Starter Recommendations in 2024
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 851
Likes: 390
Starter Recommendations in 2024
Car left me stranded again today. 2011 manual GS. Out of nowhere, the starter would only click once and then nothing at all. It was definitely the starter clicking and not a relay.
I was able to bang on the starter while my wife hit the starter button and eventually it started up. Got it home and it started 5 times in a row without any hesitation.
Starter was replaced with an AC Delco OEM starter wrapped in heat shielding almost 3 years ago to the day. I was told to go OEM by a very reputable shop, but 3 years seems pretty bad for a starter.
I don't want to replace with OEM again because of the price and the warranty is only one year.
I'm inclined to do an AutoZone Duralast Gold Starter DLG9717S with a lifetime warranty and just replace it when it happens again for the cost of my own labor.
I also found a recommendation for the Powermaster 9509 with an aftermarket pigtail for a plug and play replacement.
Anything better? More reliable?
I suspect the heat of the Track cross I did a few weeks ago damaged the starter in some way with the heat. What are better options than heat wrap to protect the starter? I have stock exhaust manifolds so I didn't expect this to happen so soon.
I was able to bang on the starter while my wife hit the starter button and eventually it started up. Got it home and it started 5 times in a row without any hesitation.
Starter was replaced with an AC Delco OEM starter wrapped in heat shielding almost 3 years ago to the day. I was told to go OEM by a very reputable shop, but 3 years seems pretty bad for a starter.
I don't want to replace with OEM again because of the price and the warranty is only one year.
I'm inclined to do an AutoZone Duralast Gold Starter DLG9717S with a lifetime warranty and just replace it when it happens again for the cost of my own labor.
I also found a recommendation for the Powermaster 9509 with an aftermarket pigtail for a plug and play replacement.
Anything better? More reliable?
I suspect the heat of the Track cross I did a few weeks ago damaged the starter in some way with the heat. What are better options than heat wrap to protect the starter? I have stock exhaust manifolds so I didn't expect this to happen so soon.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,629
And prefer heat shield, over wrap, since shield will still allow cooler air to get to the solenoid, not just bake it like a potato in wrap instead.
Here you go, and only take slight mod'g to get it to work.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alumi...u=91017481-POL
If you want plug and play,
https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L800010000.html
Last edited by Dano523; Jun 29, 2024 at 12:05 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 851
Likes: 390
https://www.amazon.com/Solenoid-Comp.../dp/B09ZXBFF2B
And prefer heat shield, over wrap, since shield will still allow cooler air to get to the solenoid, not just bake it like a potato in wrap instead.
Here you go, and only take slight mod'g to get it to work.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alumi...u=91017481-POL
If you want plug and play,
https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L800010000.html
And prefer heat shield, over wrap, since shield will still allow cooler air to get to the solenoid, not just bake it like a potato in wrap instead.
Here you go, and only take slight mod'g to get it to work.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alumi...u=91017481-POL
If you want plug and play,
https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L800010000.html
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,629
Which will just take a 6 point female E torque bit socket to remove the bolts to remove the solenoid, and put them put them back in.
So like a few bucks at any auto parts store for e toque 1/4 drive socket, with 1/4" drive extension, and maybe a 1/4 to 3/8" adapter of you don't have one already for your 3/8" drive set.
When you put the e torque bolts back in, Blue loctite, and don't go buck wild over tighening them (put center of socket wrench in the center of palm, and should back off way down on the amount that you can torque them back up, which should only be about 10 ftlbs.
Full set for only $10 if you want to have a complete set for most of the E torque head bolts you may come across,
And no, not 12 point bolt heads like other bolts you may come across.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 851
Likes: 390
Welp, I'm calling the shop who did the original replacement when they open tomorrow to get their feedback. I tried to remove the starter today and it was such a tight fit that I couldn't get it out. With how hot it is outside and how annoyed I was, I'm OK with giving the shop a visit and paying them 1.5 hours of labor like last time to replace it. I don't see how there's room to get it out of a dry sump grand sport without loosening the exhaust manifold and that was a step I didn't want to get into. I put it all back together and pulled the car back into the garage. Of course it started up fine every time today. Makes me think I should let it ride but then I don't want to get stuck somewhere again.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 851
Likes: 390
Shop said they'd do the solenoid replacement and he sounded surprised the OEM unit they replaced already failed.
Ordered the solenoid but none of them are Prime eligible, so I'm hoping the one Dano linked gets here by Saturday so I can drop the car off on Sunday. Shop is a little over an hour from me but I'm going to have them look over some other things while it's there so I can decide on a direction for the car.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,885
Likes: 107
From: God's Country, ID
Starter solenoid failure was just inevitable on my turbo car.
I uses to carry a long wooden dowel and just slip it between the turbo exaust manifold and wiggle the wires...would always make contact and start.
Auto electric shop nearby would replace the solenoid in an hours time for like $24. Just long enough to go get lunch.
it was about a 6hr job simply because I had to drop a turbo on the right side including turbo oil/coolant lines.
Fun times.
I uses to carry a long wooden dowel and just slip it between the turbo exaust manifold and wiggle the wires...would always make contact and start.
Auto electric shop nearby would replace the solenoid in an hours time for like $24. Just long enough to go get lunch.
it was about a 6hr job simply because I had to drop a turbo on the right side including turbo oil/coolant lines.
Fun times.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Rockledge FL
Welp, I'm calling the shop who did the original replacement when they open tomorrow to get their feedback. I tried to remove the starter today and it was such a tight fit that I couldn't get it out. With how hot it is outside and how annoyed I was, I'm OK with giving the shop a visit and paying them 1.5 hours of labor like last time to replace it. I don't see how there's room to get it out of a dry sump grand sport without loosening the exhaust manifold and that was a step I didn't want to get into. I put it all back together and pulled the car back into the garage. Of course it started up fine every time today. Makes me think I should let it ride but then I don't want to get stuck somewhere again.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 851
Likes: 390
Thank you sir. I'm going to try a replacement solenoid first and if it happens again I'll step up to the Powermaster starter.
I'm wondering if the folks who were able to get the starter out without removing the manifolds were all Z06 guys, because the cats are smaller on those. The cat seemed to be what was in the way on my stock LS3 manifolds.
I'm wondering if the folks who were able to get the starter out without removing the manifolds were all Z06 guys, because the cats are smaller on those. The cat seemed to be what was in the way on my stock LS3 manifolds.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 851
Likes: 390
To close the loop on this, the $25 starter solenoid that Dano recommended is installed and working as it should.
I know it's minor but it's kind of soured my experience with the car. I have over $10k worth of receipts for maintenance and upgrades over the years. I am really considering moving up to a C7 now, which was the first Corvette I drove and what I really wanted from the get-go. This car has given me a lot of experiences and I'm thankful for that but at a certain point I have to be real with myself and ask if I'll ever be happy with it or if I'll always have the C7 itch that I need to scratch.
I know it's minor but it's kind of soured my experience with the car. I have over $10k worth of receipts for maintenance and upgrades over the years. I am really considering moving up to a C7 now, which was the first Corvette I drove and what I really wanted from the get-go. This car has given me a lot of experiences and I'm thankful for that but at a certain point I have to be real with myself and ask if I'll ever be happy with it or if I'll always have the C7 itch that I need to scratch.