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I have a 2009 A6 Z51 with a few mods on it already and I'm finally coming around to the idea of doing a cam.
I'm debating between a tx speed stage 1 and the spinmonster cam. I've read a bit about and to me (someone who understands almost nothing about cams lol) it looks good. I haven't been able to find out if that cam would require a new torque converter for the car too and if so, what stall?
I'm also seeing mixed things about porting the heads, I see a lot say the heads are more than fine the way they are but I just feel like maybe I'm leaving stuff on the table to not port them.
Any suggestions and answers are greatly appreciated! Thanks!
A 'Stage 1' cam more than likely will not require a high stall torque converter, but if you do install lets say a 2,800 stall converter, the car won't pull so hard while idling at traffic lights ... the 'road manners' will be improved and to be honest, the converter will more than likely give you better straight line drag racing performance than just the mild aftermarket cam.
Up to you ... but if you opt for a high stall converter, don't go crazy on the stall speed ... A 2,800 stall will be more than enough.
BTW ... The stall on the stock converter is only about 1,700 rpm, so even a 2,800 stall converter will make a pretty big difference.
I’m running a TSP stage 1 with a stock converter and I’ve had no issues. Maybe in the future I might bump the converter up, but it really does fine with the stock one. I don’t race or track the car just aggressive driving….
I first went with a 3200 stall Yank. It was so smooth, yet quick. I wondered why it didn't come OEM that way. Fuel economy of course.
Then swapped to a 3600, and it got even quicker. Finally,went to a 4000 and ran 10's in the 1/4 with only simple bolt-ons.
I drove the car cross-country and for 40K miles with the 4000 stall, since the converter lock-up still got 30+ mpg or the road and 22+ in town.
Nothing else makes that much difference for twice the price.
Comparing the two cams, Spins should make more power from maybe 3750rpm on up. Tx Speed cam would probably have a little advantage below that. The Tx speed cam would probably work a little better with a stock converter. It's going to have a higher DCR which will help low rpm power. It will probably have a rougher idle due to the higher DCR vs Spin's cam even though the overlap is lower. You wouldn't go far wrong with either one.
I wouldn't pull the heads just for port work. If the heads had to come off anyway, say for a lifter swap, I'd send them off to Tx Speed for port work, milling, and a valve job. You get completely reworked, ported, milled if you want, and assembled heads for about $800. They look new when you get them back. And contrary to internet lore, you lose nothing down low with ported LS3 heads when you combine them with a mild cam. I wouldn't mill the heads other than a "clean up" mill if using the Tx Speed cam. I would mill the heads if using Spin's cam. I'd use a .040 head gasket either way.
Not all converter brands feel the same for a given stall rpm. I don't like loose converters. The Spin cam will idle in most cases depending on the tuner, at 700-800rpm. If you bump compression it can be lower but I wouldn't plan on it. A 2800 is fine and will be faster off the line than a stock stall but creeping at a light will feel mushy.
This is one of those cases where I would get opinions from guys running that cam and a specific stall and copy those who are happy with their combo. A yank 3200 may feel tighter than a no-name 2800.
I have the Yank PAS 3400 and wish i would have got the PAS3800 but i got it brand new for $550 from a guy switching project directions but yea drives stock for sure woudnt do anything smaller
Why is that? Why would higher DCR affect idle quality? I’ve never heard this…
It's what I've seen over the years. I've heard it explained that, when the DCR gets up there a bit, it's almost like you can hear every cylinder firing.
I was contacted by a forum member that was wanting to use my cam specs. He wanted a smooth idle. I sent him an idle clip and he said it was way too rough. He was going with Spin's cam because he had heard more than a few clips and Spin's was much smoother. Spin's cam has 4 degrees of overlap vs mine having 0. With my rig having a cam with less intake duration, more advance, milled heads, and a thinner head gasket, it's going to have a DCR that's quite a bit higher. I think the Tx Speed cam would have a similar DCR as mine without any milling or thinner head gaskets.
I also ran a blower cam in my previous C6 that had similar specs as my current cam, but with less advance and a 1 degree wider LSA. Much smoother idle and a much lower DCR.
I don't know the lift on Spin's cam. Mine is .620 on both sides. If my lift is higher that could also play into the rough idle thing a bit. That Tx Speed cam had pretty high lift numbers too. That's the way I see it. I may be wrong as hell as I've been wrong as hell before....
Higher compression improves idle quality and manners. It makes a cam act as if it is in a bigger displacement. Higher compression ratios suffer less loss of volumetric efficiency as the pressure ratio increases.
Higher compression improves idle quality and manners. It makes a cam act as if it is in a bigger displacement. Higher compression ratios suffer less loss of volumetric efficiency as the pressure ratio increases.
Would you go for rough sounding, but smooth running? I idled it out of town yesterday in 6th gear. 38 to 40 mph. Even up and down some mild hills. No jerking or bucking.
Would you go for rough sounding, but smooth running? I idled it out of town yesterday in 6th gear. 38 to 40 mph. Even up and down some mild hills. No jerking or bucking.
It's a single data point, not what tends to happen over a dozen installs. I've seen nightmare results with a given cam that ran fine a bunch of other times. You got the tune right. On the other hand I've seen smooth running mammoth cams after a speed density tune.