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My '08 base model seemed to be running well, but the check engine light came on. I went to AutoZone for a scan and they found codes that indicated my maf sensor was the problem.
I went home, removed and spray cleaned the sensor, and the light went out.
1400 miles later the light came on again and I repeated the cleaning which, again, shut off the light. I also ordered a new oem part and then installed it. Light off and the car seems to run ok.
So, the question is, do I need to do erase the stored codes, reset the computer, etc.??
Most google sites say I do, but some say to just drive it and the computer will adjust to the new sensor.
What to do?
What was the initial trouble code stored ??…trouble codes are NOT part numbers (in your case a suspected bad MAF Sensor)…I doubt the MAF was dirty enough to set another code after 1400 miles and turn the MIL on…good you went with an OEM sensor…without a scan tool the MIL will extinguish after 3 consecutive trips that the ECM checks the MAF and it passed…it will be removed as a “history” code after 40 warm up cycles as long as everything is good.
I don't remember the code #'s, but they (2) translated to lean cylinders bank 1 & 2. AZ's computer print out said that the most probable problem associated with those codes was the maf sensor, which it appears it was.
I wouldn't think that the sensor would get dirty again after just 1400 miles either. The air filter snorkel is clean inside. But, spraying the sensor again did put out the ck eng light immediately, just like before, and it did stay off for aprox. 400 miles before I put in the new one.
I had just installed a new ACDelco air filter.
Could it be defective, restricting air flow, etc.?
It was most likely a P0171/0174 banks 1 and 2 lean…without a scan tool it would be hard for you to quickly diagnosis this…if the code set at idle it could be a vacuum leak or if it set at cruise it could either be fuel delivery (low fuel pressure or a MAF issue (under reporting MAF sensor)…MAF should read approximately the liter displacement of the engine at idle…6.2 grams/second on a scan tool…if the check engine light is still off nothing to worry about for now…is that the case right now ??…why are you worrying about a bad air filter ??
You should also check for any possible air leaks in the connection between the location of the MAF sensor & the throttle body intake. You may have developed an air leak if you have previously removed/replaced the air tube connections in the air intake track.
I'm just wondering about the new ACDelco air filter because the check engine light came on at the next start up after I installed it.
The only 2 things I did was disconnect/connect the maf sensor and install the new air filter.
Coincidence that the maf sensor went bad at this specific time??
Anyway, it seems to be running well now, and it appears that I do not need to do anything/reset computer, etc. for the new maf sensor to work correctly.
Thanks for the replies.
It was most likely a P0171/0174 banks 1 and 2 lean…without a scan tool it would be hard for you to quickly diagnosis this…if the code set at idle it could be a vacuum leak or if it set at cruise it could either be fuel delivery (low fuel pressure or a MAF issue (under reporting MAF sensor)…MAF should read approximately the liter displacement of the engine at idle…6.2 grams/second on a scan tool…if the check engine light is still off nothing to worry about for now…is that the case right now ??…why are you worrying about a bad air filter ??
I believe it was P0171/0174 banks 1 and 2 lean codes. The cel did come on while driving, not at idle.
Sayfoo, I had something very similar happen to my 2006 Z06. Car had a K&N air filter in it when I got it. I replaced it with a new OEM air filter and started getting P0171 and P0174 codes. To make a long story short, I figured out that the OEM filter was more restrictive than the K&N filter, and this increased the vacuum level in the intake manifold. Because of poor sealing between the intake manifold and cylinder heads, the increased vacuum resulted in more air leaking in around the base of the intake manifold. I tightened up the intake manifold bolts and the codes went away, and the engine runs much better. Still using the OEM filter. For the long term, I am thinking about finding an aluminum intake manifold that has OEM performance characteristics but will have nice, flat mounting surfaces and not crush when tightening the mounting bolts. FI Tech has one that I am investigating, and am open to others.