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Key slot above the rear liscence plate to open the rear hatch, reach in on the left hand side to pull driver door release lever to open the drivers door.
If you don't see the drivers release tab, feel the carpet for the slots, then reach in and pull both the gas door tab and the door release tab out of the slots.
As for fob problem, may have glitched the RCDLR with the tender, so once in the car, open the hood, disconnect the battery for a few mins to let the modules in the car bleed down to Zero state, then reconnect the battery to re-energized the modules to re-boot them fresh.
Key slot above the rear liscence plate to open the rear hatch, reach in on the left hand side to pull driver door release lever to open the drivers door.
I think his mechanical key lock is disconnected.
Originally Posted by drewz06
soooo.. my z project got pushed back for the zr1....
been keeping it on tender, voltage is great....
fired it up to move it, opened started fine. ..
moved it again, opened started fine....
went to open it today, won't recognize either fob....
I cut the key line because I have another lock and key assembly on the way.....
so.... best way to get it opened now?
Probably the easiest-to-access battery positive is the red wire that goes to the radiator fan control module. Jumper your tender to that to get enough juice to open the door.
Probably the easiest-to-access battery positive is the red wire that goes to the radiator fan control module. Jumper your tender to that to get enough juice to open the door.
I know the battery is fine, I've been monitoring the voltage since it had to sit locked and sealed up outside in the elements...
the red lock light on the inside of the door flashes when I try to open the door....
tried both doors, red flashes...
tried both fobs and new cr 2032 in both.....
edit... yes, I had cut the cable for the mechanical lock when I pulled the bumper cover... dumb move, I had actually looked right at the cut cable three days ago and thought... "man I should rig that up so I don't get locked out.... I'll do it when it's back in the garage...."
..
I know the battery is fine, I've been monitoring the voltage since it had to sit locked and sealed up outside in the elements...
the red lock light on the inside of the door flashes when I try to open the door....
Blinking lights notwithstanding, I'm skeptical that you don't have a power problem. Even though it was on a tender recently. These things have split personalities when power gets marginal.
Blinking lights notwithstanding, I'm skeptical that you don't have a power problem. Even though it was on a tender recently. These things have split personalities when power gets marginal.
right on, will give it a try.... looks like I need another battery tender, I tossed it in the trunk of the z
Probably the easiest-to-access battery positive is the red wire that goes to the radiator fan control module. Jumper your tender to that to get enough juice to open the door.
While I agree with easy access, the style of pins in that connector is not very conducive to hooking up a jumper. If the car is high enough to access the fan control, it's probably high enough to connect directly to the starter solenoid/battery cable.
Personal opinion here: Pull the battery out of another vehicle to be the power source vs the limited power of a tender.
I think it was because I was adjusted the tune before I parked it and locked it.....
I just ordered some air wedges to try to get room in the hatch enough to snag the door pull latch....
I think the wedges would be easier to use between the door windows and the targa top, a long rod with a "L" bend on the end should be able to catch the emergency door release down by the floor.