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Clutch pedal issues

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Old Dec 29, 2021 | 10:52 PM
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Default Clutch pedal issues

I recently purchased a c6 corvette about a month ago. It’s got a stage three cam, ported heads, a stage 2 clutch etc. not sure if any of those things are relevant to what I have going on but about 2 days ago I went for a drive, wasn’t doing anything crazy just driving about 40mph and as I go to press the clutch in to downshift into second I realized the clutch was more or less on the floor. I put it in neutral and had to pull over because I could no longer get it in gear. After sitting for 10-15 mins I was able to get it back home. Now every time I drive the car for about 20 mins I have the same issue. Now that I know about it I pay more attention to it and can feel the pedal get looser and looser. After reading about it I found that it could be a bad slave cylinder or a clutch master cylinder. So I ordered a new master cylinder and went to replace it and discovered that the previous owner who built the car put in a tick performance master cylinder. My question is could the master cylinder go bad again? The car only has 60,000 miles. Or is it the slave/ something else. If anybody has had this problem or know about it let me know. Any kind of information helps. I was trying to avoid replacing the slave but if it needs to be replaced then I’ll have it done! Thanks!
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Old Dec 29, 2021 | 11:17 PM
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If you’re able to do the job yourself it’s a no brainer to pull the master cylinder and replace with an OEM one. They’re about $100. It’s definitely possible that it could be just the master cylinder.
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Old Dec 30, 2021 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by slowtealz28
If you’re able to do the job yourself it’s a no brainer to pull the master cylinder and replace with an OEM one. They’re about $100. It’s definitely possible that it could be just the master cylinder.
okay I’ll try that today and see if it makes any difference. That’s or the help!
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Old Dec 30, 2021 | 04:26 PM
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bleed and remove the helper spring if it's still installed (under the dash). Those are easy first steps
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Old Dec 30, 2021 | 08:43 PM
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Just wanted to give an update in case anybody else has this issue. I got in touch with the previous owner and it turns out he installed a speed bleeder to the slave cylinder so I didn’t end up replacing my master cylinder. I cycled 2 full bottles or 36 ounces of clutch fluid through the system until it came out totally clear, I also noticed some air bubbles coming out of the master cylinder reservoir when I had the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor as I was bleeding the slave which could have been my problem. After that I took the car for a drive and it seemed to have fixed my problems!
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Old Jan 1, 2022 | 02:08 PM
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"Now every time I drive the car for about 20 mins I have the same issue".
Could this be a heat issue?
Insulate lines, etc.??
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Old Jan 1, 2022 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Sayfoo
"Now every time I drive the car for about 20 mins I have the same issue".
Could this be a heat issue?
Insulate lines, etc.??
Unless the issue comes back he already fixed the problem. Sounds like it had air in the system.
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Old Jan 3, 2022 | 12:05 AM
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This is a common issues in M6 cars due to the clutch fluid getting hot with aftermarket headers, you just need to use the ranger method and change the fluid often. I do it at least once a month, especially if you drive the car hard.
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Old Jan 3, 2022 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeE45
This is a common issues in M6 cars due to the clutch fluid getting hot with aftermarket headers, you just need to use the ranger method and change the fluid often. I do it at least once a month, especially if you drive the car hard.
I’m I do to ranger method very frequently. Honestly probably more often than needed. But it didn’t seem to help anything other than keeping the fluid in the reservoir clean. After using the speed bleeder the previous owner installed on the car it took two and a half bottles of clutch fluid for it to come out clear. Maybe I’m doing something wrong when doing the ranger method I’m not too sure. That being said, I’m still going to continue doing it because it does make sense. I’m just not sure how affective it actually is…
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Old Jan 3, 2022 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Jdahlum
I’m I do to ranger method very frequently. Honestly probably more often than needed. But it didn’t seem to help anything other than keeping the fluid in the reservoir clean. After using the speed bleeder the previous owner installed on the car it took two and a half bottles of clutch fluid for it to come out clear. Maybe I’m doing something wrong when doing the ranger method I’m not too sure. That being said, I’m still going to continue doing it because it does make sense. I’m just not sure how affective it actually is…
Do you know what clutch is in the car? Some aftermarket clutches do not work well with the Tick Master and you may be better off putting a stock MS back in.
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Old Jan 4, 2022 | 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Spaceme1117
Do you know what clutch is in the car? Some aftermarket clutches do not work well with the Tick Master and you may be better off putting a stock MS back in.
When I bought the car I was told it had a “Mcloud stage two clutch” but I think he meant mcleod as I’ve never heard of mcloud. Again I could be wrong but that’s was my assumption.
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Old Jan 4, 2022 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Spaceme1117
Do you know what clutch is in the car? Some aftermarket clutches do not work well with the Tick Master and you may be better off putting a stock MS back in.
You don't need a Tick. Waste of money. I did the same. Fell into that same bullshit it's awesome, u need it. Well going back to stock M/C was the best thing i ever did to my car. Stock M/C easy works with over 1k hp. JMO.
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Old Jan 4, 2022 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Jdahlum
When I bought the car I was told it had a “Mcloud stage two clutch” but I think he meant mcleod as I’ve never heard of mcloud. Again I could be wrong but that’s was my assumption.
I don't know about Tick Mast and Mcleod clutch compatibility but with my Monster LT1-S twin disc clutch, Monster specifically says to use the OEM GM master with it and to remove the factory clutch spring.

Maybe you have solved your issue with the clutch fluid bleeding but if you still have problems, I would definitely try putting back in an OEM master.
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Old Jan 4, 2022 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Spaceme1117
I don't know about Tick Mast and Mcleod clutch compatibility but with my Monster LT1-S twin disc clutch, Monster specifically says to use the OEM GM master with it and to remove the factory clutch spring.

Maybe you have solved your issue with the clutch fluid bleeding but if you still have problems, I would definitely try putting back in an OEM master.

I know people that have run Mcleod twins with the Tick masters with no issues.
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Old Jan 5, 2022 | 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Spaceme1117
I don't know about Tick Mast and Mcleod clutch compatibility but with my Monster LT1-S twin disc clutch, Monster specifically says to use the OEM GM master with it and to remove the factory clutch spring.

Maybe you have solved your issue with the clutch fluid bleeding but if you still have problems, I would definitely try putting back in an OEM master.
thank you! I’ll definitely keep that in mind. I sent the stock MC back because I fixed the issue I was having with the tick… but if more problems come up I might just order another stock one to put back in.
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