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Either bad oil pressure sensor, or sensor wire is grounding out somewhere if holding at a constant high pressure (normal the lock up around 80PSI, but not out the the question to lock up at higher reading as they go bad.
So on that note, disconnect the oil pressure sensor connector to see if you lose all pressure reading or not, and if yes, then time to change the sensor. If connector disconnected and showing any reading, then wire is grounded out somewhere instead.
And for the love of Christ, do not wack a hole in the cowling to get to it. You can get to it under the crowing and borrow a compact mirror from the wife, to see what you are doing in the blind area as your changing it out.
Had that happen and had to replace the sender. As Dano said, it can be done with the intake in place and also please do not cut a hole. You need a small mirror on an extendable arm, which you can buy at parts stores, a couple of socket arm u-joints, preferably small hands, and a lot of patience.
So for sure the connector is bad...came apart and one of the wires is jacked...ordered a new pigtail. Still not sure how you can do it with the intake in but I've got the time. Know I now why they make relocation kits.
Over the years, I replaced oil sending units on a 1999 and 2003 C5. I assume the same applies to a C6. Each time I removed the plastic intake manifold to gain access to the oil sending unit.
Removing the plastic intake on a C5 was a lot easier than one would imagine, very uneventful. There is a stainless steel braided line that I kept attached. I laid a thick blanket on the driver side, then carefully flipped over the intake with that line attached, placing it out of the way of the work area. It was also an opportunity to clean areas that are otherwise inaccessible. As I recall, I had the job done in under 2 hours which included my cleaning.
The soft rubber intake gaskets on those two lower mileaged C5s (under 40,000) happen to be in great reusable condition. On a high mileage Corvette, consider replacing the gaskets, especially if they are no longer soft and pliable, not springing back to their natural shape. If that is your case, it is time to replace them anyway for preventative maintenance.
I point here is......Don't be afraid to change the oil sending unit that way if GM says that is the official process. On the C5, it is so much easier than imagined. Surely DON'T hack up your Corvette!
The braided stainless steel line I mentiond, you can see it well in this picture.
Last edited by Ron Dittmer; Apr 6, 2024 at 11:56 PM.
So I'll be pulling the intake to change the sensor. Other then intake gaskets what else should I look at changing while in there. I called LG about a cam change and what not but haven't had a call back.
they are just a few miles from my house.
They make a remote senor extension, its kinda pricey so i fashioned my own i would really recommend while in there. Mine was a nightmare i don't know how anyone got to it with a "mirror/swivel socket" zero chance on mine without removing the intake so i did cut a hole. Sealed it back up real nice With my DIY extender i added a T and a under hood digital verification (also a shut off valve in case of emergency leaks) I made a post about it ill try and find the link.
Think the premade one is 120$ i made mine with all the extras for under 50. I had low oil pressure issue leading to a full engine rebuild so it might be overkill but i plan to ride this car into the grave (mine or hers)
I looked into those but got the job done yesterday. Actually not bad at all except I broke the intake pressure sensor going back together with this is but fixed that quick. Only problem is I woke up to a dead battery. Now I have had zero issues but haven't driven it in two weeks (most before was a week) and had it on and off 3 tines checking for leaks and testing the new sensor) I did leave a bluetooth Elm connected overnight. My question is could that Elm have drawn the battery down or could the new pigtail for the oil pressure sensor be wired wrong (everything worked on oil pressure when started) the new connector had 1 black and two red wires....black to black and the two red one to each of the other wires.
I would think def the ELM, I've checked 100 times for a slow draw but never found one, my car doesn't last more than a few weeks without needing a trickle. That plus the doors interior lights relays ect ect alot of electronics going on while you were working.
Battery charged quicker than I thought so think it's good and yep leaning to having the elm in for 14 hrs. I have had my cig lighter bluetooth for phone plugged in before without an issue so figured the elm drew more as well.
Over the years, I replaced oil sending units on a 1999 and 2003 C5. I assume the same applies to a C6. Each time I removed the plastic intake manifold to gain access to the oil sending unit.
Removing the plastic intake on a C5 was a lot easier than one would imagine, very uneventful. There is a stainless steel braided line that I kept attached. I laid a thick blanket on the driver side, then carefully flipped over the intake with that line attached, placing it out of the way of the work area. It was also an opportunity to clean areas that are otherwise inaccessible. As I recall, I had the job done in under 2 hours which included my cleaning.
The soft rubber intake gaskets on those two lower mileaged C5s (under 40,000) happen to be in great reusable condition. On a high mileage Corvette, consider replacing the gaskets, especially if they are no longer soft and pliable, not springing back to their natural shape. If that is your case, it is time to replace them anyway for preventative maintenance.
I point here is......Don't be afraid to change the oil sending unit that way if GM says that is the official process. On the C5, it is so much easier than imagined. Surely DON'T hack up your Corvette!
The braided stainless steel line I mentiond, you can see it well in this picture.
Over the years, I replaced oil sending units on a 1999 and 2003 C5. I assume the same applies to a C6. Each time I removed the plastic intake manifold to gain access to the oil sending unit.
Removing the plastic intake on a C5 was a lot easier than one would imagine, very uneventful. There is a stainless steel braided line that I kept attached. I laid a thick blanket on the driver side, then carefully flipped over the intake with that line attached, placing it out of the way of the work area. It was also an opportunity to clean areas that are otherwise inaccessible. As I recall, I had the job done in under 2 hours which included my cleaning.
The soft rubber intake gaskets on those two lower mileaged C5s (under 40,000) happen to be in great reusable condition. On a high mileage Corvette, consider replacing the gaskets, especially if they are no longer soft and pliable, not springing back to their natural shape. If that is your case, it is time to replace them anyway for preventative maintenance.
I point here is......Don't be afraid to change the oil sending unit that way if GM says that is the official process. On the C5, it is so much easier than imagined. Surely DON'T hack up your Corvette!
The braided stainless steel line I mentiond, you can see it well in this picture.
I think that's what he was talking about. Now on the c6 it is probably close to the same. I can say I have very small hands and if it wasn't for wiring harnes and the back fuel rail bracket you wouldn't have to take off anything (with the right socket for the sensor)
Ok so did a short drive and although not codes the oil pressure isn't moving from 24 both on the gauge and the dic.
Im unfamiliar with a c5 if that is what we are talking about here.. but I would keep an eye on that pressure tho. 24 is getting real close to concern. probably perfectly normal if you are getting up there on the miles. This is speaking from a LS3 perspective so grain of salt.
I looked into those but got the job done yesterday. Actually not bad at all except I broke the intake pressure sensor going back together with this is but fixed that quick. Only problem is I woke up to a dead battery. Now I have had zero issues but haven't driven it in two weeks (most before was a week) and had it on and off 3 tines checking for leaks and testing the new sensor) I did leave a bluetooth Elm connected overnight. My question is could that Elm have drawn the battery down or could the new pigtail for the oil pressure sensor be wired wrong (everything worked on oil pressure when started) the new connector had 1 black and two red wires....black to black and the two red one to each of the other wires.
If your oil pressure is stuck at 24 psi and you replaced the pigtail I’d check if it is correctly wired !!…black is a reference ground which is an ECM ground and the gray wire is a 5 volt reference…the tan/white is the signal wire …what I do to check is jumper the 5 volt reference to the signal wire and you should see 5 volts on the oil pressure voltage Data PID on the scan tool.
Could it be this plug I got from amazon is pinned wrong? The black wire is on the single pin at the bottom (below the catch)
3 is black on the connector.
Could it be this plug I got from amazon is pinned wrong? The black wire is on the single pin at the bottom (below the catch)
3 is black on the connector.
Don’t worry about the wire color on your new pigtail…just compare the connector pigtail orientation to the sensor
