all around the rear loop mostly down the outer gasket wall band in tiny Contact centering the gaps all around too. While then leaving the slight gap opening (water drain?) in the front lip band, all the while maintaining flush ness of lens to fender z& bumper contours. When you get in there the tripod is like 1 rear stud and 2 front studs you can play with. Even when over shimming the 2 fronts to where the lens front is bulging above front bumper surface - they still didn't have the gasket seal all the way around. I believe ended up with 1/8" in rear on both and 3 of the 4 fronts with a 1/16" shim.
Morimoto headlight install questions
This can easily be done without bumper and fender removal. Taking my time I did this job in about two hours, this included using fender washers as shims to adjust headlights into position so no gaps were present.
