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Help with LS3 dying Under hard acceleration?

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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 09:41 AM
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Default Help with LS3 dying Under hard acceleration?

I bought a 13 grandsport with a bad motor. Swapped a crate ls3 in it. Car cranks and runs fine but under hard acceleration computers dies and car must be restarted. It did it with the tuner and he felt a ground was loose some where.Checked all grounds, replaced bcm,fuse box under hood , put new optima battery in. Still does it. Battery is in rear of car , it seem to do better after I cleaned the battery connectors real good but went right back to dying. Any help would be appreciated.

Last edited by billy25us; Jul 14, 2021 at 10:36 AM. Reason: Mistype
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 10:07 AM
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theres a ground at the passenger door frame....


.

also, i'm assuming that you retuned right? b/c if you went from FI to NA, you're gonna be turning your cylinders into swimming pools...

Last edited by drewz06; Jul 14, 2021 at 10:08 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by drewz06
theres a ground at the passenger door frame....

I didn't check and cleand that one. Thanks .


.

also, i'm assuming that you retuned right? b/c if you went from FI to NA, you're gonna be turning your cylinders into swimming pools...
We did retune.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 10:17 AM
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Was an LS9 MAP sensor installed when the supercharger was on the engine ?

If so, did you remove the LS9 MAP sensor and re-install an LS3 MAP sensor after you removed the supercharger ?

The LS9 MAP sensor has a red sticker on it as shown in the photo below ... The LS3 MAP sensor has a black sticker on it.


Last edited by Turbo6TA; Jul 14, 2021 at 10:22 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbo6TA
Was an LS9 MAP sensor installed when the supercharger was on the engine ?

If so, did you remove the LS9 MAP sensor and re-install an LS3 MAP sensor after you removed the supercharger ?

The LS9 MAP sensor has a red sticker on it as shown in the photo below ... The LS3 MAP sensor has a black sticker on it.

I missed where we were going. I had original said blown motor. i meant bad(blowed up) with hole in block. Not blown as in super charger.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 10:50 AM
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Ok ... I had the idea that you had an LS3 with a blower on it ... and then you removed the blower, and now have problems with it shutting down a WOT.

Sorry ...
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 10:53 AM
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Question ... Just got to know how you managed to put a hole in the block of your previous LS3.

Too much nitrous, over-reving, etc ?

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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 01:00 PM
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Drinking to much though he was racerx.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo6TA
Question ... Just got to know how you managed to put a hole in the block of your previous LS3.

Too much nitrous, over-reving, etc ?
I bought it that way.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 03:44 PM
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Did the guy you bought it from tell you how he destroyed the engine?

Or did it come out of an auction? . .(I guess then you would not know of the car's history)
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo6TA
Did the guy you bought it from tell you how he destroyed the engine?

Or did it come out of an auction? . .(I guess then you would not know of the car's history)
I have a dealers license. I bought it is an in-op.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 06:46 PM
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Broke number 7 rod and came out side of block.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 07:03 PM
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I'd start by tracing all of the big wires from start to finish. Pay special attention of the ends where the insulation stops and the connector starts. I've seen the ends of battery cables corrode under the insulation. Looks perfectly fine. Skin a little of the insulation back and you see corrosion and dust. That or a hot wire grounding occasionally from a small break in the insulation. That cable from the battery in the back to the front is long and has lots of potential for trouble. Any kind of interruption of current will drive the electrical system bat **** crazy. The engine moves a little under hard acceleration.
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Old Jul 14, 2021 | 07:39 PM
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Without a scan tool and a scope you’ll be chasing your tail with kind this issue..you’re better off taking the car to a diagnostic shop (not a repair shop) and let them look at it…they’ll hook a scope up to the car while driving looking at a few sensors and also data from the scan tool to see what’s dropping out…fuel pressure, crank/cam sensor, fuel injection or spark.

Last edited by C5 Diag; Jul 14, 2021 at 07:40 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
Without a scan tool and a scope you’ll be chasing your tail with kind this issue..you’re better off taking the car to a diagnostic shop (not a repair shop) and let them look at it…they’ll hook a scope up to the car while driving looking at a few sensors and also data from the scan tool to see what’s dropping out…fuel pressure, crank/cam sensor, fuel injection or spark.
You are correct. My partner owns a full service center. Its been on a tech2, snap on portable with latest software scanner, and the tuner had it street tuning. Unfortunately it sets no codes, and is intermediate at times. Our cost on bcm,and fuse block was only couple hundred bucks a peice so we were ruling out a random relay. Or something enternal in bcm. When I say car dies , more specific we lose 12v car will restart immediately.
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 04:16 PM
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Does your partner have a scope ???….if he owns a full service center he should !!…you are not going to find the fix for this with only a scan tool…now when you say you lose 12 volts where are you losing it ???…that’s why using a scope is essential in finding the cause of this…if not you’re just guessing and that can get expensive !!

Last edited by C5 Diag; Jul 15, 2021 at 04:24 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 04:34 PM
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[QUOTE=C5 Diag;1603734841]Does your partner have a scope ???….if he owns a full service center he should !!…you are not going to find the fix for this with only a scan tool…now when you say you lose 12 volts where are you losing it ???…that’s why using a scope is essential in finding the cause of this…if not you’re just guessing and that can get expensive !![/QUOTE
I'll ask him on the scope. Display,radio, car goes dark.
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 06:03 PM
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Attached is a document with diagrams showing all of the ground locations. You might also check & disassemble the under hood fuse block. Some of the relays may be loose and vibration causing intermittent power disconnections. Remove the bolts and separate to look for burned contacts. Repair or replace as needed.

Good luck and let us know your findings and solution.

GD
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C6 Ground Locations.docx (800.9 KB, 49 views)
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by gdmoore01
Attached is a document with diagrams showing all of the ground locations. You might also check & disassemble the under hood fuse block. Some of the relays may be loose and vibration causing intermittent power disconnections. Remove the bolts and separate to look for burned contacts. Repair or replace as needed.

Good luck and let us know your findings and solution.

GD
Thank you sir, I checked all my engine grounds,grounds, ones i would have took loose on motor swap . Im going to go thru and clean and check all the chassis grounds next. I did put a whole new fuse block under the hood.
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 09:42 PM
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Found the problem, was a bad connector on ground to block. Might have got caught when I was pulling motor and wire pulled loose from it's connector. Thanks for the help.
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