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I was doing some work on my car over the weekend that required disconnecting most of the front suspension and ran into a problem when trying to connect everything back. It all went smoothly except for the front bolt on the passenger side upper control arm. It came out easy enough and threads back in fairly easily, until after a 1/4" or so when it feels like it binds. To crank it in any further exceeds the torque specs and has me worried I might snap it off or strip it out completely. I've tried running the bolt in with the control arm completely out of the way and it does the same thing. The threads look ok when I pull the bolt all the way out to inpsect, but I can definitely see a color difference between where the bolt has been in and where it hasn't. Any ideas?
Well, "tap" the threads.
Also, try measuring the depth of the threaded hole.
Are you sure you have the correct bolt?
As I recall some suspension mountings use shims, are you missing the shims?
All FWIW.
Good luck, let us know your results
Positive it's the correct bolt and shims still in place. My next step was going to be to try and run a thread cutter down the bolt hole to "clean out" the threads. Maybe just a burr or metal shaving or something? I'm just trying to explore all options given the placement. The last thing I want is to strip this bad boy out.
I had the same issue with a rear anti-sway bar bracket bolt. No problem removing it, but wouldn't thread all the way back in. Weird. I ended up running a tap into it.
I had the same issue with a rear anti-sway bar bracket bolt. No problem removing it, but wouldn't thread all the way back in. Weird. I ended up running a tap into it.
So did that fix it when you did that? Do you recall the size of the tap you used? From what I'm seeing, the bolt is M10x1.5. Does that sound right to you?
So did that fix it when you did that? Do you recall the size of the tap you used? From what I'm seeing, the bolt is M10x1.5. Does that sound right to you?
yes, it cleaned up the thread, but I don’t know that the thread for my sway bar bracket would be the same as your upper control arm mount.
i couldn’t figure out how the factory managed to drive the bolt in with the thread being the way it was
it is very easy to cross thread the upper control arms, you MUST load the suspension so they go in straight. The steel frame cars have threat inserts that can break free and spin. The aluminum framed cars have blocks of threaded aluminum. Either way, start them by hand, and I recommend fully installing them by hand. Also if you remove washers for alignment, relocate them to the front so you still have them. If you run a bolt in too deep, the unthreaded part can extend into the female threads and damage them