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Everything needed for Harmonic Balancer change (help)

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Old Oct 9, 2021 | 02:44 PM
  #1  
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Default Everything needed for Harmonic Balancer change (help)

So my base 2012 C6 balancer is failing and I am putting my parts list together so I can order everything today and need some help/clarity.

ARP bolt needed: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-234-2503
angle guage (is it needed?): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-4554
balancer choices:
-Powerbond https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pbb-pb1117ss
-Summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-c2501
-ATI https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...ette/year/2011

I’m a bit lost on which balancer. Lots of sheared bolt posts on ATI, several on Powerbond being hard to install, and crickets on Summit Racing’s.
Is there a tool to help drive the Powerbond HB?
Someone recommended a chrysler balancer puller, but didn’t respond to which one specifically. I’ve never seen Chrysler’s, just the universals.
Do I need to pin the new HB? Is there a preferred pinning kit? (My car is mostly stock but will only ever be a cam/header car, at most).

I’m a retired military aircraft mechanic and have done numerous engine builds on HD’s so I sure this job will be within my limits. Just having a small issue in finding what works best so this can be a once and done job.

Thanks in advance,
Chris
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Old Oct 9, 2021 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by cmashark
So my base 2012 C6 balancer is failing and I am putting my parts list together so I can order everything today and need some help/clarity.

ARP bolt needed: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-234-2503
angle guage (is it needed?): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-4554
balancer choices:
-Powerbond https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pbb-pb1117ss
-Summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-c2501
-ATI https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...ette/year/2011

I’m a bit lost on which balancer. Lots of sheared bolt posts on ATI, several on Powerbond being hard to install, and crickets on Summit Racing’s.
Is there a tool to help drive the Powerbond HB?
Someone recommended a chrysler balancer puller, but didn’t respond to which one specifically. I’ve never seen Chrysler’s, just the universals.
Do I need to pin the new HB? Is there a preferred pinning kit? (My car is mostly stock but will only ever be a cam/header car, at most).

I’m a retired military aircraft mechanic and have done numerous engine builds on HD’s so I sure this job will be within my limits. Just having a small issue in finding what works best so this can be a once and done job.

Thanks in advance,
Chris
I prefer the GM bolt myself because it's much cheaper and comes with threadlocker pre-applied to the thrust surface under the flange and because TTY is a pretty good method for reliably achieving desired elongation (which is why they do it). People badmouth it here for generally unconvincing reasons.

Whatever bolt and balancer you use, I would install a diamond washer like the factory does. It goes between the back of the balancer and the cam gear. That was GM's solution to the problem of balancers falling off of early-production C6s. I don't see anything about the ATI hub that makes this washer any less necessary. In fact, the ATIs I've measured have a bigger I.D. than the OEM balancer, which if anything makes it more necessary.

I wouldn't pin it if you don't have to. It makes it difficult to re-install the same balancer and very difficult to install a new one without drilling another hole in your crankshaft.

Get a flywheel locker. Life is difficult enough.



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Old Oct 9, 2021 | 10:03 PM
  #3  
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Everything Torque tube said...plus
make sure to replace the front cover seal.
Also since you will have access to the front of the engine, it is a good time R&R any power steering hoses, belts, or motor mounts if needed.
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Old Oct 9, 2021 | 10:20 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by 09LS3
Everything Torque tube said...plus
make sure to replace the front cover seal.
Also since you will have access to the front of the engine, it is a good time R&R any power steering hoses, belts, or motor mounts if needed.
Good call. I’ll check those consumables over tomorrow so they can be ordered if needed. Thank you.
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 03:57 PM
  #5  
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This is what I am changing on mine. 2007. I should be doing this at the end of the month, waiting on parts.

Summit 2501 Pulley
ACDELCO 6K798 Belt $ 17.09 $ 0.00 1 $ 17.09
ACDELCO 4K410 Belt $ 9.71 $ 0.00 1 $ 9.71
ACDELCO 38462 Belt Tensioner $ 49.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 49.79
ACDELCO 38328 Belt Tensioner $ 69.99 $ 0.00 1 $ 69.99
ACDELCO 36348 Idler Pulley $ 38.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 38.79 GM
GENUINE 29602 (296-02) Crankshaft Seal $ 14.99 $ 0.00 1 $ 14.99
GM GENUINE 12557840 Harmonic Balancer Bolt $ 4.55 $ 0.00 1 $ 4.55
Crunk Pin Kit
Check PS lines, you may need to replace those since you are in there.
PS fluid to replace lost fluid

Tools you may need
Chrysler Pully Puller
Flywheel lock
Pulley install bolt
250ft lb torque wrench.

Last edited by MKR_DmD; Oct 15, 2021 at 02:19 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 09:11 PM
  #6  
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Understand if you use OEM damper bolt. there is a special torque sequence, used on that bolt


Flywheel tool
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+tool&_sacat=0

seal tool

Amazon Amazon

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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 06:40 AM
  #7  
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I like the ARP balancer bolt as it is re-usable and it is a simple torque spec (245 lb-ft, if I remember). The GM bolt tightening sequence is frankly scary: Torque old bolt to 240 lb-ft, remove old bolt, install new bolt and torque to 37 lb-ft, then turn an additional 140 degrees. Ask anyone who has done this and they will tell you it feels like you are going to sheer it off in the crank.

Look up a YouTube channel called Toys4Life. He just did a 3-part video series on replacing an HB on a C5 Corvette. Pretty much everything is applicable to the C6.

As for the HB, I would go with the Powerbond.
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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 12:39 PM
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As for the diamond washer that torquetube referenced in post #2, does anyone have a part number for that or just reuse the original?
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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 12:43 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by MKR_DmD
This is what I am changing on mine. 2007. I should be doing this at the end of the money, waiting on parts.

Summit 2501 Pulley
ACDELCO 6K798 Belt $ 17.09 $ 0.00 1 $ 17.09
ACDELCO 4K410 Belt $ 9.71 $ 0.00 1 $ 9.71
ACDELCO 38462 Belt Tensioner $ 49.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 49.79
ACDELCO 38328 Belt Tensioner $ 69.99 $ 0.00 1 $ 69.99
ACDELCO 36348 Idler Pulley $ 38.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 38.79 GM
GENUINE 29602 (296-02) Crankshaft Seal $ 14.99 $ 0.00 1 $ 14.99
GM GENUINE 12557840 Harmonic Balancer Bolt $ 4.55 $ 0.00 1 $ 4.55
Crunk Pin Kit
Check PS lines, you may need to replace those since you are in there.
PS fluid to replace lost fluid

Tools you may need
Chrysler Pully Puller
Flywheel lock
Pulley install bolt
250ft lb torque wrench.

Is this the correct Chrysler tool?
Amazon Amazon

Last edited by cmashark; Oct 11, 2021 at 12:43 PM.
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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 08:31 PM
  #10  
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DO NOT install balancer without using an install tool. Very easy to ruin threads inside of crank.
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Old Oct 15, 2021 | 10:32 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by cmashark
I don't know. This is the one I ordered, but it is sold out now. I will be doing mine in a couple of weeks.

Amazon Amazon
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Old Oct 17, 2021 | 08:10 PM
  #12  
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During my search for answers, I saw several people say the could complete this in 4-6 hours. Next time, if there ever is a next time, I am paying someone to do this! I’m on day 2 and still haven’t got this damned steering rack out.

fan is out,
abs bracket is removed
sway bar is hanging
alternator is out
PS pump is loose
cradle is loose
PS rack is not connected anywhere

if I remove the boots and disconnect the inner portions of the tie rods, I wonder if it will drop out the bottom?
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 11:39 AM
  #13  
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Don't say that. I might be attempting mine in a couple of weeks. What is the problem? Getting around the brake lines or just cannot get it out to her cradle?
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cmashark
During my search for answers, I saw several people say the could complete this in 4-6 hours. Next time, if there ever is a next time, I am paying someone to do this! I’m on day 2 and still haven’t got this damned steering rack out.

fan is out,
abs bracket is removed
sway bar is hanging
alternator is out
PS pump is loose
cradle is loose
PS rack is not connected anywhere

if I remove the boots and disconnect the inner portions of the tie rods, I wonder if it will drop out the bottom?
Don't be discouraged. It always takes longer especially if you have never done this before.

First time I did a clutch change on a C5 Corvette, people said they've done it in a day. 100% bullshit. It's at least a two day job.

Keep at it, you will get it. Even when you have everything disconnected, the rack still will fight you a bit getting it out.
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 02:31 PM
  #15  
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You can remove the balancer with out removing the steering rack.
You will need to support the engine, and then lower (not remove) the front crossmember
It seems scary, but is not that difficult.
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 04:07 PM
  #16  
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I used the Summit C2501 balancer, no issues

For installation I used this:
Amazon Amazon

For removal I used this:
Amazon Amazon
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