help. speedometer not working
Last edited by rsb213; Apr 28, 2022 at 12:16 AM.
Or just swap the VSS sensor and pray like hell that the wires are not broken in the harness, and this causing the problem.
Or just swap the VSS sensor and pray like hell that the wires are not broken in the harness, and this causing the problem.
When I got under the car the wire at the VSS is orange w/ black stripe and tan w/ white stripe. Guessing the diagram is wrong year/option, but its the only one I can find.
EDIT*
Those wires that are connected to my VSS connector according to the diagram are from trans fluid temp sensor. The speedo stopped working after I had someone change my clutch so I wonder if they re-connected the wrong connector somewhere.
Last edited by rsb213; Apr 28, 2022 at 02:14 PM.
Edit* works perfectly!
Last edited by rsb213; Apr 28, 2022 at 03:01 PM.
So short of pulling up GMSI and having your year and model with or without F55 to give you the correct wiring diagrams, easy way is to just look at the VSS connector wires colors, trace them back to the C connectors up front, and check to make sure that wires are not broken.
Also, be dam sure to check the connector wire colors both sides for match ups, since again, different pining of different model loom connectors and could be wires are fine, but rear wire loom changed and its not pinned the same as the car side of the connector.
Also, on the rear wiring loom, its loose with single protector wrap all the way to the start section of the Torque tube, and at that section going down the TT, extra plastic protector on the loom . So between motor heat, and Upper S part of the loom moving, but added plastic outer piece section not moving, it at this point that the wires love to crack.

The fact that all this started around the time of the clutch swap when the drive line was R&R, either swapped loom, or wires cracked when the loom was moved around with the Drive line Removal and reinstall.
As for if you do have cracked/split wires, cross pipe and tt cover plate have to be remove, and if you do need to repair the wires just in front of the added plastic wrap, do not solder splice the wires back in there. Pull back a section of the plastic hard shielding to put one section of the wire splice under it, then work your way back up the S bend to spice the other end up back up there. Hence brand new unmolested wire as the end of S bend to hard plastic outer shielding piece.
So short of pulling up GMSI and having your year and model with or without F55 to give you the correct wiring diagrams, easy way is to just look at the VSS connector wires colors, trace them back to the C connectors up front, and check to make sure that wires are not broken.
Also, be dam sure to check the connector wire colors both sides for match ups, since again, different pining of different model loom connectors and could be wires are fine, but rear wire loom changed and its not pinned the same as the car side of the connector.
Also, on the rear wiring loom, its loose with single protector wrap all the way to the start section of the Torque tube, and at that section going down the TT, extra plastic protector on the loom . So between motor heat, and Upper S part of the loom moving, but added plastic outer piece section not moving, it at this point that the wires love to crack.

The fact that all this started around the time of the clutch swap when the drive line was R&R, either swapped loom, or wires cracked when the loom was moved around with the Drive line Removal and reinstall.
As for if you do have cracked/split wires, cross pipe and tt cover plate have to be remove, and if you do need to repair the wires just in front of the added plastic wrap, do not solder splice the wires back in there. Pull back a section of the plastic hard shielding to put one section of the wire splice under it, then work your way back up the S bend to spice the other end up back up there. Hence brand new unmolested wire as the end of S bend to hard plastic outer shielding piece.












