When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just installed a UPR catch can. It says it fits the corvette but it clearly seems to be for the LS2 GTO since I had to make my own extension bracket. Another thing was the engine cover, I tried my hardest to make my bracket as long as possible but I still had to trim 2-3mm from the corner of the engine cover. Definitely not a direct bolt up but otherwise I'm very satisfied with the quality. I was wondering what setups people have here and if anyone has had the same UPR catch can.
Last edited by C6 Motorsports; May 11, 2023 at 06:28 PM.
Mine looks similar to yours, I too had to make a bracket for it, made by LinesRacing. I was getting knock retard during my tuning process, had some pooling of oil in the intake and felt the oil mist may have been reducing the octane of the gasoline, so I decided to install the catch can.
This is after about 22 pulls on the Dyno, it appears to be doing its job:
Mine looks similar to yours, I too had to make a bracket for it, made by LinesRacing. I was getting knock retard during my tuning process, had some pooling of oil in the intake and felt the oil mist may have been reducing the octane of the gasoline, so I decided to install the catch can.
This is after about 22 pulls on the Dyno, it appears to be doing its job:
Looks just like my extension. Did you ever have the coolant lines under the can be an issue? I zip tied mine together since I didn't like how close they were sitting to the bottom of the can. I just got my car and it's my first corvette so I was pretty surprised how GM just didn't put any sort of PCV valve. There's some attempt on the driver side valve cover but these LS engine just seem to drink those crankcase vapors so IMO a catch can is a must on these. My intake is coming in next week so I'm sure I'll have a lot of cleaning to do once I open it up for the first time.
With this set up, your only catching the dirty side of the PCV system,and will still have oil in the intake manifold from the clean side of the PCV system.
On the dirty side, you have a baffle in the valley pan cover, then to the exit port and into the intake port behind the TB.
On the clean side, you have a baffle in the valve cover, and that is ported in front of the TB.
And the reason that is called the clean side, its higher in the engine, and vapor is only sent through that port during WOT. Anything less than WOT, and the vapor is drawn in from the dirty side isntead.
On a dual can set up,both sides are catch canned instead.
With this set up, your only catching the dirty side of the PCV system,and will still have oil in the intake manifold from the clean side of the PCV system.
On the dirty side, you have a baffle in the valley pan cover, then to the exit port and into the intake port behind the TB.
On the clean side, you have a baffle in the valve cover, and that is ported in front of the TB.
And the reason that is called the clean side, its higher in the engine, and vapor is only sent through that port during WOT. Anything less than WOT, and the vapor is drawn in from the dirty side isntead.
On a dual can set up,both sides are catch canned instead.
I was worried about those valve cover hoses. The diagram above shows capping them off and just running the catch can from the valley cover?
I was worried about those valve cover hoses. The diagram above shows capping them off and just running the catch can from the valley cover?
Yes, they are capped off in my catch can setup .. But there needs to be a way for fresh air to enter the crankcase in order to replace the 'dirty air' that is sucked out of the crankcase .. In my setup, this fresh air enters the engine by way of the fresh air breather you see on the valve cover.
This air breather is also popped-off when filling the engine with new oil during oil changes (my engine is a wet sump type).
Yes, they are capped off in my catch can setup .. But there needs to be a way for fresh air to enter the crankcase in order to replace the 'dirty air' that is sucked out of the crankcase .. In my setup, this fresh air enters the engine by way of the fresh air breather you see on the valve cover.
Right I see, looks like that would be the simplest setup. I will look for an oil cap breather like yours and cap the two ports on the valve covers, thanks
I was trying to make sense of all the hoses on my 2011 GS LS3 with dry sump so I made this diagram. I added an Elite E2 catch can- shown in the diagram but mounted it next to the oil tank. The red hose from the Oil can "dry sump oil tank" must collect the fumes from the oil tank and add them to the crankcase blowby/ fumes via the valve covers. If you experts see any errors in this diagram let me know and I will revise it.
I was trying to make sense of all the hoses on my 2011 GS LS3 with dry sump so I made this diagram. I added an Elite E2 catch can- shown in the diagram but mounted it next to the oil tank. The red hose from the Oil can "dry sump oil tank" must collect the fumes from the oil tank and add them to the crankcase blowby/ fumes via the valve covers. If you experts see any errors in this diagram let me know and I will revise it.
I was trying to make sense of all the hoses on my 2011 GS LS3 with dry sump so I made this diagram. I added an Elite E2 catch can- shown in the diagram but mounted it next to the oil tank. The red hose from the Oil can "dry sump oil tank" must collect the fumes from the oil tank and add them to the crankcase blowby/ fumes via the valve covers. If you experts see any errors in this diagram let me know and I will revise it.
Nice (and right) graphic artefact.
Seems to me that during stout to WOT pulls the arrow is reversed on the blue line.
I went with a Elite Engineering setup. Bolted up fine with the supplied bracket. Weems like it could be a little bit of a struggle to remove the bottom half to drain the oil. Ill cross that bridge here pretty soon when I check the oil level inside it out
I went with a Elite Engineering setup. Bolted up fine with the supplied bracket. Weems like it could be a little bit of a struggle to remove the bottom half to drain the oil. Ill cross that bridge here pretty soon when I check the oil level inside it out
You'll probably have to heighten and move it forward. Like i've done, see pic upper, using some bend sheet metal plate (flash galvanized and painted it).
https://amzn.eu/d/0uKPr9k
Last edited by Blackship; May 15, 2023 at 01:50 AM.
Lots of ways to do a catch can. Here's a Mighty Mouse Gen 5+ Road Race Can on my Z06. It mounts to the oil tank.
The kit comes with everything needed for a nice sanitary installation.
The job took maybe 30 min
Just one of many ways to set up a catch can. The main thing is to make sure your PVC plumbing is correct. That would be stock, unless you have a very good reason to change it and know what you're doing.
At WOT/boost conditions, the intake manifold no longer has a vacuum, so will not have a source that is drawing a vacuum to pull the vapors out of the motor during that time.
Hence port in front of the TB is used to create the vacuum for WOT/Booster conditions on the clean side of the system, to keep the motor oil cleaner longer instead.
If the intent is not to have a vacuum to draw the vapors out of the motor to keep the motor oil cleaner at all times, then could just discharge what pressure is coming out of the block to the atmosphere instead (read screw the EPA requirements for a PCV system in the first place).
And to put out, with a super charger, at WOT/boost conditions due to blow by past the pistons,this is the time that you really need to be venting/drawing the excess pressure out of the block. So if you want to run the single can set up that way, then just stick an in line filter on the valve cover port, and let it vent to out side of the motor to give a path for the piston blow-by block pressure to escape.
Lots of ways to do a catch can. Here's a Mighty Mouse Gen 5+ Road Race Can on my Z06. It mounts to the oil tank.
The kit comes with everything needed for a nice sanitary installation.
The job took maybe 30 min
Just one of many ways to set up a catch can. The main thing is to make sure your PVC plumbing is correct. That would be stock, unless you have a very good reason to change it and know what you're doing.
Curious where the hose coming out of the top of the can goes? I assume the other 2 go to the intake (from can outlet) and the valley cover ( to can inlet) Also, can you drain your can without removing it from the mount?
Catch Cans
