Since you are just having intermittent issues with just the "Keyless Entry" side of the RCLDR and not the Immobilizer side being the other you should check Pin H on the X1 connector...Fuse 11 (battery power) just powers the RCLDR for keyless entry...I would check for a spread terminal (terminal tension)...and there is a TSB for aftermarket stuff like LED' lights, radar detectors and this kind of junk interfering with these RF signals but this mostly for the Immoblizer function...if you need the RCDLR pinout I can provide that if you want to try to diagnose it yourself.

l

 

Thank you for the video!

No on getting accessory power. Current state is basically as if you walked out to your car without the fob and tried doing anything.

​​​​Side question, I did check to see that the fob cubby antenna was in place, it is. Do you have voltage specs available for testing that the connector is getting the proper power?

Thank you!

 

Normally what you would see on the backup antenna if everything is working ok is if you remove the connector and put your DVOM on AC voltage (not DC) and place red lead on the orange wire and the black lead on the orange/black…when you hit the start button you will see anything from .2 to .8 volts…I read .780 volts… if your DVOM has a min-max use that because that voltage comes and goes quickly…this AC voltage comes from the RCDLR…if your car isn’t doing anything you won’t see this…and with the FOB you can’t even get into the car ??

 

Thank you. Correct I currently have no working fobs as I believe they were cleared when the locksmith was attempting to reprogram. So i have to pull the cables to access the car. Once in the car and I hook the battery up (after doors have been opened by cable).. I can then come and go for for a bit. Once both doors are shut for a period of time, the doors won't open and if I pop the truck and pull the door cables the panic horn will alert. I believe this to be a normal function as if someone was gaining access to the car without a working fob. We arrived at this position due to reprograming failing to see the fobs. While waiting for another person to come with their scanner tomorrow, I'm trying to think of things to check.

​​​​​​I appreciate your time and thought process on this!

 

OK, I think you said you can’t even get the car in accy mode or “ignition on engine off” (green start light) so you may have trouble hooking up a scan tool but you can still program the FOB’s without the car being powered up through GM’s SPS software…I thing without power on the car you would just have to manually enter the VIN…you can subscribe to Alldata DIY for a month and get all this Service Info for FOB programming…once you get the FOB’s working you can go from there.

 

Have a guy here with a big snapon scanner. Experienced guy. He can see all vehicle data. Can communicate with the RCDLR BUT he says the RCDLR is "locked". Car won't kick off the fob programming, won't put a message on the DIC. Talked a tech at the GM dealer and they weren't any help other than "tow it in". With this information, any advice?

UPDATE.
Original fob is dead according to the fob testers we were able to locate. Even with two new batteries from separate sources. Batteries tested +3V. We believe that the first locksmith here didn't complete the programing due to the dead fob and has the RCDLR locked now as the current guy cannot make commands to the RCDLR to reprogram the replacement fob. Car still shows one fob is set.

​​​​​​Anyone know what components can be tested on the fob board itself as one of my employees is a micro-solder guy for surface mount components, with a microscope and other equipment at the ready. We are determined to get a working fob with parts still tied to the vehicle. Trying to avoid the dealership unless all routes fail.

Thank you for any insight and help.

 

voodoochikin04

I feel your pain. I have cars with Fobs and I don't use them, if possible ! I do have 2 C5's. The 2004 FRC Le Mans ZO6 FOg like to drive me crazy get it to operate after the battery replacement. The '98 de-badged IPC FOB got washed, I never liked the bulge in my pocket anyways.

However the C6 and other vehicles that is nearly impossible. Something I've just started to investigate re my current build.

I'm most familiar with GM electrics, esp Corvettes. I've got decades of working on my Vettes and friends, C1 to C6.

All Data was mentioned, a very excellent resource. I have accounts with All Data, a great source. I've always purchased the yearly subscription it's under $50 / year. They do allow printing or saving any info or doc's from their site. They do have very accurate Tech info and exactly how to program the FOB, pair the ECM - BCM et.c, and they've always been 100% accurate. Try the DIY link.

I've just started researching the C6 FOB and its mated RF Keyless Receiver. I've nearly completed the 2008 C6 ECM, BCM and RF Receiver wiring including exterior lighting, the Multi-function switch on the steering column and ETC. in my '37 build . So currently I need to get a clear understanding of the Security bypass and deletion of other modules. Gutting OEM 2008 ZO6 wiring harness and-wireing was a pita, but it will be less $$ and more reliable.

I've read several posts from track racers that have removed several models and systems form C6's and retained working ECM, BCM and the RF Keyless module, some without the anti-theft circuits. There's lots to learn. I'm just about to email All Data and see what addition If any doc's they have on troubleshooting, these two items. And I plan to PM a few racers that have had successful hacks to the C6 modules., to see what I can learn....

RE your post,,, I haven't read all of the replies "word for word" but here's 2 things that I always do first. This helps to rule out chasing a ghost , buying Parts that aren't needed. This might be a solution but I think it's a necessary starting point.

The 20 plus microprocessor modules in our loved Corvettes as all cars these days, Do have their electronic issues.

One thing I always need to know that is the battery in top condition and fully charged and do all of the "Modules" on the two data busses communicate properly !. If you have a new battery make certain it's fully charged. Programing anything with electrics you don't want a Voltage drop, nor operate or turn the Car ignition on whitest the battery is being charged.

First,, Before start again to troubleshoot this issue, I recommend to disconnect the battery for a few minutes. This allows all modules to completely discharge the DC Voltages. If there were any low cranking Voltages that were below the internal parameter limits in modules, this will allow them to power up properly if there not damaged.

Second,, Put a good scanner on the service port and scan all Modules. You don't need an expensive scanner for this. I've been through many scanners and I now use one that's $100 and I can read the results on my phone, it stores the data. So no need to get out my electronic gear out everytime I want a scan completed . If you need a suggestion send me a PM.

The completion of a complete scan will immediate let you know that all modules are operational, communication, any set codes, past Data communication collisions, and the history and any present codes in the ECM. Not all Codes set the "Check Engine Lamp" on the IP.

I'm happy to discuss anything with you be it here, PM or phone, As I'm doing the same

But I hope you get an subscription and read the factory TSR's, Technical Service Reports on this matter and the programming doc's as well.

Good Luck.

Michael...

 

When I went through my debacle with this issue, I found that the battery in the FOB needed to be above 3.2V to work consistently. Some new batteries are already at that threshold. I sourced some batteries that tested around 3.6V and they work great everytime but need to be replaced often. I started working on a remote 3.6V battery that would work well and go unnoticed on my keychain so I can use a larger battery than the button cell. I bought a cheap walmart FOB case so I can drill a small hole for the wire. The picture was my proof of concept, and it worked very well. Now I just need to make it "prettier." Another nice thing is, I don't have to split the FOB case to replace batteries. That being said, my other FOB has been working fine ever since I installed the higher voltage button cell so I haven't done much with this, it just drove me to the point of insanity when I was diagnosing it. Just goes to show you how crazy this problem can make a person.