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new to forum. picked up a 2013 GS 4LT convert and within 3 hrs in the FL sun, leather dash bubbled thinking about pulling the dash. searched, viewed and watched a few YouTubes and they all recommend having (and reading) the shop manual. I can't seem to find any place to get one? any sources or thoughts?
I followed this link to remove and re-install my dash. Very easy and removal took just under 2 hours taking my time, sorting and labeling the screws/bolts/nuts I removed, etc. Re-install took just over an hour
I have the same issue with my 2013.. Did you all glue it back down and use staples or did you buy a new dash from GM?
If the leather is in good condition just glue it back down. The front edge of the leather is too short and does not wrap around the edge. There’s not even enough room to staple the edge and not have them seen. There is a rubber trim piece on that edge but it doesn’t extend very far over the leather.
I’d pull it back to the point where it’s still attached, clean off any remaining adhesive residue on the dash & underside of the leather. Apply new adhesive to both the dash and underside of leather, I’ve used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to cover the other interior plastic parts with leather & Alcantara. Then slowly stretch and press the leather down starting at the interior side (right side in this photo) and working toward the windshield side. Once secure, clamp it down about every 3-4 inches along the windshield edge. I also set my dash on a box so that the top was parallel to the floor and then set heavy text books along the top overnight to really press the leather down.
Used the box to support the dash then placed books across it as they provided even pressure without leaving any indention marks on the leather.
Yesterday was the day! 😃Dash is out and going to upholstery shop. Shop manuals and the links were super helpful/ required. Hopefully, it goes back w no leftovers.😬
to be continued…..
Yesterday was the day! 😃Dash is out and going to upholstery shop. Shop manuals and the links were super helpful/ required. Hopefully, it goes back w no leftovers.😬
to be continued…..
FOLLOWINGGGG I have the same issue with my 60th what is the shop charging to fix?
Nice organization of the nuts and bolts. I put mine in individual labeled sandwich bags
While you’ve got it out, I’d recommend preemptively fixing your HUD. Just remove the air duct on top of the dash, remove the HUD, open it up and add washers to all the screws on the mirror pivot points. Will take you 10 min.
-upholstery shop charged $200. Overall they did a faily good job. However, there is still one area that is still bubbled. They said they couldn’t do any better. So now I’m between a rock and hard place.on how to fix it 100% or live with it😩
-Appreciate the “Heads up” on the HUD😎
I’m not sure why I should “fix” it though? It worked fine. Can you clarify? Thanks
-upholstery shop charged $200. Overall they did a faily good job. However, there is still one area that is still bubbled. They said they couldn’t do any better. So now I’m between a rock and hard place.on how to fix it 100% or live with it😩
-Appreciate the “Heads up” on the HUD😎
I’m not sure why I should “fix” it though? It worked fine. Can you clarify? Thanks
They didn't do the job correctly and now don't want to make it right. They didn't get good contact cement placement where the bubble is. I would have it perfect before I put it back in the car. It will likely be a lot of trouble to correct now, and the shop knows that.
-upholstery shop charged $200. Overall they did a faily good job. However, there is still one area that is still bubbled. They said they couldn’t do any better. So now I’m between a rock and hard place.on how to fix it 100% or live with it😩
-Appreciate the “Heads up” on the HUD😎
I’m not sure why I should “fix” it though? It worked fine. Can you clarify? Thanks
I wouldn’t have accepted that. They just didn’t pull the leather back far enough before re-gluing. You can either pull the leather back from the edge & re-glue yourself (this is what I’d do) or attempt to inject some glue through a small hole/slit in the bubble and then smooth it out, but you’ll probably be left with a wrinkle in that area at the very least.
Re: HUD, the plastic around the pivot points is very soft and over time the screws wear it away causing the mirror to fall down into the projector housing. This has been a problem since the C5. You can eliminate this by reinforcing the area with washers under the screws. Piece of cake with the dash out and saves you hassle later.
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