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I just completed this project and used the Powerbond balancer PB117N from Amazon. I went with the GM torque-to-yield bolt 12557840, and have had no problems. I did change the crank seal GM 296-02, tensioners, pulleys and both serpentine belts (mine is a 2006). I saw no reason to change the timing cover gasket, not leaking etc. I was working alone and did the "drop the cradle" method, worked out very well. You will definitely need an LS flywheel locking tool if yours is an automatic. The balancer was unlike others I had worked on so I had to buy a balancer puller tool (50 bucks) and a balancer install tool (20 bucks).
I'd never install an LS damper without keying the crank. Overkill much of the time, but easy insurance. I've seen several literally fall off at the track
I went with a Summit Racing balancer on mine. It has good reviews and was recommended by a local Vette specialist mechanic in my area. BTW, he pinned the crank. We did not replace the bolt with a GM brand also.
I just posted this in another thread. I can't recommend that Powerbond/Dayco PB1117N. Mine started wobbling just like the OEM part after less than 10k miles. Looks like the rubber is walking out the front. Learn from my mistake and do it right once. If you go Powerbond/Dayco, go with the PB1117SS race performance balancer or ATI. It's more expensive but still less than the labor if you have to get in there again in a few thousand miles.
You want to go with the PB1117SS balancer and the ARP bolt. The part number for the balancer you have listed is just as good as the OEM balancer. ARP for insurance and in case you want to do a cam swap or something later, you can reuse it.