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I see GM put out a TSB that they do not recommend engine oil, crankcase flushes on 2011 and older designs due to seals and bearings potentially being damaged.
Does anyone have experience with this and what are your thoughts?
personally, the $50 flush is a wash if it helps, but the potential damages would be a huge loss.
dealership stated the supplier will back it up is any damage occurs and will put a customer on a higher tier if done before 50k miles and every 10k after that…. Very skeptical
I see GM put out a TSB that they do not recommend engine oil, crankcase flushes on 2011 and older designs due to seals and bearings potentially being damaged.
Does anyone have experience with this and what are your thoughts?
personally, the $50 flush is a wash if it helps, but the potential damages would be a huge loss.
dealership stated the supplier will back it up is any damage occurs and will put a customer on a higher tier if done before 50k miles and every 10k after that…. Very skeptical
Thanks,
Ken
If you've changed your oil at least on a semi regular basis and used a decent synthetic oil, you shouldn't need any kind of a flush. I can't remember the last time I opened an engine and found any kind of buildup. And that includes more than a few diesel engines too.
I see GM put out a TSB that they do not recommend engine oil, crankcase flushes on 2011 and older designs due to seals and bearings potentially being damaged.
Does anyone have experience with this and what are your thoughts?
personally, the $50 flush is a wash if it helps, but the potential damages would be a huge loss.
dealership stated the supplier will back it up is any damage occurs and will put a customer on a higher tier if done before 50k miles and every 10k after that…. Very skeptical
Thanks,
Ken
Don't.
The oil itself is a cleaner; that's one of its jobs.
At 140K the internals of my LS2 looked essentially brand new. There was no trace of sludge anywhere.
I wouldn’t use one of the engine flush products but if you have some lifter noise it wouldn’t hurt to use a detergent such as Marvel Mystery Oil or Rislone to clean the lifters. Sometimes dirt and debri can get stuck in the oiling holes and cause a lifter to not pump up properly. But unless you have some lifter noise I wouldn’t mess with an engine flush product.
I can tell you first hand it's a really bad idea. I've done it and picked up a rod knock. I did abuse the engine with lack of maintenence, but flushing out all the garbage that was holding the motor together was it's death.
on the flip side my Buick Century station wagon had 318k miles on it when I sold it and I never did a motor flush. Just changed the conventional motor oil every 3k miles like click work.
I do currently use Sea Foam in my 383, LS2, LS3, and LT2.
It’s really sad that a lot of dealers have resorted to these tactics to pad profits! They all seem to be pushing fluid changes sooner than factory recommendations ( except free oil changes). Fuel system and engine flushes are a complete waste of $$.
I wouldn’t use one of the engine flush products but if you have some lifter noise it wouldn’t hurt to use a detergent such as Marvel Mystery Oil or Rislone to clean the lifters. Sometimes dirt and debri can get stuck in the oiling holes and cause a lifter to not pump up properly. But unless you have some lifter noise I wouldn’t mess with an engine flush product.
This.
I did it once to see if it would quite a noisy lifter. The product I used at that time recommended to add to existing oil, drive 100 miles and do a oil change. It worked!! If your motor does not have problems I do not think jus idling 10 minutes with flush added will do much.
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