Replacing GS pads





My concern is being able to torque the bolts to 135 ft lbs.
while laying on the garage floor.
I am not sure my 74 y/o. body is capable.
Is it possible to just remove the two pins in the center of the
front caliper and the middle pin in the rear caliper to remove
and reinstall new padlets or one piece pads?
Thanks.
My concern is being able to torque the bolts to 135 ft lbs.
while laying on the garage floor.
I am not sure my 74 y/o. body is capable.
Is it possible to just remove the two pins in the center of the
front caliper and the middle pin in the rear caliper to remove
and reinstall new padlets or one piece pads?
Thanks.





the top of the padlet and the caliper casting.
I really was trying to a oid removing all the pins. PITA to remove them,
clean them, grease them and reinstall.
I may try removing the caliper. If I have trouble, I’ll see if anyone in the club can help me out.
Just got the car yesterday so we’ll see how bad the dust is.






The fronts caliper bolts should be no problem anyway, as you can turn the wheels so your torque wrench is easily accessible. Its the rears that are awkward without an actual lift.
What I do now, is use a very compact Milwaukee electric impact gun. for removal and re-installation. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/2555-20
I know I may be slammed for my crude approach, but on its highest setting, it torques to about 130~140ft.lbs ,as per my torque wrench test. ...and its so convenient for a whole slew of other tasks. Anyhow, its been a game changer for me.
Oh yah, when the calipers are off, I use a milk crate to rest it on so as not to stretch the hoses, and put a shop towel on that to preserve caliper paint. This way its easy to manipulate and access the open jaws of the caliper
Good luck








