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I think my fuel pump has gone out and will probably need to be replaced, I know the c6 has 2 gas tanks one of those tanks has the fuel pump in it. My question is do I need to replace only the fuel pump in the one tank or is there anything else in the other tank that has to be replaced? I figure I may as well do it while I'm in there. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
You shouldn’t “think” your fuel pump needs to be replaced !!…why do you think that ??…can be a lot of trouble for you if it’s not faulty.
Ok let me put it to you this way I have checked the fuse and relay they both tested good, I have power and ground at the pig tail where the fuel pump connects to the wiring harness from the fuse box. When I turn the switch on I don't hear the fuel pump prime the car turns over but want start. I have no fuel pressure at the schrader valve. What else would it be??
Some people have had wiring issues in the fuse box. you might want to look into that first
you just have to pull the driver side tank to change the pump
How did you check for power and ground at the harness ??…if you used a DVOM and you have 12 volts that doesn’t tell me anything !!…how did you check the ground ??…you have to “load” the power and ground and see if they can do the “work” or carry the current….I use different size headlight bulbs of different amperage’s (watts) to check if the wires are able to handle that current…the fuel pump draws around 8 amps so that is the size bulb I use…if the bulb burns bright I know it can carry the load….to check for power did you jumper terminals 87 and 30 at the relay (the load side) ??
A test light ??…NO !!…how did you check ground ??…how about applying battery voltage and ground directly from the battery to the fuel pump…if the fuel pump runs the pump is good…most likely the wiring then.
I think my fuel pump has gone out and will probably need to be replaced, I know the c6 has 2 gas tanks one of those tanks has the fuel pump in it. My question is do I need to replace only the fuel pump in the one tank or is there anything else in the other tank that has to be replaced? I figure I may as well do it while I'm in there. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Regards
Genovaneli
Fuel system repair strategy has changed a bit now that the inter-tank plumbing pieces are hard/impossible to find new. Back when they were available I'd suggest changing all the internal fittings and hoses as a matter of course. Now you need to be more judicious when taking the tanks apart, especially since the fittings can get stuck or break.
The electric fuel pump is in the left tank. You don't have to do anything to the right tank. However, the most common failure of the fuel system are the level senders, particularly the right tank level sender. For that reason it's a good idea to change both level senders. Just take care disconnecting the crossover hose so as not to break the internal fittings that you can't buy anymore.
When changing level senders, make sure to get the right ones for your model year or your gauge will read backwards and eventually throw an error. Test the senders before you install the assembled tanks back in the car by reading the level senders' resistance with the tanks right side up, and again with them upside-down.
So I took my fuse box apart again and did some visual inspection and probing around put it all back together hit the starter button and she fired right up. I just don't get it I'm beginning to think I have a bad connection in the fuse box somewhere. Any thoughts?
Yes sir you are correct that's a lot of labor to get to it. That's why I came here looking for help before I jumped into it. Thanks for the help and advice.
Start with removing fuel pump relay, and jump the fuse box relay with spade connector on both sides of the wire.
This (spade widths) will also help to weed out problems with U connector in upper fuse box for relay burnt/spreed open, where you may have to open up upper fuse box to correct.
If no pressure at the rail with jumper in play, then pull upper fuse box, and check lower block female connector to see if it bent open, burnt or pushed down in block so upper male connector does not get a good connection to it.
If still no rail pressure, leave jumper in place, start with probing wire out of fuse box to back of car for fuel pump up under the hood, then go to back of car at fuel pump location on driver side, and make sure you have power on that connector for the fuel pump as well, with problem the fuel pump not working in the end/tank needs to be pulled to replace it.
Only needed if someone tried to use a boost a pump through the factory wiring from the fuse box to back of car, that will cause the too small of gauge wiring to burn up.
So again, jump relay out at fuse box, and start checking to make sure you have power all the way back at the rear fuel pump connector by the gas tank.