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I was driving around yesterday for about an hour and while using part throttle the engine shut off. I pulled over and when trying to start, it started, stumbled, and shut off. Then after a couple attempts, it wouldn't even fire. It seems like the fuel pump isn't coming on. I don't hear it when I try to start the car and it didn't throw any codes. I checked the fuse, swapped relays, and checked out the ECS boost-a-pump fuse and wiring. Everything is OK from what I can tell. When should I get power to the fuel pump? Just when starting or can I push the start button to the on position without the clutch and get power sent to the pump for a few seconds like other cars when turning the key to on? Before I go and cut out the boost-a-pump to wire the fuel pump directly as it originally was, I want to understand when I should see power back there.
Well, what I was afraid would happen happened. I didn't really fix anything and the car runs again. All I did was unplug and plug back in the connector for the harness above the transmission while testing and now power is getting to the pump again. The connector wasn't burnt or corroded. I tried pulling on the BAP wiring while the engine was running and wiggled the relay, but nothing affected it. I don't want to even leave my driveway until I find a problem.
Most likely your issue lies in the fuseblock at the relay connecting terminal.
It's the easiest fix, so I'd honestly try that first.
Pull apart that section of the fuse block and recrimp the tiny wire connecter. Then add dielectric grease and reassemble.
If that doesn't fix the issue, utilize a meter and start at the fuse block and work your way back.
Racetronix makes a harness for around $80 that bypasses the fuseblock and powers directly off the alternator plugging directly into the fuel module and bap (with the aditional connector they sell for like $8). This solved my intermittent fuel module short which was always at the worst time.
Most likely your issue lies in the fuseblock at the relay connecting terminal.
It's the easiest fix, so I'd honestly try that first.
Pull apart that section of the fuse block and recrimp the tiny wire connecter. Then add dielectric grease and reassemble.
If that doesn't fix the issue, utilize a meter and start at the fuse block and work your way back.
Racetronix makes a harness for around $80 that bypasses the fuseblock and powers directly off the alternator plugging directly into the fuel module and bap (with the aditional connector they sell for like $8). This solved my intermittent fuel module short which was always at the worst time.
Thanks. I'll get into the fuse box tomorrow. I might just go with the Racetronix harness anyway because I'm not going to have much confidence if I can't reproduce the problem in my garage.
Now I feel better that I found the problem. I'm still not leaving my driveway without a better circuit to the fuel pump. I couldn't get that terminal out the back and much of the surrounding area was very brittle, which started to crumble as I tried to release the terminal. I didn't want to force it and make it so it wouldn't stay in place. I was able to push it out forward and clean it up with a pick. The blade that plugs into it was blackened with charred grease. I'll see if I can get hold of a new block and swap it in. If not, it should be fine with how I've cleaned it all up as long as I don't pull significant power through there again.
Fuel pump troubleshooting
