2005 Vert.
Anyone replace these hoses themselves?
Especially the passenger side upper cylinder hoses?
Any tricks, secrets, routing, reusing plastic clips, issues, etc.?

My problem seems to be either hose 23 and 24 is leaking, (chaffed, hole, split) somewhere in line to the upper cylinder, and needs replacing.
I have the Kent Moore tool for installing the hose c-clip retainer, and new retainer c-clips, at the pump, and new o-rings and retainers for the cylinder.
Also have the factory service manual, which I will say is "light" on detailed instructions for hose replacement.

If not hose 23 or 24 then it may be the hoses transversing to the driver's side, or the lower passenger roof cylinder, both of which I could also use further insights into the replacement. Especially how much of the canvas roof or what other components need to be removed for access, if at all.

Diagnosing is "difficult" for me. The way I am approaching this is to thoroughly clean the leaked oil, then refill the pump oil and look for leaks. As opposed to fully removing the hoses to inspect.

FWIW. What I can add at this time is that I first remove the rear horizontal side window weatherstrip seal and metal strip retainer, and also remove the vertical side window rear weatherstrip and metal retainer, further remove that vertical weatherstrip (partially) at the bottom of the rear of the top, the two interior plastic trim panels and then peal back a portion of the canvas top. Those steps "seem" to give me good vision and access for hose 23 and 24 diagnoses and replacements.
Lastly, many of these parts are discontinued by GM and the company, Top Hydraulics, seems to be the hose parts (also pump/ cylinder rebuild) source.
Yes, the manual states to fully remove the pump for hose installation, which I would do after I find the leak.

 

You may find it helpful in finding your leaks if you follow the process often used for finding oil leaks in engines. A special dye is added to the oil, and then after operating for a short while, a black light is used to visually inspect for leaks. The fresh oil leaks with dye will show up brightly. If you give this a try, just make sure the dye is compatible with hydraulic systems.

 

FWIW.
Diagnosis - once "everything" was exposed (eg interior trim, partial roof canvas, weatherstrip, etc) -
With the roof in an up position, I had an assistant press the power top raise/lower dash button while I looked for a leak.
Leak was obvious, only needed the button pressed for 1 second, so roof travel was minimized.

The leak was a split in a hose going to the upper (on the roof bar) hydraulic cylinder.
Over time, where the 2 hoses (# 23 & # 24) change direction from vertical to horizontal, and attain an "L" shape, well that is the failure point... the "L".
(LOL Blowing your breath into a hose to find the leak is futile; to find the hole/ split you need high pressure.)

Top Hydraulics company (search internet) is outstanding.
(I recommend them highly, a source for hoses, o-rings, pumps, and cylinders as needed, plus knowledge !!)
Factory Service Manual, IMO, I would not begin this repair without it.

Last comment is to pay special attention to the hose and wire routing and to the locations of clips, zip ties, retainers, tape, felt, and all.
Particular tools, special tools, particular zip ties and tape, and special GM parts are needed; many parts are small and some parts are unattainable new.
Your GM's dealer parts computer is much better than the internet dealer's search engines.
I could rate this repair (at least for the passenger side upper cylinder) a 6 on a 10 scale for difficulty.
I'd foresee the driver-side upper cylinder being an 8 of 10 difficulty.
Taking my time, this was an 8-hour job.

My next mission on this project is removing the odor of the spewed oil.
Good luck to all chasing a leak.