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I have searched multiple times using the (awful) forum search option and google but haven't quite found what I am looking for.
I want to remove the rear plugs for the steam vents on my 2011 GS with LS3. It looks like this should be possible with the engine in the car. i know I will need to remove the intake to get to them but that is fine. I am thinking I could use a right angle attachment for my drill and then carefully drill the plugs out. Use a vacuum while I drill to catch the chips and not allow them to go into the cooling system.
Was thinking I may be able to fit an LS1 4-corner steam vent tube as I have an E-force with spacers that elevates the supercharger above the valley plate area so I should have clearance.
Thoughts or advice?
(I know its debatable if 4-corner steam vents are needed but this is really just a project for the spring that I am thinking of because I enjoy modifying my car.)
Why? Yes it can be done because I had to fool with them when I put heads on my LS2. I put lower profile aftermarket plugs on. Don't see any point of doing anything else, the vents in the front are sufficient, you don't need any in the back.
Why? Yes it can be done because I had to fool with them when I put heads on my LS2. I put lower profile aftermarket plugs on. Don't see any point of doing anything else, the vents in the front are sufficient, you don't need any in the back.
I know I don't NEED the back ports but I WANT to plum them in. More flow and cooling is always better and a lot of people especially on high horsepower builds specifically run the back ports for better rear cylinder cooling.
I know I don't NEED the back ports but I WANT to plum them in. More flow and cooling is always better and a lot of people especially on high horsepower builds specifically run the back ports for better rear cylinder cooling.
If you're going to remove them, I'd first go to a dealer, and see how long the plugs are. Then I'd try to drill down short of breaking thru to the coolant passage. I don't have a set of heads in front of me,, so my recommended sizes may be a bit off. I'd use a tap drill size for an M4 tap, or whatever size tap you need. Then tap the plug. Use a bolt with matching threads (of course!) to pull the plug out. I'd use a short, 1/4" drive socket, maybe an 8mm? Place the bolt, with a couple flat washers, thru the socket. Then use a box end, or combination wrench on the bolt to pull it out. This should work. If you must drill thru the plug, use some thick grease on the drill bit to, hopefully, hold any chips that may fall into the coolant passage. Good luck, and please post results.
If you're going to remove them, I'd first go to a dealer, and see how long the plugs are. Then I'd try to drill down short of breaking thru to the coolant passage. I don't have a set of heads in front of me,, so my recommended sizes may be a bit off. I'd use a tap drill size for an M4 tap, or whatever size tap you need. Then tap the plug. Use a bolt with matching threads (of course!) to pull the plug out. I'd use a short, 1/4" drive socket, maybe an 8mm? Place the bolt, with a couple flat washers, thru the socket. Then use a box end, or combination wrench on the bolt to pull it out. This should work. If you must drill thru the plug, use some thick grease on the drill bit to, hopefully, hold any chips that may fall into the coolant passage. Good luck, and please post results.
From research I have done online, the plug is actually just a simple rivet. From the pictures I have seen online, is looks to be maybe about a 1/4 inch in length.
Using a tap and bolt to remove the plug is a good idea and I may try that.
I will post pictures when I do this in a few months. Have to wait until we get some warmer weather here in Kentucky. Thanks.
From research I have done online, the plug is actually just a simple rivet. From the pictures I have seen online, is looks to be maybe about a 1/4 inch in length.
Using a tap and bolt to remove the plug is a good idea and I may try that.
I will post pictures when I do this in a few months. Have to wait until we get some warmer weather here in Kentucky. Thanks.
If the plugs are only 1/4" long, I'd drill it as close as possible to 7/32" deep. Then I'd use a flat bottom drill. Grind the point off whatever tap you use, if it does indeed have a point on the threaded end. Then tap it to the full depth. Then use, or make, a bottom tap out of the existing tap. This will get you as many threads as possible, all the way to the bottomof the plug. I'd also grind the end of the bolt you'll be using as flat as possible, for maximum thread engagement. Thread a couple of nuts onto the bolt BEFORE grinding the bolt end flat. This will allow you to 'chase' the threads of the bolt after grinding its end. This is done by simply threading the nuts off the bolt, so it will assure the bolts threads will screw into your freshly tapped hole without any issues. This method WILL NOT WORK IF THE PLUG STARTS TURNING WITH THE BOLT AS YOU'RE TURNING THE BOLT WITH A WRENCH!! If that happens, you may have to resort to using a slide/back hammer, or somehow pry on the bolt to 'pop' the plugs out. This can be tricky to do with the engine in the vehicle. I wish you luck....
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