Hey everyone, I’m needing some help on getting my fans to operate. I’m not sure why they won’t come on. I checked fuses and relay, and all is good. I unplugged the connector and it isn’t burnt like I’ve seen on youtube. I unplugged the controller and there isn’t water or no damage, and I checked to see if the fan works with jumper wires and a battery, it works. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

What leads you to believe that they are broke? Is it overheating, etc. Not sure if you know, or if you do, how you checked them for "normal" operation. Did you know that they (some have a single fan some might have two). come on/go off at specific Temps. Most of the t-stats are 195 degree (which is the temp at which a t-stat starts to open), which mean fans will come on later than that, A/C will also effect it. Our C6 has a single fan. A/c pressures will tell it when to come, trans. temp also, oil temp also and of course water temp. The computer will duty cycle the fan (goes on & off ) when it decides to operate it. Are you getting a warning light, check engine light Etc. I am NOT Corvette super Knowledgeable, But all cars operate the same with electric rad. fans. But some duty cycle (pulse on/off) some come on at a specific temp and go off at another, some have two fans One used mostly for water and the other for a/c but both can be made to come on at same time. Someone from here might have more info, but they will need to know - What is the symptom or problem, to help more. If you can come up on line with a service manual, in mine for our 2008 operation is explained in section 9 page 375. Suggest to all, a "Factory Service Manual" is a great idea for what ever you own and want to wrench on. If you have a scanner most of the better ones are bi directional, or they are able to (once plugged into diagnostic link) able to turn things on and off, with the touch of a button. And if it can turn something on then the computer can also, provided that a sensor is commanding it to do so.

 

It’s a good idea that we know at least what model year ??…which relay are you referring to ??

 

I unplugged it and used a battery with wire and connected the colors and it came on. It doesn’t overheat, but i’ve noticed after driving that they won’t come on . I’ve heard them before after maybe 15-20minutes, but now i don’t. It’s a 2013 with a single fan. The temp usually sits right before the middle, I’m guessing that’s maybe 190 degrees. No earnings lights or anything. I’ve also let it run in the driveway for maybe 30 minutes or so, and revved it between 2500 and 3k a couple times to try to get them to come on, but they didn’t.

 

It’s a 2013 grand sport, and the relay in the fuse box in the engine bay, its a 60amp yellow fuse.

 

Below are the conditions that will cause the fan to run and since it duty cycled controlled it will not be running at full speed…duty cycle varies from 10-90 percent so at 10% you probably won’t hear it…did you visually check the fan to see if it is coming on or are you just going by what you hear…the fan will come on if high side AC pressure is higher than 160 psi…if your outside temp is higher than around 60 degrees your pressure should be higher than 160 psi…I’m in Florida and my high side pressure is around 220 when I start the car with AC on and it doesn’t run fast enough for me to hear it inside the car…so if your outside temp is over 60 or you have a scan tool to look at high side pressure visually see if the fan is running…if not then you have to do some electrical troubleshooting…now at low speed the fan draws a little over 15 amps…have you removed the connector and performed some checks ??…did you check for at least power and ground ??…for the fan to run properly at low speed the ground has to be able to carry that 15 amps back to the battery but many DIY’ers don’t know what a ground circuit of a car does…all they know is if I put my red lead on power and black lead on ground my voltmeter works and I see 12 volts…I use different headlight bulbs of different amperages to “load” the ground and they range from 1 amp to 6 amps…if you don’t have a scan tool to read high side AC pressure or the electrical equipment to check a circuit I’d bring your car to an auto electric shop…also on the “speed control” wire with the fan not running you should see around 12 volts and if the fan starts running you will see a little over 7 volts on that wire…revving the engine won’t do anything unless the ECT reaches 204 degrees and at that temp you won’t hear the fan…did you check the fuse ??…the fuse is a J style fuse and if you remove it or can see through it does it look blown ??…maybe take it out and put an ohm meter across it…anytime I check a J style I always see if one leg of the fuse is hot depending if it’s a battery feed or with ignition on…even though the fuse may “look” good it might not be good.

 

The more performancy the vehicle, the more custom route & diameter wires are as fans become ever increasingly important and those wires and fuses are brought to the surface of the build for routine inspection, overcompensation

 

yes i visually checked, and it’s not running. i unplugged the coolant temperature sensor and the plastic looks like it’s rotted and was all cracked up, im guessing it’s from the heat of the engine and is old, i ordered a new one and i’ll replace it once it comes in. i can see inside the j style fuse and it’s not broken.

 

what do you mean?

 

I would seek out an auto electric shop and let them diagnose it.

 

MMmmmm the things you will be capable of imagination.

What occupies your mind while you drive or dream. With experience, the more oil and piston temperatures start to bubble just below at the surface interface of subconscious

A vision complete, of varying discrete elements , everything has a place, everything a signal, many known function and range of acceptable reliability for operation,

and it is done by your mind automatically without thinking about it, eventually