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I wanted to adjust the ride height. The original bolts were rusted and stuck. I finally got them out. I put VMS lowering bolts in. To try and make it so I could adjust the height in the future, I put anti-seize on the bolts to keep them from rusting. I adjust the height and drive around some. Today I was going to adjust it some trying to get it where I want. It seems like the bolt moved while driving. Would the anti-seize make it slick enough that the bolt could move while driving? I thought the tension from the spring would hold it in place. The bolt has a socket joint at the flat end, so I could see how the bolt would spin easier than the stock bolt. I didn't think it would spin on it's own.
Have other experienced this? What did you do? Did you put a jam nut on the bolt before putting it in the car and spin that up to holt it in place?
I expect it's just the suspension re-settling, but It's possible it moved. One of the good things about the OEM adjusters deforming, they don't rotate once they conform to the LCA.
I drop of paint would at least let you verify it's location. I use Dykem marks
I have heard GM doesn't make them anymore and the prices are now over $30 a piece from the 1 place that says they have them. Agreed I may be taking them out soon, but I kept my old ones. Not sure if I could really reuse them, but who knows.
My thought right now is to put a Ny-Lock nut on the bolt that I can move up to the bottom of the spring and hold the bolt from turning.
Just wondering of anyone else had seen this happen or not.
Maybe someone with more experience can help me with this.
After running a car a little, the adjustment bolts spun in the spring and the car is riding at it's lowest point. I understand why this happens. The bolt has a ball joint so that the end will set flat on the control arm. The stock ones are solid and have a rubber end. The rubber end keeps the stocks ones from spinning. Since I put anti-seize on mine, they spin very easily while the car is bouncing around. I put a nut on the adjustment bolt and locked that into the spring. I felt like that would hold it in place, but it didn't.
What do people do to lock these in place and keep the ride height from changing? I could put more washers or anything that would space the gap out to hold it up. This doesn't seem like a good solution to me.
I know the real solution is switching to coilovers, but that will cost over $1,500 pretty easily and I'm not really that good a driver. Maybe one day I will get to that point, but seems like overkill for now.
I have never heard that term before. What does that mean?
You Tube to the rescue! That won't really work as I need to adjust the bolt to adjust the ride height. Drilling through the bolt would be a 1 time shot. I need to lock the bolt into place and be able to unlock it and adjust it.
no, you can only lock it in half turn increments, but drilling a hole doesn't lock it in only one position. Regardless if they are turning as easily as you suggest, I bet safety wire would fail. Maybe a lock nut under or over the spring, depending on there the extra thread it.
Are you 100% sure they spun? I know my car settles about 1/2-5/8 of an inch from the time I first set it on the ground vs after driving it around. I would put a mark on the top of the adjustment bolts and bottom them all way up (lowest setting) and then count your turns with the line on the top to a set number like say 5 turns down on all 4 corners. Drive the car around some and then after a few days or so jack the car back up and re count your turns. That will tell you if the adjusters are spinning themselves or if its just the suspension settling after being de compressed
@Rebob0510 I had that moment of "am I crazy or is it lower?" It definitely spun and lowered.
I put a nyloc nut under the spring. I'm going to try adding a split washer and see if that stops it from spinning.
I raised it up some because you can do that without taking the suspension apart. When I took it out there was all sorts of squeaking and groaning going on. I thought I was back in the 1980 I had.
On my '07 I replaced the stock broken off and frozen factory levelers with the lowered bolts, they moved and wouldn't stay, so, I put regular nuts on first then the leveler through the insert, set and snug that lower nut and worked well.
That sounds like what I did. However I did put anti-seize on the treads to prevent rust. My guess is this what allows them to still move. I think a lock washer may help hold it in place. However, I found a member here on the forum selling a coilover setup at a reasonable price. I made the deal and will be switching.