Skip Shift Eliminator Issue
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 361
Likes: 254
From: Carrollton, VA
Skip Shift Eliminator Issue
I installed a Skip Shift Eliminator (plug in at the transmission) about a month ago. Until recently it worked just fine and not having to deal with the stupid 1st to 4th was all good. Then last week while pulling into traffic the dreaded 1st to 4th occurred. I thought maybe I simply missed the shift but it's happened a few more times...but not all the time. I've tested and about 2 out of every 6 times at low RPM acceleration it happens. No check engine lights. Has anyone else experienced this issue? Should I simply by a different SSE?
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,665
Likes: 341
I installed a Skip Shift Eliminator (plug in at the transmission) about a month ago. Until recently it worked just fine and not having to deal with the stupid 1st to 4th was all good. Then last week while pulling into traffic the dreaded 1st to 4th occurred. I thought maybe I simply missed the shift but it's happened a few more times...but not all the time. I've tested and about 2 out of every 6 times at low RPM acceleration it happens. No check engine lights. Has anyone else experienced this issue? Should I simply by a different SSE?
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,665
Likes: 341
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,665
Likes: 341
If the eliminator is bad, it will set off the check engine light, but since it makes you unplug the harness to CAGS, it cannot make it shift when plugged in. If you plugged in a CAGS eliminator and your car is still going 1-4 it is not plugged into the CAGS.
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Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 538
Likes: 41
From: Alameda CA
I installed a Skip Shift Eliminator (plug in at the transmission) about a month ago. Until recently it worked just fine and not having to deal with the stupid 1st to 4th was all good. Then last week while pulling into traffic the dreaded 1st to 4th occurred. I thought maybe I simply missed the shift but it's happened a few more times...but not all the time. I've tested and about 2 out of every 6 times at low RPM acceleration it happens. No check engine lights. Has anyone else experienced this issue? Should I simply by a different SSE?
Have you considered trying a CAGS LED fuse?
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 105
Likes: 95
From: Odessa, TX
Well, I confirmed my skip shift is present in the car. I have an eliminator and will install it tomorrow. With regards to them going bad, yes they can. The eliminators are simply a resistor across two leads that fake out the controller into thinking the solenoid is still there. If it is of the style that plugs into the chassis harness then into the trans, a failure of the resistor (and it does happen) COULD cause an activation of the solenoid if the wiring somehow maintains continuity around the resistor. Or maybe the wiring melted on the exhaust. Who knows. A replacement unit is cheap and will likely solve the problem.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 538
Likes: 41
From: Alameda CA
Well, I confirmed my skip shift is present in the car. I have an eliminator and will install it tomorrow. With regards to them going bad, yes they can. The eliminators are simply a resistor across two leads that fake out the controller into thinking the solenoid is still there. If it is of the style that plugs into the chassis harness then into the trans, a failure of the resistor (and it does happen) COULD cause an activation of the solenoid if the wiring somehow maintains continuity around the resistor. Or maybe the wiring melted on the exhaust. Who knows. A replacement unit is cheap and will likely solve the problem.
With a C6 and it's dedicated skip-shift fuse, I prefer a CAGS LED fuse or a CAGS resistor. For my 2nd gen CTS-V (with a fuse shared with the reverse lockout solenoid), I made a custom cable (using delphi connectors from mouser.com) that plugs into both the factory harness and the solenoid, that way I didn't have to worry about dirt or water getting into anything. I used a 20K Ω (in series with the 120 Ω solenoid).
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 2,499
Likes: 1,165
From: Northern Wisconsin
One I saw that failed was a 24 Ω resistor that was only 1/2 watt (!), at 13.7 V is more than 1/2 amp or almost 8 watts! A better value is 2.2K Ω which will only draw 6 mA.
With a C6 and it's dedicated skip-shift fuse, I prefer a CAGS LED fuse or a CAGS resistor. For my 2nd gen CTS-V (with a fuse shared with the reverse lockout solenoid), I made a custom cable (using delphi connectors from mouser.com) that plugs into both the factory harness and the solenoid, that way I didn't have to worry about dirt or water getting into anything. I used a 20K Ω (in series with the 120 Ω solenoid).
With a C6 and it's dedicated skip-shift fuse, I prefer a CAGS LED fuse or a CAGS resistor. For my 2nd gen CTS-V (with a fuse shared with the reverse lockout solenoid), I made a custom cable (using delphi connectors from mouser.com) that plugs into both the factory harness and the solenoid, that way I didn't have to worry about dirt or water getting into anything. I used a 20K Ω (in series with the 120 Ω solenoid).