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Dropping the car off at a local shop next week to most likely have the rack pulled and sent off for a rebuild. From what I understand it’s a pretty big job. Any tips or must do’s that I can pass on to the mechanic? I talked to him the other day and I don’t think he has ever done a rack swap on a C6 so any info I can pass along to him would be appreciated. I refuse to take it to a dealership because I don’t trust them.
The reason I’m asking on here is because I remember reading something about a sync or relearn after the rack is install, as well as a rack bearing preload adjustment. I just wanna make sure it’s all done correctly. Thanks guys
I’m sure he has access to Service Information whether Alldata or Mitchell so if your mechanic can read he should know what is to be done…any special instructions would be pointed out in that Service Info…you shouldn’t have to tell him..if you think he may be incompetent look for another mechanic !!
I’m sure he has access to Service Information whether Alldata or Mitchell so if your mechanic can read he should know what is to be done…any special instructions would be pointed out in that Service Info…you shouldn’t have to tell him..if you think he may be incompetent look for another mechanic !!
Im sure he does and he seems like a knowledgeable mechanic. Just wanted to help in any way I could and I figured there were some members who have replaced their own racks and might ofter some tips.
I had removed my rack when did my cam and lifter install late last year. 2011 GS. It really isn't difficult. Need to disconnect the two power steering lines from the rack. Remove the steering shaft bolt and disconnect the shaft. Remove the two bolts holding the rack to the subframe. Disconnect the outer tie rods at the nuckles. Remove the bolts and bracket holding the ABS module to give some room for the rack. And then pull the rack out the side through the wheel well. Just need to be careful to not snag on any lines. I didn't do any kind of relearn on the rack that I can recall.
It is really not to bad of a job. Just a bit annoying as there is quite a lot of stuff in that area so it's a bit tight working in there.
But I want to say that it took me less than 2 hours to get it out.
I had removed my rack when did my cam and lifter install late last year. 2011 GS. It really isn't difficult. Need to disconnect the two power steering lines from the rack. Remove the steering shaft bolt and disconnect the shaft. Remove the two bolts holding the rack to the subframe. Disconnect the outer tie rods at the nuckles. Remove the bolts and bracket holding the ABS module to give some room for the rack. And then pull the rack out the side through the wheel well. Just need to be careful to not snag on any lines. I didn't do any kind of relearn on the rack that I can recall.
It is really not to bad of a job. Just a bit annoying as there is quite a lot of stuff in that area so it's a bit tight working in there.
But I want to say that it took me less than 2 hours to get it out.
Okay good maybe the labor charge won’t be too bad. Before I drop the car off and go through all this with potentially having the rack rebuilt I have to wonder if tire wear could now be what’s causing my issue. At first the car pulling right was a different issue because my tires were brand new, but I drove it for a good while like that and now that the car is supposedly perfectly aligned I wonder if the uneven tire wear could be to blame?! I swapped sides on the tires and if it were the tires then changing sides should cause the car to drive differently, should it not?!
Okay good maybe the labor charge won’t be too bad. Before I drop the car off and go through all this with potentially having the rack rebuilt I have to wonder if tire wear could now be what’s causing my issue. At first the car pulling right was a different issue because my tires were brand new, but I drove it for a good while like that and now that the car is supposedly perfectly aligned I wonder if the uneven tire wear could be to blame?! I swapped sides on the tires and if it were the tires then changing sides should cause the car to drive differently, should it not?!
If it were the tires, it should cause the car to pull to the opposite side after the switch and it doesn't.
I think it likely the rack based on what you described when I talked to you.
If it were the tires, it should cause the car to pull to the opposite side after the switch and it doesn't.
I think it likely the rack based on what you described when I talked to you.
Yeah I think you are right man. I took the car back to the alignment shop the other day and they said the alignment is dead on and that nothing alignment related would cause the pull I’m describing. The tech also told me when he was pulling the car inside he could feel the difference in turning the wheel left vs right like i described.
I dropped the car off today at a local shop. Hes going to take a close look at everything up front with the car on the lift. I told him if he doesn’t find anything then go ahead and pull the rack. I’ll send it off to turn one to have it rebuilt.