A month ago it wouldn’t start parked outside after the gym-pushed it, hopped in and jump started it. Next day same thing, so it’s been in my garage since.

Took the starter in and had it tested, wiring looks good too. It’s had a check engine light but no codes.

Unplugged a bunch of stuff like fuses and the BCM, plugged it all back in and now it reads P0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit) and P0340 (Intake Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit).

New Red Optima battery that I had load tested and it’s been on a maintainer- sitting at 12.4v sitting off.

Replaced Fuel Pump and crank relays.

Any advice?

 

While cranking see if the Tach moves..if not may be a bad crank sensor or wiring issue.

 

Tach does not move. Is it odd that I got both codes at the same time? Crankshaft and Intake Camshaft.

 

So right now it is a “crank no start” I’m assuming ???…I see you posted something similar from last month…both cam and crank sensors are both 3 wire Hall Effect sensors and are powered by 5 volts...I believe that the power for both sensors is shared so it may be a wiring issue…don't know for sure without testing but this may be important information for yourself, your mechanic or dealership.

 

I had someone lay down by the starter when I tried to start it and the starter is not making any noise-no click or anything.

I took in the battery, alternator and starter- all passed the tests at the auto parts store.

I have a hard time believing the intake camshaft and crankshaft position sensor circuits went out at the same time. Makes me think some funky wiring issue is making those codes come up.

Also, all wiring looks fine for the starter.

I’m pretty handy but wiring is not my strongest so I’m not sure where to go from here. I appreciate your quick replies!

 

There are some inputs that have to be present for the starter to receive power to start…if you have a 12 volt test light there is a quick check you can do at the crank relay…if you have a test light and think you might be able to check for power at terminal 30 and ground at 86 that you can check…unfortunately this may be a wiring issue and if you think this may be beyond your abilities it may be best to take the car to an auto electric shop.

 

I did buy a test light if you’d be able to explain the steps needed, I would appreciate it. Only way I can get it to a shop is if I can push it and jump it but I’m hesitant since it’s in my garage up a slope lol. Not keen on towing it since it’s not a huge hurry.

 

OK, first thing is don't start a duplicate thread with the same issue !!....Optima Red Top (AGM) is NOT the correct battery for your car...the ECM is programmed to charge a Lead Acid battery and not an AGM,,,you said your battery is sitting at 12.4 volts and is that reading from a voltmeter taken AT the battery or DIC ??...if battery is 12.66 volts or higher you can proceed with the following testing...take your test light and connect it to a good ground like a clean door to frame bolt because this test will be done at the BCM...VERIFY test light will light when probing a fuse at the BCM with power on it at all times...now find ECM FUSE 12 at the BCM and remove it and make sure it is NOT blown...if good place the tip of the test light on either metal "nub" on the fuse while attempting to start the car...does it light ??...if it does NOT post your result...if it DOES illuminate now remove CRANK RELAY 43 in under hood fuse box...also check FUSE 30 and make sure it is not blown while you are in there....here we can do a quick check of the CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH...connect the test light to battery POSITIVE...now probe PIN 86 which is the terminal closest to the fender and windshield (picture below)...now try to start the car...does the test light illuminate ??...post your result !!...if test light does not illuminate at the ECM fuse 12 no need to check crank relay...I know you are probably trying to save money here but in the long run best to take it to a shop since you don't have a test light and I don't even know if you own a DVOM...the Corvette is not the only car with push button start...any GM or another other manufacturer with one basically works the same...if a shop can't diagnose this they should probably be in another business like selling hot dogs !!.... I'd get rid of your crappy Red Top and get a good AC Delco Professional Lead Acid battery with a high RC (Reserve Capacity) and also get rid of those crappy OE battery terminal connectors since you said you can't tighten it correctly.