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My 2005 Convertible has been tough on batteries since purchased in 2011 with 8500 miles, it now has 112K. It was manageable when I drove it daily, because of COVID, I now work from home so the car goes 3-4 days without driving anywhere. When turned off the current drain is normal (0.3A) so techs have not been able to find the problem. When the car sits for more than a day, the battery will be drained. I stuck an inductive amp meter on it and checked it overnight. The next day the drain was 1.2A , when fuse 12 was pulled the drain went back to normal. The owners manual shows fuse 12 is the odd numbered fuel injectors. I would love to hear any ideas on how to replace the board that controls the odd numbered fuel injectors.
Bob, WELCOME to the Forum !!...yes, fuse 12 controls the odd injectors but the injectors are "ground side switched"...the ECM is controlling the ground to fire the injectors so it wouldn't be an ECM board issue...power for the injectors is through relay 44 I believe...power for the injectors is absent with the car off...you sure you have the right fuse ??...,now the injector driver could be stuck closed but as long as there is no power to the injectors they won't fire...if you had power to the injectors the fuel would flood the cylinder of whichever injector driver is stuck closed.
My 2005 Convertible has been tough on batteries since purchased in 2011 with 8500 miles, it now has 112K. It was manageable when I drove it daily, because of COVID, I now work from home so the car goes 3-4 days without driving anywhere. When turned off the current drain is normal (0.3A) so techs have not been able to find the problem. When the car sits for more than a day, the battery will be drained. I stuck an inductive amp meter on it and checked it overnight. The next day the drain was 1.2A , when fuse 12 was pulled the drain went back to normal. The owners manual shows fuse 12 is the odd numbered fuel injectors. I would love to hear any ideas on how to replace the board that controls the odd numbered fuel injectors.
Fuse 12 protects odd injectors and ignition coil modules. Try methodically unplugging the coils next.
Fuse 12 protects odd injectors and ignition coil modules. Try methodically unplugging the coils next.
Yes, fuse powers both injectors and coil packs but I don’t see how a coil pack can cause a parasitic drain with the engine off ??…if coil power wire would short to ground I would expect to see the fuse blow and not kill the battery.
As the voltage on the battery drops, funny things can happen in the engine control. It is not supposed to happen. It sounds to me like the ECM is getting confused, as the voltage slowly drops, and turning on items that should not be enabled when the car is off.
Check the battery voltage when you see this happening. I bet it is less than 12.5 volts.
This is why so many people use battery tenders, to prevent this kind of thing from happening.
You don't say if your '05 if manual or auto, but being an '05 manual owner since new, I can tell you that these cars must be shut down in Reverse in order to avoid parasitic drain. Matter of fact, the '05's originally came with a warning tag on the shifter, reminding drivers to shift to Reverse when shutting down. Likewise, a battery tender (not a charger) is necessary to protect battery life if the vehicle is parked for more than 3 or 4 days. If it's an auto, can't help you.
Correction, it is Fuse 11 that causes the drain. My current meter must take a couple seconds to drop off, so I had moved to 12 before I saw the drop. I repeated the fuse pulls after catching the car in the same excess drain again. Taking some time with each fuse out I was able to identify fuse 11 which makes more sense. This is the Engine Control, Transmission Control, Easy Key modules. Where is this module located?
It is manual, the car is in reverse when the drain occurs. The car always reads 0.3A when shut off. It is some hours later the drain jumps to 1.2A and I have identified the fuse carrying the current is fuse 11 (not 12 as originally thought).
A couple days would be great, This can happen overnight. I now leave it on a battery tender at night. That is how I was able to catch it before the voltage dropped to low to believe anything was working properly. There is something waking up after the car has been turned off for a few hours, maybe a day or two, it is random. I see the current draw go from 0.3A to 1.2A. Something on Fuse 11 is randomly waking up and draining the battery. There are 3 modules on this fuse, How do I take the next step to figure out which one or are all 3 in the same replaceable module?
I agree, something is getting confused. I leave it on a battery tender now when it is in the garage. I still see the 1.2a draw when connected to the battery tender, so it is not low voltage causing it, but either the EMC or Transmission control, or easy mode entry is turning something on. Any thoughts on which to replace 1st?
Pull battery cables off, touch them together, Pull every relay on fuse box and inspect for burn marks, clean contacts. Use a battery terminal cleaner on the posts, clean inside battery cable clamps.
You may need to pull up your seats by the bolts a bit and reach in and unplug and clean contacts on the box under them.
I took apart my fuse box all 3 layers, cleaned all contacts with the red bottle electric contact cleaner. Removed oxidation on pins.
I always thought the power drain was caused by the passive FOB monitors never turning off. I just run a battery tender to a magnetic plug (like on the exotics) and I never run into battery issues. This has been a known issue for decades, why fight it? Just put a tender on it and be done.
I always thought the power drain was caused by the passive FOB monitors never turning off. I just run a battery tender to a magnetic plug (like on the exotics) and I never run into battery issues. This has been a known issue for decades, why fight it? Just put a tender on it and be done.
This is a concern for ALL cars and not just Corvettes !!…a battery tender is just a band aid fix…spend a few hours diagnosing it correctly and be done with it…parasitic drains can be caused by faulty alternators, any of the cars modules or motors.
This is a concern for ALL cars and not just Corvettes !!…a battery tender is just a band aid fix…spend a few hours diagnosing it correctly and be done with it…parasitic drains can be caused by faulty alternators, any of the cars modules or motors.
Except when it's a passive system that you can't turn off...just sayin'. How can anyone tell how much parasitic drain is too much parasitic drain?
Except when it's a passive system that you can't turn off...just sayin'. How can anyone tell how much parasitic drain is too much parasitic drain?
That is why all modern cars have some kind of parasitic drain to take into account those “passive” modules…the drain for any car is sometimes in service info or “rule of thumb” is the reserve capacity of the battery divided by 4….100 minute reserve capacity drain would be around 25 milliamps.
That is why all cars have some kind of parasitic drain to take into account those “passive” modules…the drain for any car is sometimes in service info or “rule of thumb” is the reserve capacity of the battery divided by 4….100 minute reserve capacity drain would be around 25 milliamps.
You just beat m to it. I use the same 25mA rule of thumb for any car because for the most part a car battery is a car battery. You start to become aware of battery life problems at 50mA. At 500mA the car probably won't start after sitting overnight. Because this rule is universal, it is worth remembering.