Oil leak after cam install
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Oil leak after cam install
I recently put a cam in my ‘13 grand sport and I just noticed today that there is a tiny bit of oil coming from my crank seal. I didnt have the alignment tool for the cover but i fitted the HB to technically “align” it before torquing the cover bolts down. I tightened the bottom 2 pan bolts first and then the rest of the bolts in a side to side sequence. When i went to check the bolts again after driving the car, i noticed the 2 bottom bolts werent as tight as the others so i just gave them a good snug and they tightened up. Ran the car for 30 minutes and didnt see anymore oil coming from the seal but I am worried ive already damaged the new seal. Is it possible that tightening those bottom 2 bolts where the pan meets the timing cover corrected my issue? Or am I going to have to start looking for time to pull this timing cover back off?
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did you catch the leak right away? Ive put 10 miles on the car just for that very reason to make sure nothing was leaking and sure enough…
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Lexington South Carolina
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Apex, NC
It sounds like you pressed the HB on the crankshaft with the front cover loose; is that right? Used sealant at the corners where the cover, pan and block meet? I think my only concern would be that if the cover was forward of the rubber part of the oil pan gasket, you could scrape it off as the cover goes back flush with the block, but I guess you can see it's leaking around the seal. I don't have an alignment tool but work on LS engines a lot. I set the side-side clearance between the seal and the crank using whatever is handy to measure the gap to make sure it's even on both sides and never have trouble. That way I tighten the front cover completely before pressing the balancer on.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: South Florida
I did my front seal the same way- without an alignment tool. I have 20,000 miles on the cam and notice some bit of oil residue slinging around the seal area.
Apparently the alignment tool is worth its weight. I went ahead and ordered the saccity corvette alignment tool - nice metal, not 3D printed or plastic. I got front and rear and the oil barbell too. I'll live with the tiny residue for now, wipe it up every 10 or 20k or whatever. But next time the engine has to come out for any reason- I'll be ready. $.02
Apparently the alignment tool is worth its weight. I went ahead and ordered the saccity corvette alignment tool - nice metal, not 3D printed or plastic. I got front and rear and the oil barbell too. I'll live with the tiny residue for now, wipe it up every 10 or 20k or whatever. But next time the engine has to come out for any reason- I'll be ready. $.02
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Navigator
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It sounds like you pressed the HB on the crankshaft with the front cover loose; is that right? Used sealant at the corners where the cover, pan and block meet? I think my only concern would be that if the cover was forward of the rubber part of the oil pan gasket, you could scrape it off as the cover goes back flush with the block, but I guess you can see it's leaking around the seal. I don't have an alignment tool but work on LS engines a lot. I set the side-side clearance between the seal and the crank using whatever is handy to measure the gap to make sure it's even on both sides and never have trouble. That way I tighten the front cover completely before pressing the balancer on.
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Navigator
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I definitely smelled oil burning on my first drive and figured it was residual from loosening the pan. After snugging those two lower bolts down last night, i dont smell anything and everything is still dry. Hopefully i walked away a lucky man from having to tear it back down again. Ill continue to watch it and will update everyone. Thank you all for your help!
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 173
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From: Apex, NC
I definitely smelled oil burning on my first drive and figured it was residual from loosening the pan. After snugging those two lower bolts down last night, i dont smell anything and everything is still dry. Hopefully i walked away a lucky man from having to tear it back down again. Ill continue to watch it and will update everyone. Thank you all for your help!
Race Director
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I haven't used the tool, but have centered the cover w/o the seal in place, using adjustable parallels. Anyway, I'll get the Sac City tool next time. I've never understood why GM didnt dowel the covers. Well, I guess I do-$$$$!! Keep in mind the only alignment that needs to be correct is horizontal plane, because the cover must stop, and self align in the vertical plane against the pan gasket aluminum. I placed some Hi Temp black RTV on the bottom of the cover, and a skin coating on the aluminum of the pan gasket, snugged my cover perimeter bolts hand tight, then snugged the 2 pan bolts hand tight. Then torqued the cover bolts, and then the pan bolts. Its worked for me. Just be sure to thoroughly clean all the old RTV from the pan gasket and cover bottom. This method should work for most, but I guarantee only the first 10 seconds, or 10 feet, whichever.......
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Just an update… crank seal is ok. After brake cleaning everything, I drove it until oil got to 160* and when I inspected it, the oil is leaking from the oil pan gasket. I put a bead of rtv on the corners of the pan gasket where it meets the timing cover but nowhere else. Is it possible I needed to put a bead across the front as well?
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 173
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From: Apex, NC
Just an update… crank seal is ok. After brake cleaning everything, I drove it until oil got to 160* and when I inspected it, the oil is leaking from the oil pan gasket. I put a bead of rtv on the corners of the pan gasket where it meets the timing cover but nowhere else. Is it possible I needed to put a bead across the front as well?
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No, the front of the oil pan gasket has a rubber seal on it so it should seal the front cover fine there. I only put sealant and the two corners; I place the front cover gasket into the sealant so that it gets some on the back and front of the gasket as it goes on. I've never had one leak. Did you do the walk on of the cover method? You tighten the front lower bolts to pull the cover up to the block, loosen, then tighten the two bolts under the pan, pulling the cover down to the pan, loosen them, then repeat. This pulls the cover into the corner and makes for a good seal. I always tighten the pan bolts first as the final pass but that's after I've checked the side to side clearance of the front seal to the crankshaft to make sure the spacing is even.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: South Florida
The corners are tricky because oil can leak down from behind the seal while the permatex is setting up.
I recommend clean it with brake cleaner, use a razor blade to make sure the mating surface of metal is fully clean and cleared and dry.
Then, let it sit in the air for 5 or 10 minutes and feel around for oil residue that has leaked into the area you intend to seal.
It may help to let the engine sit for a day or two before beginning the procedure or once the cover is removed to let the oil stop seeping.
I recommend clean it with brake cleaner, use a razor blade to make sure the mating surface of metal is fully clean and cleared and dry.
Then, let it sit in the air for 5 or 10 minutes and feel around for oil residue that has leaked into the area you intend to seal.
It may help to let the engine sit for a day or two before beginning the procedure or once the cover is removed to let the oil stop seeping.